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What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today

Phoenix77

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Greenville, NC
Disproportionately large cargo bed LED light bar connected, wires run for rear camera, just need to find the mount and connect the wires under the truck.

While I was running wires up over the windshield, I figured I'd go ahead and do dual USB outlets on each side of the front of the cab. I plan on mounting 12v swivelling dual fans that plug into USB on the cab ceiling on both sides for comfort. Power for them comes from the 30 cal power center, so with one (1) main switch I can turn off all accessories.

Headed to the NC mountains for a long weekend with my wife & daughter, so I have to tear myself away from the project til next week...

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Phoenix77

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93
Location
Greenville, NC
Also, I need to trim the flared sides of the ammo can to go straight across the front & rear to not overlap the switch panel on the front and also reduce the amount of travel required to get the lid in a position to be disconnected from the can to not hit the windshield.

The remaining dangling wires are for the stereo - two (2) speakers on each side of the cab, plus the power from the 30 cal can to the head unit.

I relocated the diagnostic port to the side of the console adjacent to the CTIS in order to accommodate using another 30 cal can as the mounting host for the head unit. I'm going to check clearance, but I'm contemplating using a 50 cal can if possible so it could double as a glove compartment (plus I have dozens of 50 cal cans and only two (2) 30 cals left 🙁 ).
 
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Godspeed131

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Knoxville, TN
Finally got around to finishing out the new door panels on the truck. When I got the truck the drivers side had the the plastic panel with the “Christmas tree” push fasteners half missing and no window regulator handle. The passenger side had no panel no outside door handle and no hardware at all except the latch with some para cord for a latch unlock handle lol. So I had gathered everything and finally put it all together this past weekend. I used the old panel as a template and fabricated new panels out of the same sheet of aluminum I used for the dog ramp in another thread. Got the inside door latch handles and window cranks from suprman. Installed rivnuts in the doors and flanged button headed screws to better hold it all than the push pins. Replaced the factory inside grab handle with the ones from midwest military equipment. While I did all that I replaced both outside door handles with new paddle style handles from trimark. Didn’t get a outside picture of the drivers side but it mirrors the passenger handle. All in all I’m very pleased how it all came out.
 

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SCM35A2

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Florence, SC
Disproportionately large cargo bed LED light bar connected, wires run for rear camera, just need to find the mount and connect the wires under the truck.

While I was running wires up over the windshield, I figured I'd go ahead and do dual USB outlets on each side of the front of the cab. I plan on mounting 12v swivelling dual fans that plug into USB on the cab ceiling on both sides for comfort. Power for them comes from the 30 cal power center, so with one (1) main switch I can turn off all accessories.

Headed to the NC mountains for a long weekend with my wife & daughter, so I have to tear myself away from the project til next week...

View attachment 840796View attachment 840797View attachment 840798View attachment 840799View attachment 840800
Great looking progress! Was wondering where you got you switch/control panel from that controls all your accessories??
 

Mullaney

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Charlotte NC
Finally got around to finishing out the new door panels on the truck. When I got the truck the drivers side had the the plastic panel with the “Christmas tree” push fasteners half missing and no window regulator handle. The passenger side had no panel no outside door handle and no hardware at all except the latch with some para cord for a latch unlock handle lol. So I had gathered everything and finally put it all together this past weekend. I used the old panel as a template and fabricated new panels out of the same sheet of aluminum I used for the dog ramp in another thread. Got the inside door latch handles and window cranks from suprman. Installed rivnuts in the doors and flanged button headed screws to better hold it all than the push pins. Replaced the factory inside grab handle with the ones from midwest military equipment. While I did all that I replaced both outside door handles with new paddle style handles from trimark. Didn’t get a outside picture of the drivers side but it mirrors the passenger handle. All in all I’m very pleased how it all came out.
.
I like your new outside handles and the new interior panels too! Nice!

Guess I am cheap, but I bought a bag of those "christmas tree" panel holders and mine is sooo much better. I was like you on the inside... No handles on mine either and Suprman fixed me up too. Will is a heck of a nice guy and an incredible source for LMTV parts! I have purchased thing several things from him and it amazes me how quickly his stuff arrives. No moss gathering on him for sure!
 

