I can now close out two major projects on my M1081! About three weeks ago, I finally installed 3.07 diffs, with an Eaton locker in the rear.
Installing the Eaton into the rear diff was simple other than running out of Lock-Tite!
Rear diff notes: In replacing the rear drive shafts, I had to jack one tire and cage it's brakes to rotate the hub and align the splines on the shaft. That's because of the locker preventing free spinning of the hub and diff.
Front diff notes: I didn't disassemble the hub assembly, I removed it as a complete unit by pulling the king pins and lifting the entire hub assembly from the axle as a unit. Didn't have to disassemble/measure/reassemble front hubs. Used an engine hoist for lifting and moving. Was fiddly but I found a trick: The front drive shafts are also threaded like the rear shafts. I pulled the hub plug, put a threaded a piece of all-thread into the end of the shaft, put a 1" diameter, 18" long pipe nipple, washer, and nut on the end of the shaft. That gave me an excellent handle to manipulate the shaft when I was reinstalling the hubs and shafts.
Diffs are a very tight fit into the axle housings, but used an ATV lift with a few 2x4s to align the parts.
Kobalt battery impact did everything except the king pin bolts. Kudos on a powerful tool!
And today, I removed/rebuilt, and replaced the treadle/foot valve for the brakes. I had been getting venting from the vent in front of the radiator, and troubleshooting showed I was getting air bypassing the valve internally. I was able to remove the treadle valve but reaching into the dash assembly for the bolts was a real time-waster and PITA. I used air tool oil to lube all parts prior to reassembly. The valve itself is fairly simple, just nested parts, a few springs and e-clips. No more air venting when I'm not pressing the pedal.
Both jobs done solo. Just take time, use mechanical leverage and power tools. Much happier camper!