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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

vanaisa

Well-known member
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Tallinn, Estonia
nono, they are white. I do not need red fog light.

Edit: did not installed them jet (too cold, too snowing) but tried one in dark. Man, i am impressed! wide lighting area and one sure can read book some 10...15 metres away. Highly recommend, if those available in your side:

 
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SomeNewGuy

Member
59
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Location
VA
Took the truck on its first 3+ hour dive.
75mph on the highway no issue, after return this all fluids, bolts, ect are still good to go.

Only downside is passing other vehicles is typically reserved for downhill lol
 

LT67

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93
Location
Bowdon, GA
Took the truck on its first 3+ hour dive.
75mph on the highway no issue, after return this all fluids, bolts, ect are still good to go.

Only downside is passing other vehicles is typically reserved for downhill lol
The trucks generally never pass anyone lol
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
I washed it and cleaned the interior and all the glass inside and out. I can actually see now!

Most of the factory paint is gone off the wheels and has a surface rust patina. Debating to repaint wheels or leave alone.
Body needs a repaint but doubt if it ever gets one.
If you ever go to sand and repaint that truck you will need 10 rolls of 80 grit sand paper. That truck has excellent corrosion protection with the 2 coats of CARC that are on it. But if you were to want a repaint of the entire truck you would be sanding forever. The days are gone when you find a chemical stripper to penetrant CARC. CARC is chemical agent resistant coating and it wears out a 5" 80 grit DA sanding pad in less then a minute. I have sanded down several of the double coated CARC trucks and it may be me but Black sands the hardest and then Brown comes in a close second in 3 color woodland painted CARC. Desert 686 TAN CARC just sands hard the whole way. But on the flip side I painted a few cab floors in CUCV's with 3 coats of CARC and it stayed the course for several years. That was the 3 part chemical CARC. The water base CARC is also very durable and easier to use, and clean up. Imagine cleaning a paint gun with a garden hose and water. Good times. Take Care and Be Safe.
 

flyfishtrailer

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Location
Cool, CA
And so it begins.......


IMG_9257.jpg
Drivers side and a replacement

IMG_9258.jpg

Passenger side



The driver's side didn't look too bad stacking up against the replacement, but the passenger side was really bad.....This is going to be a long weekend. The boys and I are going to change out the water pump and fuel pump, change out motor mounts, r/r all engine gaskets (exhaust manifold, intake manifold, valve cover gaskets) and the front rear main seals. Hopefully we will have it all done by Monday.
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
And so it begins.......


View attachment 856540
Drivers side and a replacement

View attachment 856541

Passenger side



The driver's side didn't look too bad stacking up against the replacement, but the passenger side was really bad.....This is going to be a long weekend. The boys and I are going to change out the water pump and fuel pump, change out motor mounts, r/r all engine gaskets (exhaust manifold, intake manifold, valve cover gaskets) and the front rear main seals. Hopefully we will have it all done by Monday.
It is not my truck. But the stock CUCV exhaust manifolds did not have gaskets. And a word of advise. If they are not leaking do not mess with the exhaust manifolds. They are good if they are not leaking. Same as the intake manifold. It has no fluid in it and unless you are going to change the injection pump you had best leave the intake attached. it is an air intake only. Do as you wish. But you are disturbing things that need no disturbance. Good Luck. Do all the gaskets that seal liquid and you will be good. Pay attention to the rear main seal. That should also be changed. But again I caution going wild and changing seals and gaskets that have minor or no leaks.
 

flyfishtrailer

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Cool, CA
It is not my truck. But the stock CUCV exhaust manifolds did not have gaskets. And a word of advise. If they are not leaking do not mess with the exhaust manifolds. They are good if they are not leaking. Same as the intake manifold. It has no fluid in it and unless you are going to change the injection pump you had best leave the intake attached. it is an air intake only. Do as you wish. But you are disturbing things that need no disturbance. Good Luck. Do all the gaskets that seal liquid and you will be good. Pay attention to the rear main seal. That should also be changed. But again I caution going wild and changing seals and gaskets that have minor or no leaks.

Thank you...someone has been in this engine before then as we found exhaust manifold gaskets on it (one was leaky and ticking). We got really lucky as all of exhaust the bolts came out without issue (or breaking). We do have some leaks from the valve covers and need to get them off. I agree that if it's not an issue to leave them, but we may need to remove injector lines to get to the valve covers. The motor mounts we got are not correct so we are stuck with out being able to finish the top of the engine stuff until we locate the correct motor mounts. The ones we got at the auto parts store have the bolt holes about 1/2 inch wider and don't line up with the factory holes.
 

