What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[Tinstar]

OK but the one on Amazon is by OTC and they are a very good brand and I have used them before and they are the same quality as Snap-on, and it's up to you then.

If it works with no damage to new injector, doesn’t matter the brand.
I wasn’t even looking for snap-on, just looking for a good deal and lucked out.
Didn’t even know they made one until I saw them listed.

I do have some OTC spindle nut sockets. They are nice and well made.
Wouldn’t hesitate to buy that brand again.

 

[gottaluvit]

Yes, OTC is high quality!

 

[Volvo740turbo]

Found a civi 6.2 at the local yard, pulled the coolant cross over pipe to repair the broken one currently running on my truck...price was perfect at $3.99

 

[Tinstar]

Found a civi 6.2 at the local yard, pulled the coolant cross over pipe to repair the broken one currently running on my truck...price was perfect at $3.99

How much for the whole truck at the yard?

Would be great to have a parts truck.

 

[Volvo740turbo]

How much for the whole truck at the yard?

Would be great to have a parts truck.

They won't sell it like that

 

[Bighorn]

View attachment 703330

So here I was, a day off with 2 Blazers, a 267 Caterpillar Skid steer, and some tree stumps..
Oh yea, and all the parts necessary to swap the 12 bolt rear and Dana 44 front with 3.73 gears and lockers from my 1976 K5 into My 1986 M1009.
I know I started a thread about building the 10 bolt axles in the M1009.
Well, forget all that.
Decided I was being a dummy to pass up the most simple swap I could make and since I already put Yukon axles shafts, a No-slip locker and Spartan into the 12 bolt and Dana 44, why not just put them under my M1009 and do away with both the 3.08 and the gov-loc rear in one fell swoop.
So that is exactly what I did.
This might be the last good weather week of the year around here and Sunday morning at first light ; Rifle Hunting season begins up here and we are going to be busy with guests for 2 weeks.
So I used the skid steer to lift the back end of both Blazers, put some OSHA approved tree stumps under the frame rails, and tore the axles out of them.
I got the rears swapped today.
Only hiccups were the wheel cylinders on the 10 bolt were shot and since I still need that truck to haul the lodge garbage all winter, I got some replacements in town.
The only other differences between a 1986 GM 10 bolt out of a M1009 and a 1976 GM 12 Bolt out of a K5 Blazer;
The M1009's 10 bolt rear axle pinion yoke accepts an inside clip 3R u-joint.
The 1976 K5 12 bolt rear axle pinion yoke accepts an outside clip 1310 series u-joint.
I kept the 3R pinion yoke on the 10 bolt and am using a 3R to 1310 conversion u-joint for my rust bucket 76 K5.
I installed a 1330 pinion yoke onto the 12 Bolt going into my M1009.
If you ever need to change a pinion yoke on an axle with a crush sleeve; fear not.
Don't believe all the junk about needing to remove the carrier, reset the pinion with a new crush sleeve etc.. that is not true.
I worked at a driveline shop and we routinely replace damaged pinion yokes and never once had a problem provided the pinion bearings were still in good shape.
Here is what you do;
Using and impact (in the case of a 12 bolt 1-1/8" socket) and a socket, zip the pinion nut off the pinion.
Remove the pinion yoke.
Remove the old pinion seal and replace it with a new one.
Install the new yoke (or the old one if you are just doing the pinion seal).
Now carefully drive the pinion nut back onto the pinion in small stages.
You just need to keep checking by pushing the pinion yoke in and out on the splines until it reaches zero clearance.
Now you do not want to crush the old crush sleeve any further.
So once you reach zero clearance you give the impact one blip.
Done.
Remember, pinion preload was set using brand new pinion bearings.
Once they are worn, there is almost no preload left.
You simply need to return the yoke to where it was when you removed it.

Tomorrow I will finish swapping the front axles.
Already know the banjo fitting on the calipers is different between the 76 and the M1009.
I will just leave the brake calipers hanging by a wire, out of the way while I swap the 10 bolt for the Dana 44.

3.73's should be a vast improvement coming up that 10% grade from town in the M1009 with the 6.2.
3.08's should help my rusty 76 K5 with it's 400 cu. in. small block slurp the gas a little slower.
See, I listen to advice on this forum.

 

[cucvmule]

They won't sell it like that

What yard is the truck in Volvo if you don't mind me asking. What year?

