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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Milcommoguy

Milcommoguy

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My two cents worth.... Try this with the split loom. Split loom to edge the hole. See picture to get the idea. Use a little extra length so that it is spring loaded into hole. Could add some silicone / RTV to hold it in place.

Everything work better with silicone, CAMO

IMG_6347.jpg
 
suzukovich

suzukovich

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twisted60 said:
Installed a battery cut off switch. Copied location idea from fellow member, worked out pretty good. Built the cables from some 1/0 welding cable I had left over from another project and soldered on the lugs.

View attachment 748329View attachment 748330View attachment 748331View attachment 748332

Just need to put some protection on cables going into battery box so they don't chafe.
Click to expand...
Glad it worked out. Just rember every once in a while spray with electronic parts cleaner. Also just renewed my tags 2020. So rumors of pulling tags false. Also rumor of closing loophole that I took advange of also false.

Sent from my SM-J727U using Tapatalk
 
shawnshumvee

shawnshumvee

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Janesville WI
twisted60 said:
Installed a battery cut off switch. Copied location idea from fellow member, worked out pretty good. Built the cables from some 1/0 welding cable I had left over from another project and soldered on the lugs.

View attachment 748329View attachment 748330View attachment 748331View attachment 748332

Just need to put some protection on cables going into battery box so they don't chafe.
Click to expand...
Nice Job! This idea was coming up next on my humvee project list. Nevertheless, Good work.
 
twisted60

twisted60

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Did a little body work today, she had a slightly damaged right front fender when I got her, only ding on her, so today I fixed her up. Before and after pics.IMG_4029.jpgIMG_4055.jpg
Little Rapco rattle can paint to finish her off, I'll sand out that small run and touch it up later.
 
R

rcamacho

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Bainbridge Island Wa





Fabricated full length x door hinge reinforcements. Adds some additional torsional rigidity to the doors in this area. Still way too much flex in the door structure for my sensibilities.

Shimmed the window rollers a tad with washers to take up some of the free play left/right and associated rattle. Wish I had a mill to manufacture custom fit rollers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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TOBASH

TOBASH

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Gear Report said:
lol
Um, yeah.
Stuck at zero RPM until I can get the stuck pistons moving.
Working on that as we speak... https://gear-report.com/p/6cb
Click to expand...
Might I suggest filling each cylinder with "Marvel Mystery Oil," and letting sit for 48 hours, maybe even a week. Also, boroscope is your friend.

This is what I did back in the day with old gull wing Mercedes and such [because the short blocks were unobtanium]. Then with glow plugs and injectors removed, crank the engine. If won't move, try a long bar on the crankshaft with waterpump and balancer removed.

Might be cheapest and fastest to replace with 6.5 turbo Diesel.

Was water in the engine due to direct entry through intake manifold, bad gaskets, or was it submersion???

If submerged, are pumpkins and axles dry? If there is water in the pumpkins and axles and electrics, you have some other issues to attend to.
 
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Gear Report

Gear Report

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TOBASH said:
Might I suggest filling each cylinder with "Marvel Mystery Oil," and letting sit for 48 hours, maybe even a week. Also, boroscope is your friend.
This is what I did back in the day with old gull wing Mercedes and such [because the short blocks were unobtanium]. Then with glow plugs and injectors removed, crank the engine. If won't move, try a long bar on the crankshaft with waterpump and balancer removed.
Might be cheapest and fastest to replace with 6.5 turbo Diesel.
Was water in the engine due to direct entry through intake manifold, bad gaskets, or was it submersion???
If submerged, are pumpkins and axles dry? If there is water in the pumpkins and axles and electrics, you have some other issues to attend to.
Click to expand...
The link I provided is where I update what has been done each day. Most of what you asked is in there.
But for convenience:
- cylinders were vacuumed, the cylinders and intake filled with 50/50 acetone/ATF yesterday.
- breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt did nothing. Afraid to put any more torque on that bolt. Oil pan is off now, so I can pry on the bottom of the connecting rods and crankshaft directly. Gonna spray the bottom internals with PB Blaster shortly in hopes that it complements the work being done by the AFT/acetone mix above the pistons.
- Considering a Turbo conversion. I hear it is a real PITA. Not sure I want to take that on right now. Maybe in a year or so. Too many other things on the list at the moment. If this engine won't cooperate, then I'm looking at a few options for a drop-in NA replacement.
- water due to missing air intake cap on a deep water fording equipped truck. So, no drain in the air filter.
- haven't checked the hubs, t-case, transfer case, etc. yet. On the list, but figuring out whether this engine has to be replaced or not is the highest priority. Once that decision is made I'll have time to dig into the other stuff on this list: https://gear-report.com/humvee-info-first-things-every-hmmwv-or-hummer-owner-needs-to-know
 
TOBASH

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Gear Report said:
- haven't checked the hubs, t-case, transfer case, etc. yet. On the list, but figuring out whether this engine has to be replaced or not is the highest priority. Once that decision is made I'll have time to dig into the other stuff on this list: https://gear-report.com/humvee-info-first-things-every-hmmwv-or-hummer-owner-needs-to-know
Click to expand...
I suggest the engine is toast and you're :deadhorse: !

Would you really trust an engine that has seized and rusted and cannot be spun with the main crankshaft bolt? Would you drive that engine on a 1000 mile camping trip off the grid, even if you get it to turn over with acetone and ATF?

BEFORE you get into this HMMWV for more $$$, you need to check electrics and axles and pumpkin cases and tranny and transfer case. You should check them now, NOT after you buy a new engine or invest more time in this one. A working engine with bad tranny, transfer case, pumpkins and bad axles is just as much a paperweight as a frozen engine.

MHO, YMMV. Just some friendly and well meant advice.

That is a beautiful looking rig, and I really hope you get to enjoy it.

T
 
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Gear Report

Gear Report

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TOBASH said:
...MHO, YMMV. Just some friendly and well meant advice.That is a beautiful looking rig, and I really hope you get to enjoy it.
T
Click to expand...
No worries. I am checking things as I go in order of priority and with overall condition and cost in mind. I'm not buying anything for this truck that I can't sell to get my money back out of if the whole thing turns to ****.
But, from what we have seen so far, the rest of the truck appears to be in great condition. I'm sure I'll find a few more issues, but so far, the more I dig through this truck the better I feel.
Now watch... I just jinxed it! lol
 
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