What to look for on GL

[AtomicHillbilly]

Hi all! First let me say hello and thanks for the great forum. I have been 'trolling' for a week or so, but this is my first post.

A few weeks ago I made the ill-fated mistake of searching 'military trailers' on Google. I was looking for a small utility trailer to use around the house for Home Depot runs, etc. I came across GovLiquidation (I know, I know joy of joys). I saw the M101A2 trailers and got hooked. I did some research, and ended up winning an auction last week. EUC has been sent to Battle Creek, so hopefully I'll be the proud owner sometime fairly soon. But hey, that's a different story for a different day. Keep your fingers crossed for me!!

All this would have been well and good and ended there, had I not seen the listings for M35's. The plot thickens. I've always liked military vehicles- my first being my dad's old M38A1 that I never could quite get running (I was 16 at the time- go figure). Since then I've had a CJ-5, a CJ-7, 2 XJ's, and my newest baby- a 2006 H3. I'm single, with a decent job and a little leftover spare dough from the First Time Homebuyer credit. Not a good combination for sane financial planning decisions, but I can justify it by thinking it will help get the chicks. (it will riiight?? right??)

In short, I am thinking of placing a bid or two on GL. I would look at private sellers, but I'm cheap. I am fairly mechanically inclined (I've had two CJs, remember) but would just like some input as what to look for or avoid on GL. I feel sure I can fix most anything eventually, but the main thing is to buy a truck which will run at least long enough to get home (east TN, btw). Is it pretty much requisite to preview the trucks? Do most of them at least run? I know some of the GL listings say so, but some of the ones currently listed in TX just say 'operating condition unknown'. Is this laziness on the part of the auctioneers (I used to work for an online auction company, so i kind of know the biz) or something to avoid like a chimp infected with Ebola? How accurate are the 'H7' 'F7' codes and how indicative are they of functional ability? I will continue to surf this forum, but I thought someone might be able to share some knowledge and experience.

Thanks for your patience in reading this post!

~J

 

[Dodge man]

Welcome to the insane asylum! The F7, H7, etc codes are frequently meaningless. First off, they report a lot of items as bad when there's nothing wrong with them but they just want to get new replacements. I buy a LOT of surplus through various government auctions and I'd say that at least 60 to 70% of the F7 rated stuff that I get is fine! For example, the "bad motor" often turns out to be nothing but a bad set of points! OTOH some of the GL stuff has been sitting for a LONG time before finally being sold so it does deteriorate. And people steal stuff off of them while they're sitting, sometimes BIG stuff! And GL often drains ALL the fluids so that doesn't help. Government surplus is ALWAYS an adventure! You have to be prepared for ANYTHING!! YMMV.

 

[wreckerman893]

Welcome to the Green Iron Loony bin.

Single and financially sound.....you are a GL dream come true.

Already bitten by the Green Iron Bug.

You are doomed!!!!
"Abandon hope all ye who enter here".

Make plans to be at the GA Rally in Oct. You will be in bad company and it is cheaper than therapy.

 

[Recovry4x4]

You will like the 101A2, its the second best mil trailer there is. Sorry about the infection, it's not really curable.

 

[m16ty]

its the second best mil trailer there is.

Kenny, I have to ask, What is the best?

 

[Recovry4x4]

Love the M101A3. Can be towed with the deuce, suburban and the M1008. Has it's own brakes and 55" between the inner fender wells. I can't begin to tell you how useful it has been. Oh, can still move it by hand too! The only real drawback to the A1 and A2 is the 45" between the fender wells.

 

[porkysplace]

welcome

 

[akonitony]

Nothin' a hammer won't fix... provided, of course, it's a metric one!

 

[akonitony]

In answer to the question on GL bidding, I have found looking over the pics well and figuring out your very maximum amount you would be willing to pay, then putting that bid in and hitting auto bid, and not looking back until the auction is over, is the best way to avoid getting into a bid war and paying a lot more than what the item(s) is/are worth.

