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What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today

MatthewWBailey

Thanks for this site. My truck runs great now!
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Oh yeah. The factory Red Dot AC system is the killer app for these trucks. That and ceramic window film (tinted or not). A1R's have better cab insulation as well and are quieter than older trucks. Honestly the only models worth looking for at this point - especially with prices having dropped or stayed stagnant in 2024.

View attachment 928781
Are those wheel Stud covers any good?
 

aw113sgte

Well-known member
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Location
La Crosse, WI
Oh yeah. The factory Red Dot AC system is the killer app for these trucks. That and ceramic window film (tinted or not). A1R's have better cab insulation as well and are quieter than older trucks. Honestly the only models worth looking for at this point - especially with prices having dropped or stayed stagnant in 2024.

View attachment 928781
While they are better in many ways, there are still very few that come up for sale. If you want a good quality m1079A1R, you're likely going to be waiting a while.
 

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
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Portland, OR
While they are better in many ways, there are still very few that come up for sale. If you want a good quality m1079A1R, you're likely going to be waiting a while.
Definitely requires patience. I've seen two for sale since I bought mine in 2021. When they do come up for sale there's actually not that many buyers lining up because most buyers are first-time buyers and don't understand the value or the high asking price so they pass them up for cheaper A0 and A1 trucks. There's three members on this forum - all of us have 2008 trucks so I guess they must have built a lot of '79's that year or something. Myself, @Third From Texas, and @AKPacker. An exclusive club for sure but it's also possible to build one with a C7 M1078 and the shelter from an older truck or a new habitat from Globe trekker, etc. It does drive up the price though it seems vs. finding an original truck. IMHO the A1R M1079 and M1087 are essentially THE best value in serious overland vehicle starting points out there. I don't know of anything this capable in their price range (~$40k - $50k).

A 3126b truck with a bad engine would be ideal also. C7 swap would be trivial (electrically). Wouldn't get the WTEC IV, or the other A1R upgrades but it would likely be a decent cost savings since a truck with an engine failure would weed out a lot of potential buyers.
 

AKPacker

Active member
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Anchorage, AK
Definitely requires patience. I've seen two for sale since I bought mine in 2021. When they do come up for sale there's actually not that many buyers lining up because most buyers are first-time buyers and don't understand the value or the high asking price so they pass them up for cheaper A0 and A1 trucks. There's three members on this forum - all of us have 2008 trucks so I guess they must have built a lot of '79's that year or something. Myself, @Third From Texas, and @AKPacker. An exclusive club for sure but it's also possible to build one with a C7 M1078 and the shelter from an older truck or a new habitat from Globe trekker, etc. It does drive up the price though it seems vs. finding an original truck. IMHO the A1R M1079 and M1087 are essentially THE best value in serious overland vehicle starting points out there. I don't know of anything this capable in their price range (~$40k - $50k).

A 3126b truck with a bad engine would be ideal also. C7 swap would be trivial (electrically). Wouldn't get the WTEC IV, or the other A1R upgrades but it would likely be a decent cost savings since a truck with an engine failure would weed out a lot of potential buyers.
My 1079 sat for sale for several months before I finally jumped on it, I was surprised and fortunate that it lasted that long considering how rare A1Rs are. But like you said it was probably passed over by a lot of folks because it had a high initial asking price of $55k and wasn't marketed very well (only on facebook with few/poor pictures). I feel like I got an absolute deal for the $32k I ended up offering.
 

