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Setting up for shortening the wheelbase on the m1078:
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What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today
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coachgeo
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Yes, will do. I am anxious to fire up the new magnetic drill motor with the core drills. The key will be go slow + steady flow of cutting fluid.
Third From Texas
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Wingnut13
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Mag drills are the best, and now with centerless cutters they are the berries. How about putting another steer axle in the rear?
coachgeo
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lol...... took the words right outa my mouth to you fingers quicker than I could ..
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Not exactly. I am, however, taking advantage of the chassis frame rails being the same dimension front to back. In principle, any of the suspended components can go anywhere along its length . The guys making deuce and 5-ton bobbers do it all the time.Turning it into a Pinz, eh?
I prefer to show what I have done rather than what I wish it to be, so all I can really claim is that I cut off a bunch of huck bolts
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I have seen the counter-steer setup on the 5-axle rigs, a straighforward implementation.
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Actually, Coachgeo, I will be using advice you gave to me back when I removed the bed, and I was lamenting how front heavy the truck is: "Put an engine block over the rear axle, that will help"......Stand by, like I say, I prefer to show results before saying too much. Haters ya know.....
coachgeo
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you could really confuse them and put another cab on the back facing rearward with a spare block with empty head under it...some dummy plumbing for the fun of it. You would have a MT-Push Me - Pull Ya
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You guys are getting warm....The weight of the cab on top of the engine on top of the axle = front heavy. The cab on the rear distributes the weight, eliminates heat load into the cab from the engine making it practical to air condition, dispenses with the cab tilt mechanisms, diminishes engine noise in the cab. The rear axle with the locking diff goes under the heavy engine, the steer axle to the rear under the newly positioned cab..
Yeah, now that would be fun!!
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Third From Texas
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But then wouldn't it be easier to just....
www.govplanet.com
1985 Oshkosh A/S32P-19A 4x4 Fire Truck
4x4, Cummins Turbo Diesel Engine, Automatic Transmission, Air Conditioning, Heater, 1,000 Gallon Water Tank, 130 Gallon Foam Tank, Water Cannon, Foam Cannon, Hose Reel, 445/80R25 Tires, 34,000 lb. GVWR
www.govplanet.com
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.But then wouldn't it be easier to just....
1985 Oshkosh A/S32P-19A 4x4 Fire Truck
4x4, Cummins Turbo Diesel Engine, Automatic Transmission, Air Conditioning, Heater, 1,000 Gallon Water Tank, 130 Gallon Foam Tank, Water Cannon, Foam Cannon, Hose Reel, 445/80R25 Tires, 34,000 lb. GVWR
I keep looking to own one of those... Problem is that the ones that I have found were a lot more money than that!
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The LMTV is paid for, its all labor cutting bolts/drill holes, the only expense I see is running new air/power steering/fuel line which I was doing anyway.But then wouldn't it be easier to just....
1985 Oshkosh A/S32P-19A 4x4 Fire Truck
4x4, Cummins Turbo Diesel Engine, Automatic Transmission, Air Conditioning, Heater, 1,000 Gallon Water Tank, 130 Gallon Foam Tank, Water Cannon, Foam Cannon, Hose Reel, 445/80R25 Tires, 34,000 lb. GVWR
All the air over hydraulic goes away as I deleted the kneeling capability, the spare tire deployment mechanism, the air bags go away, and the cab tilt capability goes away.
Wingnut13
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Yeah I was wondering if you were heading this way. You may be able to just flip the pumpkins over to reverse your direction? But the issue with that would be driveline angles get worse…. Maybe? I’m not close to a truck to look.
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Driveshaft angles change as the diffs are not centered and are biased toward the driver side. But then, that's what U- joints are for
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Or use a high pinion intermediate axle (I have an extra)No need to flip, just trade places front to back will make it run the "wrong" way which is the new right way.
Driveshaft angles change as the diffs are not centered and are biased toward the driver side. But then, that's what U- joints are for
First; understand that I’m a complete newbie with FMTV’s.
I was telling @Ronmar that since I got the truck the ABS light would periodically come on but if I shut the truck down for a few minutes and started back up it would go off.
I figured I had a fault in the ABS somewhere
For whatever reason, I decided to stop using the engine brake. As soon as I did that - no more ABS light.
RonMar & I discussed the issue and how it could happen but he hasn’t come across it yet.
For giggles I checked the PDP & fuses. The 30 amp CAT ECU fuse has a weak reset spring - the spring barely works. Other than the ABS light no other dash light came on. Since I stopped using the engine brake the ABS has not come back on.
I will engage the engine brake switch again to see if the ABS light comes back on - but I wanted to check around to see who has experienced this before I try the engine brake again.
So, has anyone else found a ABS light come on when the engine brake switch was on? If so, can you explain the reason & correlation?
I was telling @Ronmar that since I got the truck the ABS light would periodically come on but if I shut the truck down for a few minutes and started back up it would go off.
I figured I had a fault in the ABS somewhere
For whatever reason, I decided to stop using the engine brake. As soon as I did that - no more ABS light.
RonMar & I discussed the issue and how it could happen but he hasn’t come across it yet.
For giggles I checked the PDP & fuses. The 30 amp CAT ECU fuse has a weak reset spring - the spring barely works. Other than the ABS light no other dash light came on. Since I stopped using the engine brake the ABS has not come back on.
I will engage the engine brake switch again to see if the ABS light comes back on - but I wanted to check around to see who has experienced this before I try the engine brake again.
So, has anyone else found a ABS light come on when the engine brake switch was on? If so, can you explain the reason & correlation?