Godspeed131

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Location
Knoxville, TN
.
I like your new outside handles and the new interior panels too! Nice!

Guess I am cheap, but I bought a bag of those "christmas tree" panel holders and mine is sooo much better. I was like you on the inside... No handles on mine either and Suprman fixed me up too. Will is a heck of a nice guy and an incredible source for LMTV parts! I have purchased thing several things from him and it amazes me how quickly his stuff arrives. No moss gathering on him for sure!
I probably would have went back with the push pins again but the passenger side had already had the rivnuts installed so I just made both sides match. New the push pins do hold very well unless you have to remove them a few times and even the other variant that expand when you push the center pin in even get loose after a few removals.
 

Phoenix77

Well-known member
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543
93
Location
Greenville, NC
I probably would have went back with the push pins again but the passenger side had already had the rivnuts installed so I just made both sides match. New the push pins do hold very well unless you have to remove them a few times and even the other variant that expand when you push the center pin in even get loose after a few removals.
On my M1078, "Atlas", I decided push pins were inferior and installed rivnuts.

On my M1081, "Achilles", I decided push pins are fine. Installing the 6" speaker in the door cinched in the area prone to rattle, so I didn't see the benefit to rivnuts other than piush pins are annoying to remove. I kept the panels off until I scratched all the itches with the interior of the doors - install speakers, do sound insulation etc., so I don't foresee a need to revisit the internals again.

BTW, you can get a 200 count pack of the push rivits for $9 on Amazon, so by all means, DO NOT buy them at your nearest auto parts store at ~$6 for a pair. They're the 7.6mm width ones on Amazon.

And some self-adhesive foam window insulation from Lowe's etc. between the panel and the sheet metal will eliminate rattle. Inexpensive solution and less than buying a rivnut tool if you don't have one.
 

BERZERKER888

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Location
Daytona, FL
after aging 30 years in a vain attempt to chase down the source of my vampire draw..... like Simone Biles.. .."I quit"...

battery disconnect /Battery Tender installed...

big thanks to Ronmar, Wheelspinner and Suprman for thier guidence. And a big thanks to fellow gym rat "Tony" who is a EE at Deltran the makers of everything Battery Tender for hooking me up with their latest/greatest equipment20210730_132257.jpg
 

Third From Texas

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Location
Corpus Christi Texas
after aging 30 years in a vain attempt to chase down the source of my vampire draw..... like Simone Biles.. .."I quit"...

battery disconnect /Battery Tender installed...

big thanks to Ronmar, Wheelspinner and Suprman for thier guidence. And a big thanks to fellow gym rat "Tony" who is a EE at Deltran the makers of everything Battery Tender for hooking me up with their latest/greatest equipmentView attachment 841030
That's a clean looking power port. Link?
 

BERZERKER888

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Daytona, FL
Amazon special rated at 500amps,... as for the mounting, I had some 16 or 14 guage steel plate laying around , cut a square @84mm x 84mm.. notched the center to accommodate the posts, drilled 4 holes in the corners, 4 more holes in the sides of the battery box and it fit like a champ. Cut the main ground wire, added 2 double aut 3/8 battery lugs a few inches of shrink wrap...boom ..done in 60 minutes..
 

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Third From Texas

Well-known member
2,765
6,494
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Amazon special rated at 500amps,... as for the mounting, I had some 16 or 14 guage steel plate laying around , cut a square @84mm x 84mm.. notched the center to accommodate the posts, drilled 4 holes in the corners, 4 more holes in the sides of the battery box and it fit like a champ. Cut the main ground wire, added 2 double aut 3/8 battery lugs a few inches of shrink wrap...boom ..done in 60 minutes..

Ah, that's the switch receptacle. I was thinking it waas a power port for aa charger. LOL

Thanks
 

chucky

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Location
TN .
I finally put 2 of the 6 new to me xmls on today then 2 tomorrow then 2 complete dismount and remount for the steer tires that ought to put me in a wheel chair lol
 
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