What now?? Fuel pump?

[HelluvaEngineer]

Thanks, very helpful. I'm way down here in GA so I'm not so sure how important the heater is. I've seen some filters with water separators, which might be important considering this truck has NO FUEL CAP! Just noticed that today. I'm not sure how the sensor is used.

Speaking of Chinese, I actually have a forged crank in my 383 that was manufactured in China. The machine shop was actually a little scared by how well finished it was. I haven't been super impressed by my Chinese mill and lathe, but I'm sure they can make some precision machine tools.

 

[doghead]

Merged your 3 threads, please continue your issues in this one thread.

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

Sounds good, thanks. Is there a cheat sheet for the fuel line sizes I should order if I'm re-doing everything from the tank to the big fuel pump?

 

[richingalveston]

the majority of the fuel line is metal, I would keep as much of the metal as possible. The front rubber line is formed to keep it away from the exhaust manifold,if you still have the mechanical fuel pump. The back rubber line is about 6 inches long. There is another short section of rubber on top of the fuel tank.

I would keep as much of the metal line as possible.

To replace the rubber you need about 3 ft of 3/8 fuel line.
get a mighty vac hand pump. plug one end of the line and pull a vacuum on it to see if it holds to check the metal lines for holes.

spend the money on an electric fuel pump and put It in line where the short rubber section is in the center. you can leave your mechanical pump in place If you want.

The electric fuel pump will push the fuel and you will see the fuel leaks instead of sucking air.

 

[firefox]

You can't go wrong getting the stanadyne fm100 filter kits from gimpyrob.

You should be able to get a fuel cap from someone here. Post a parts needed post. Don't put this off.

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

the majority of the fuel line is metal
I would keep as much of the metal line as possible.
To replace the rubber you need about 3 ft of 3/8 fuel line.

Ok, gotcha. Took some stuff off of the engine so I can finally see.

I'm going to go ahead and replace the fuel pump since I have one and I might as well if I'm doing the hose. There's very little rubber, except the short sections you mentioned. I'd like to replace it all, but I have a couple of questions.

1. I see two sizes of rubber. Larger to the filter (the 3/8?) and smaller to the FI pump (1/4 guessing?) The smaller hose looks OK but a few years old at least. Is it possible to replace this without removing the intake manifold? It looks like the hose clamp at least angles towards a space in the intake header.
2. Won't fuel run everywhere when I disconnect the metal line going to the pump?
3. There is a vacuum hose on top going from a diaphragm in the back of the engine to the pump area. It's in poor shape. What is this and do I just replace it with a fuel line, plastic reducer, and vacuum hose?
4. There's an electrical connector coming off the harness with duct tape on it. What did this go to??

 

[richingalveston]

1. I see two sizes of rubber. Larger to the filter (the 3/8?) and smaller to the FI pump (1/4 guessing?) The smaller hose looks OK but a few years old at least. Is it possible to replace this without removing the intake manifold? It looks like the hose clamp at least angles towards a space in the intake header.
2. Won't fuel run everywhere when I disconnect the metal line going to the pump?
3. There is a vacuum hose on top going from a diaphragm in the back of the engine to the pump area. It's in poor shape. What is this and do I just replace it with a fuel line, plastic reducer, and vacuum hose?
4. There's an electrical connector coming off the harness with duct tape on it. What did this go to??

1. you can get your hand into the valley of motor if you go from back drivers side (opposite of vacuum pump). a long screw driver will be needed to loosen hose clamp on hose at IP. it is difficult but can be done. you can remove intake to make it real easy but be careful with fuel line clamps.
2. best to remove fuel filter first. This will cause the lease amount of fuel to leak. but yes it will leak some, in the back of the motor valley there is a drain hole that will allow the fuel to drain onto the tranny then onto the ground. if fuel is not draining from valley the hole is plugged up.
3. The vacuum pump is on the back of the motor. It is needed for transmission shifting only. it has a line that connects to the vacuum pot on side of ip and then to the transmission. If tranny is shifting ok then these lines and pump are ok. I would still change with regular vacuum line to prevent future problem
4.put up pictures of electrical connection. not enough info to determine what it was.

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

4.put up pictures of electrical connection. not enough info to determine what it was.

Well, this is interesting. I just pulled the tape off. That looks like a diode stuck in that terminal.

 

[richingalveston]

that is the horn diode, it has problems sometimes and many people remove it. there is a thread I believe in stickies on how to remove

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

For the horn? Wow. This gets more interesting by the day. I imagine some needle nose pliers will remove it but obviously I know little about these trucks.

I whiffed on the fuel filter questions. Apparently the stock base has a heater and a water sensor, so sorry about that everyone. Still learning.

EDIT: this thread indicates that it's the water in fuel diode. How duct tape is the best way to protect it is beyond me. I also noticed previous owner dude apparently wired up a cigarette lighter (these didn't have them, right?) Good times.

Oh, that picture also answers my vacuum line question. The people at the 4 parts stores I went to today think I'm insane.

 

[richingalveston]

sorry, my bad. not the horn diode, it is the water in fuel circuit.
I had to look it up.
it is mentioned in the diode section of the stickies. (top two threads in cucv forum)

It can be removed.

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

I have some of the stanadyne fm100 filter kits. Ive sold over 100 to the folks here on SS and i am getting ready to put one on my civi 2000 chevy with the 6.5.

GR, I tried to PM you. I'd like to get the current price / options and possibly order one. Thanks.

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

Finally had a chance to change out the mechanical fuel pump today. Man, what a pain. It took me over two hours. Now I could probably do another in 30, but I did a couple of things wrong. To anyone else doing this:

1. Don't remove the pump plate on the engine unless you have to. I was having issues moving the pushrod away from the plate so I removed it. Avoid this. The only upside was it was easy for me to rotate the engine and confirm the rod was out of the way.
2. Get some extended needle nose pliers to avoid #1. I didn't have any and couldn't grab the pushrod well.
3. If you do remove the plate, when you put it back you need to put the upper big bolts in before tightening the lower ones. Just temporarily. I didn't do this and spent an hour cursing and wondering why the pump bolts wouldn't start in their threads. The plate can easily be off enough to screw it all up.
4. If you remove the plate you'll obviously need a new gasket. Luckily they seem to have them coded right at the parts store but I think any GM V8 fuel pump uses the same. Anyway just mentioning this because my pump didn't come with both gaskets (would have cost an extra $0.20 to make I guess.)
5. I had to leave the fuel hose off until after the pump was in place. There's so little space under it that the fuel line tends to push on the pump and make it difficult to install.

Frustrating. I hope my silicone seals after moving everything around 20 times. Thanks again for all the advice on here.

 

[german m1008]

......to 2.
Put some heavy grease on top of the rod and push it against the camshaft, the rod will stay there

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

Quick update. As of this morning the truck is finally running! Big thanks to gimpyrobb for the hook up on the FM100. It's a really nice unit. I may post a picture of the latest part number for the manual primer pump. I believe all of the FM100 stuff changed ownership a couple of years ago and you may see different manufacturer names and possibly part numbers. Anyway the manual pump makes a huge difference.

 

[firefox]

Please post part number, cost and who you purchased primer pump from.
Thanks!

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

Please post part number, cost and who you purchased primer pump from.
Thanks!

Southern Power Systems of Orlando
(407) 293-7971

Clarcor 29578. If you call Clarcor (think this is the same company as Stanadyne Filters, which is not the same as Standadyne anymore - ???)

$28.57. They will get you on the shipping, but apparently everyone does. All the places online wanted like $17 too to ship.