MatthewWBailey

Thanks for this site. My truck runs great now!
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Mesa Colorado
look forward to video and/or write up on this. would be much appreciated
I'll throw together a thread with Ricks photos and these showcasing the big 3. Obviously there are numerous others at all the light connections. This topic is well commented going back to threads I've read from 2013. I fiddled with the cab ground today in my electrical troubleshooting travels and it looks as bad as the others. It's hard to tell from looking at this connection if electrical conductivity is even possible😳. CARC strikes again.
DF0517AA-A0A7-4650-AF08-D6E6A3022429.jpegB413E472-BC74-4DF3-B096-F394F2ACCD92.jpeg
 

MatthewWBailey

Thanks for this site. My truck runs great now!
Steel Soldiers Supporter
835
1,519
93
Location
Mesa Colorado
1st run test following new oil pump and oil cooler decking , exhaust reroute, and tons of overhaul. I'm exhausted. 38 days to get to this point. Luckily I have a regular job. Oil psi came up to 58 fast. No smoke out of exhaust, I guess that Atmospheric sensor is working. I used to get good smoke for a min or two.

 

fuzzytoaster

Well-known member
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Fort Worth, Texas
I thought the curb weight on these was just under 25,000#, 3,000# is a lot of what?
It's an A1R so it has the heavier coil over suspension and the HIAB crane in place of the Grove crane. There must be a lot more to the HIAB since it's a direct point lift crane. Also, I'm getting fat. rofl
 

MatthewWBailey

Thanks for this site. My truck runs great now!
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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93
Location
Mesa Colorado
Had the driveline balanced with some new spicer joints

Per the mech prior to work the front was fine but back was out View attachment 928518View attachment 928519
Got both mine back today. 3 new spicer joints and 1 Rockwell. Tech said they were "a little out". Anyone know the cap bolts' torque value? TM references shear bolts which I assume are not used anymore.
9E92BF79-5CB4-417F-8ED5-EBA20EC2E1A6.jpeg85D601C5-FA94-4597-94A5-B7B8B07AE286.jpeg20BAE91D-4F82-4891-A6BD-F8D914DF6FFE.jpeg42510654-A576-434F-8411-19D6992616DD.jpeg
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
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Location
North of Cincy OH
I had this M1093A1R in the back of my motor pool for a while and a customer inquired about it. Fresh batteries and a PBC (push button controller) and it rolled out of its hole. Minor issues to tend to but a MTV with factory A/C. Egads! I want A/C in my truck now.

View attachment 928745
PBC for what?
> How fast/far the passenger ejection seat works??
> remote for using like Full Size RC truck???
> rear steer?,
> Hydraulic Hopping??
 

MatthewWBailey

Thanks for this site. My truck runs great now!
Steel Soldiers Supporter
835
1,519
93
Location
Mesa Colorado
Got both mine back today. 3 new spicer joints and 1 Rockwell. Tech said they were "a little out". Anyone know the cap bolts' torque value? TM references shear bolts which I assume are not used anymore.
View attachment 929151View attachment 929152View attachment 929153View attachment 929154
Installed. Call me Colt's videos were a good prep.

Has Anyone tried/installed driveshaft loops yet? I see some cool ideas on 1/4mi race machines, some use a cradle bolted to the differential. Not sure what's best on these axles.
B9514E5B-2208-4285-BDBD-DF472B10216F.jpeg158B9667-E8E8-4187-82EB-4398572F4DC8.jpeg54B20FE4-A799-489B-A39F-1E9628B194F4.jpeg
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
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Location
Port angeles wa
Pulled my muffler for my “stack”, straight out the back:),
Re-arranged my air dryer and wet tank plumbing for the hydraulic pump and habitat box install…

have been thinking that some driveline hoops might keep a failed DS/U-joint from wiping out a transfer case…
 

MatthewWBailey

Thanks for this site. My truck runs great now!
Steel Soldiers Supporter
835
1,519
93
Location
Mesa Colorado
Pulled my muffler for my “stack”, straight out the back:),
Re-arranged my air dryer and wet tank plumbing for the hydraulic pump and habitat box install…

have been thinking that some driveline hoops might keep a failed DS/U-joint from wiping out a transfer case…
There's a plethora of designs out there. I'm partial to the idea of bolting it to the diff but wondering if that's wise (from a bolt interference perspective)
61DF4AD0-1117-4296-AF81-ED3928C18247.jpeg8EBB3972-5C6C-4F27-942B-6BAD2F4117B5.jpeg
 
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