ezgn

Well-known member
650
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93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
Thank you...someone has been in this engine before then as we found exhaust manifold gaskets on it (one was leaky and ticking). We got really lucky as all of exhaust the bolts came out without issue (or breaking). We do have some leaks from the valve covers and need to get them off. I agree that if it's not an issue to leave them, but we may need to remove injector lines to get to the valve covers. The motor mounts we got are not correct so we are stuck with out being able to finish the top of the engine stuff until we locate the correct motor mounts. The ones we got at the auto parts store have the bolt holes about 1/2 inch wider and don't line up with the factory holes.
Off Road Design has competition motor mounts, they do both sides for $170.00 remove the old ones, discard everything and replace them with this much better system. More money, better product, less hassle, and guaranteed fit. sku # GU32003
 

flyfishtrailer

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Cool, CA
So, we went to AutoZone to return the motor mounts. We asked about looking at any mounts they had in stock for 80's Chevy trucks. The guy had mounts for an 82 1 ton truck and they had some in stock. The guy brought one out and we compared that to the old one from my CUCV.....exact fit. Weird that the factory mounts were from and 82 and not an 84
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Honestly it has been my experience that they were from a 1983 350 gas engine. I was told by a reliable source that the prototypes were 1983 and the military approved the build. I always questioned that because 1983 has the dimmer switch on the floor for the headlamps and the wipers switch on the dash cluster. That smart stalk was a newbie to the GM truck line in 1984. No rhyme or reason. It is what it is. Be Safe, I am glad you got this handled. Crazy stuff spending $170 on a set of motor mounts. I squawk at buying the Energy Suspension. But they are a requested item from customers all the time. Be Safe and Have Fun.
 

LT67

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Location
Bowdon, GA
No work on either of the M1008 trucks at the moment, but the shop ordered a new AC compressor for the 86 M1008 and it never showed up. So the shop ordered another one again.

Anyone else having shipping issues with parts or anything else? I know everybody is short handed at the moment, but dang👿
 

flyfishtrailer

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Location
Cool, CA
No work on either of the M1008 trucks at the moment, but the shop ordered a new AC compressor for the 86 M1008 and it never showed up. So the shop ordered another one again.

Anyone else having shipping issues with parts or anything else? I know everybody is short handed at the moment, but dang👿

The missing one was probable taken from the train in LA...have you guys seen that mess??
 

dougco1

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Cooperstown NY
…..the pictures made it to germany!
Off topic but-

I'm ashamed of those photos coming out of LA., and to have them sent all over the world like that. I guess that just sells more papers.
It must make America look like a lawless, nasty, dirty, and lazy country to the rest of the world.
No way do those photos represent the vast majority of the citizens nor the communities that we all love, cherish and live in.
 
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Mullaney

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Off topic but-

I'm ashamed of those photos coming out of LA., and to have them sent all over the world like that. I guess that just sells more papers.
It must make America look like a lawless, nasty, dirty, and lazy country to the rest of the world.
No way do those photos represent the vast majority of the citizens nor the communities that we all love, cherish and live in.
.
Yes sir. I cannot quite understand how that is acceptable behavior - and how the law isn't being enforced. Guess that is enough about it, but like other comments: That isn't how most of us were raised...
 

TechnoWeenie

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Nova Laboratories, WA
So, I did a ghetto fix....

So, I didn't know why I was losing prime after sitting overnight.. turns out it's the throttle shaft seal .... and I toasted a starter after trying to crank so long.

I don't have the time/money to replace the IP right now, and there's no point in doing 80% of the work in replacing one, just to leave it in.. because you gotta do 80% of the work to get the IP out, just to replace the throttle shaft seal...and if the seal is bad, the pump probably isn't too far behind..

So, I did what the only self-respecting redneck would.

I dun fixd it.

I installed a low pressure diesel pump, tied to the glow plugs... So, when glow plugs turn on, pump turns on, and primes the system and pushes out the air... allowing it to start with zero issues.

Yeah, I still have a dripping leak at the IP, but in doing the math, it's something like half a gallon per tank that's dripping out.. so, not enough to even worry about... and beats dumping $1500 into something..
 

Mullaney

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Supporting Vendor
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Location
Charlotte NC
So, I did a ghetto fix....

So, I didn't know why I was losing prime after sitting overnight.. turns out it's the throttle shaft seal .... and I toasted a starter after trying to crank so long.

I don't have the time/money to replace the IP right now, and there's no point in doing 80% of the work in replacing one, just to leave it in.. because you gotta do 80% of the work to get the IP out, just to replace the throttle shaft seal...and if the seal is bad, the pump probably isn't too far behind..

So, I did what the only self-respecting redneck would.

I dun fixd it.

I installed a low pressure diesel pump, tied to the glow plugs... So, when glow plugs turn on, pump turns on, and primes the system and pushes out the air... allowing it to start with zero issues.

Yeah, I still have a dripping leak at the IP, but in doing the math, it's something like half a gallon per tank that's dripping out.. so, not enough to even worry about... and beats dumping $1500 into something..
.
Gotta sometimes work a little red neck magic...

:cool:

RedNeckEnginuity.jpg
 
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