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Here is what you do;
Using and impact (in the case of a 12 bolt 1-1/8" socket) and a socket, zip the pinion nut off the pinion.
Remove the pinion yoke.
Remove the old pinion seal and replace it with a new one.
Install the new yoke (or the old one if you are just doing the pinion seal).
Now carefully drive the pinion nut back onto the pinion in small stages.
You just need to keep checking by pushing the pinion yoke in and out on the splines until it reaches zero clearance.
Now you do not want to crush the old crush sleeve any further.
So once you reach zero clearance you give the impact one blip.
Done.
Remember, pinion preload was set using brand new pinion bearings.
Once they are worn, there is almost no preload left.
You simply need to return the yoke to where it was when you removed it.

GM factory manuals say to check rotational resistance with a beam torque wrench or similiar, then when putting back together exceed the previous by 1-5 inch pounds, it's worked for me so far, but I've only ever touched 2 axles.



Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk

 

[Bighorn]

GM factory manuals say to check rotational resistance with a beam torque wrench or similiar, then when putting back together exceed the previous by 1-5 inch pounds, it's worked for me so far, but I've only ever touched 2 axles.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk

Yes, and thus the "blip" of the impact.
Yes, you should always use an inch pound torque wrench but that spec involves removing the axle shafts and carrier.
Are you going to do that?
It is completely unnecessary and really; there is no "magic" going on here.
What the engineers are saying is to replace the yoke "good and tight", but they need to put a value on that.
For new bearings it is 18 inch pounds.
For worn bearings 5 inch pounds.
For the average Joe; zero clearance and then one blip of the trigger on the impact.

 

[Chaski]

Yes, and thus the "blip" of the impact.
Yes, you should always use an inch pound torque wrench but that spec involves removing the axle shafts and carrier.
Are you going to do that?
It is completely unnecessary and really; there is no "magic" going on here.
What the engineers are saying is to replace the yoke "good and tight", but they need to put a value on that.
For new bearings it is 18 inch pounds.
For worn bearings 5 inch pounds.
For the average Joe; zero clearance and then one blip of the trigger on the impact.

Personally I only use an impact to break stuff. One of two things happen with an impact, it breaks free or it breaks in half.

I measure preload before and after with an inch pound wrench.

 

[Bighorn]

Personally I only use an impact to break stuff. One of two things happen with an impact, it breaks free or it breaks in half.

I measure preload before and after with an inch pound wrench.

So new pinion bearing preload is set to 18 inch pounds in an empty case.
That is with only the pinion, pinion bearings, crush sleeve and seal installed.
So you are saying that you remove both axles shafts, and the differential carrier to retorque your pinion each time?
You realize the ring and pinion, carrier bearings, axle bearings and seals cause resistance right?
When GM specs out that 5 inch lb torque spec for used pinion bearings it is without those other items in the case.
So for a $9 pinion seal replacement, to do what you suggest would also entail draining the diff, removing the carrier and axle shafts.
I am saying that in the real world this is unnecessary.
In fact, if you are not removing those items before checking pinion torque, you are most certainly under torquing your pinion bearings anyways.

 

[Chaski]

So new pinion bearing preload is set to 18 inch pounds in an empty case.
That is with only the pinion, pinion bearings, crush sleeve and seal installed.
So you are saying that you remove both axles shafts, and the differential carrier to retorque your pinion each time?
You realize the ring and pinion, carrier bearings, axle bearings and seals cause resistance right?
When GM specs out that 5 inch lb torque spec for used pinion bearings it is without those other items in the case.
So for a $9 pinion seal replacement, to do what you suggest would also entail draining the diff, removing the carrier and axle shafts.
I am saying that in the real world this is unnecessary.
In fact, if you are not removing those items before checking pinion torque, you are most certainly under torquing your pinion bearings anyways.

Personally before I tear it apart I would measure the force in inch pounds required to turn the pinion with everything together and note it. Then tear it down, replace the seal and reinstall tightening the pinion nut until the force needed to turn the pinion with everything together is a few inch pounds more than it was pre-op. Kinda an apples to apples check. Several manuals have a pre / post torque check like this for pinion seal replacement. Nothing extravagant, does not take more than a few minutes. Totally real world. I would also say that I have only worked on the larger 14 bolt / Dana 60 / AAM 11.5”.

I know there are different methods, but I prefer ones that are repeatable.

 

[Volvo740turbo]

What yard is the truck in Volvo if you don't mind me asking. What year?

I didn't even notice the year...i just saw it and looked under the hood and there was a 6.2....

Originally I was looking for a overflow tank for the radiator..that part wasn't the same...ob it was also a suburban

 

[Tinstar]

Installed second CUCV air cleaner assembly sent to me by a SS member.
Original was cracked, almost in half.
All is good now!!!

 

[computer54]

Looks good and thank you.

 

[Bighorn]

View attachment 703414
Installed second CUCV air cleaner assembly sent to me by a SS member.
Original was cracked, almost in half.
All is good now!!!

Your engine bay is spotless!
Motivates me to do some cleaning to mine before freeze up.

Today I finished the axle swap between the 76 K5 and my 86 M1009.
View attachment 703424
It was immensely helpful to have a way to lift the body to allow clearance to reach the axle u-bolts with an impact wrench.
Learned a lesson..
Dana 44 and 10 bolts will swap with the following caveats;
The Dana 44 axle u-bolts and plates are slightly smaller than the 10 bolt parts.
Unfortunately I put the larger 10 bolt u-bolts on the Dana 44 and only realized my mistake when I went to put the Dana 44 u-bolts on the 10 bolt.. no go.
M1009 Brake calipers have a knob of iron that interferes with a direct bolt on to a Dana 44 backing plate.
Out came the grinder wheel and all fits just fine.
View attachment 703423
Here is the nub that must be ground down to allow a gm 10 bolt front brake caliper to fit a Dana 44 backing plate.
The brake line banjo fittings are different sizes between a 1976 Dana 44 and a 1986 GM 10 bolt.
So I hung the calipers out of the way when I swapped the axles, never having to touch the front brake hydraulic systems at all.
I had to replace the rear wheel cylinders of the M1009's 10 bolt even though it is going into my junker 76 K5.
It is against my religion to put worn out brake parts back into service.. even if I am getting rid of the truck next summer.

(Really wanted to keep those shiny(funny) M1009 calipers on the M1009 even though it has the Dana 44 front axle now).

I swapped the front springs between the 76 K5 and 86 M1009 too.
The M1009's were quite sacked out.
View attachment 703425
M1009 spring above, spring from my 76 K5 below.
I swapped the 76 springs into the 86 M1009 without trouble; both are 47" eye to eye.
Now my M1009 stands proud with a Dana 44 front 3.73 Spartan locker and a 12 Bolt rear 3.73 Powertrax No-Slip locker, Yukon high strength alloy axle shafts, and BFG KM2 33x10.5x15 tires.
3.73 gear ratio in the M1009 with 33" tires will spin my 6.2 about 300 rpm faster than stock at the same speed.
3.08 gear ratio now in my 76 K5 with 31" tires and the 400 cu in. gasoline goblin motor should bring my rpm down to a tolerable level and maybe.. just maybe I'll get better than 9 mpg.

Wow, I am really sore.
That was a lot of crawling around in the dirt for this old guy.
But, I am glad I didn't drop $2,000 on re-gearing and building the 10 bolt now.

Both rigs will benefit from the swap and it was almost free except for the conversion u-joint, a pair of rear brake wheel cylinders, and a pinion yoke for the 12 bolt in the M1009 to make it play nice with the driveshaft.
About $300 was spent to make this swap happen.
After I feed the guests I am going to take the M1009 for a spin down and back up the mountain to see how deeper gears feel.

 

[The FLU farm]

View attachment 703424

I thought you said that you used OSHA approved stumps. Mine doesn't look anything like yours.
Maybe there was a change in the rules after I got mine?

 

[Tinstar]

Boy I would love to have that skid steer!!

 

[Bighorn]

Boy I would love to have that skid steer!!

That is what I thought when we bought it 3 years ago.
I am the maintenance guy here at the lodge.
This 267 skid steer must have been used to move road salt at one time.
The first winter, while moving snow, the hydraulic fittings (not the rubber lines) blew out one by one so I finally changed them all, on the snow, at minus 20 degrees.
The cause was they were rusted from the outside inwards.
The next fall while moving 200 yards of fill dirt for a new septic system the bogey wheels one one side straight up fell off inside the track.
Rust again.
The throttle pedal broke off the floor pan due to rust.
2 of the main axles below the drive sprocket lost their bearings.. due to rust.
I grease the thing religiously but there is only so much you can do with a machine in this condition.

But, even with it's challenges, with a few hundred carbide studs in the tracks this thing can move snow!
Typically we get 200 inches of snow a year.
When it falls in 2 oe more feet per storm, it then needs to be cleared from the roof of the cabins and lodge else ice dams will form.
I use the skid steer to move the snow away.
Then I put the bucket up to the eave and climb over the top of the cab and into the bucket where I can pull snow down from the roof with a snow rake.
I can even climb onto the roof to bash ice dams out of the valleys and if i fall.. i slide into the waiting bucket instead of 30 feet to the frozen ground.
I groom the snow by back dragging around the lodge and between the cabins so snowmobilers can walk around (and all the loose snow doesn't end up inside the lodge).
Lastly, during the summer months, i move things around like rocks and stumps and firewood and.. M1009's.

 

[Tinstar]

We don’t get much snow anymore, but I would get a brush clearing attachment installed and start clearing land.

I just can’t afford one. Especially a CAT.
Oh well, I can dream.