 

[AtomicHillbilly]

Thanks for the info fellas! A crap shoot is kind of what I was a-figurin the game would be. Pardon the naivete, but how does one go about recovering a non-running M35a2? I think my dad's truck (F-250) would pull it with a gooseneck, but it's got to be getting close to the tow capacity and not something I would want to do for very long. That's not even counting how to get the deuce onto the trailer in the first place. How much does it tend to run to get one shipped? (I know it depends on distance, etc)

And about the trailers- I got the 101 because from what I read online it seems to tow okay behind an H3. That being said, it sure isn't going to pull it very fast. (considering the H3 5 cyl can barely make it up a hill as it is... Hitch height may be an issue. I'll have to address that when the time comes.

 

[AtomicHillbilly]

Thanks for the info fellas! A crap shoot is kind of what I was a-figurin the game would be. Pardon the naivete, but how does one go about recovering a non-running M35a2? I think my dad's truck (F-250) would pull it with a gooseneck, but it's got to be getting close to the tow capacity and not something I would want to do for very long. That's not even counting how to get the deuce onto the trailer in the first place. How much does it tend to run to get one shipped? (I know it depends on distance, etc)

And about the trailers- I got the 101 because from what I read online it seems to tow okay behind an H3. That being said, it sure isn't going to pull it very fast. (considering the H3 5 cyl can barely make it up a hill as it is... Hitch height may be an issue. I'll have to address that when the time comes.

 

[Nonotagain]

Thanks for the info fellas!

And about the trailers- I got the 101 because from what I read online it seems to tow okay behind an H3. That being said, it sure isn't going to pull it very fast. (considering the H3 5 cyl can barely make it up a hill as it is... Hitch height may be an issue. I'll have to address that when the time comes.

A crap shoot is kind of what I was a-figurin the game would be. Pardon the naivete, but how does one go about recovering a non-running M35a2? I think my dad's truck (F-250) would pull it with a gooseneck, but it's got to be getting close to the tow capacity and not something I would want to do for very long. That's not even counting how to get the deuce onto the trailer in the first place. How much does it tend to run to get one shipped? (I know it depends on distance, etc)

The M101 sits just a little high, but then again, there is the adjustable slide in unit that accepts the pintle hitch, so all is not lost. Keep an eye on Ebay and you can purchase either one or both parts for less than $50.

I just purchased a third slide in with a 2 5/16" ball/pintle with a 14 hole plate for $65. There are deals out there if you look around.

I wouldn't attempt towing a deuce on a goose neck with a F-250. With my F-350 dually, it's not fun.

Having someone in the industry pick up your truck should run you between $2.50-3.50 per mile. As for loading, some sites assist, others tell you to get a tow truck and have them pick up the truck then load it at their yard.

I have a couple of 3.5 ton Coffing chain hoists that I have used to winch trucks onto the trailer.

 

[AtomicHillbilly]

One other thing- how does titling go with Deuces? Input from someone in TN would be particularly useful here. If you win one and drive it home, do you just hope you don't get pulled over, or try and get a temp tag? TN seems pretty chill about motor vehicles (at least compared to my home state of NC which has turned into DMV nazis) but I still wonder just how much I could get away with.

Which brings me to another question- SF-97s vs. the Florida title work around... For the trailer I am buying, should I try and get the SF97 or the title? Is this a process I should start now, or after my EUC is finalized?

Thanks again,

J

 

[wreckerman893]

If you decide to buy through GL your closest purchase points will be either Fort Campbell, KY, or Redstone Arsenal near Huntsville, AL. There are members that will help you do a recovery and get your new toy home.
If you want to go with a private seller there are a lot of green iron pimps on this site that will allow you to inspect and drive before you buy. That would be my reccomendation unless you are a glutton for punishment and want to jump through GL's hoops.

 

[blybrook]

Which brings me to another question- SF-97s vs. the Florida title work around... For the trailer I am buying, should I try and get the SF97 or the title? Is this a process I should start now, or after my EUC is finalized?

Thanks again,

J

They will automatically send you the paperwork for your state, either the title or the straight SF-97. They've got an internal list it seems that has all the states that require a title or SF-97 already and will send you the right stuff (hopefully).

You can't really start this process until AFTER it is off the GL lot. According to the local GL site admin, he has to scan and send in the signed invoice that it was picked up before they will start the titling paperwork. Expect about another 30 day wait after you get it off the lot to when it's completely legal.

HTH

Bill

 

[sandcobra164]

I've got one titled in GA for sale that will be alot more promising than what you're trying to bid on at GL. This truck starts and runs on it's own and doesn't have a rod hanging out of the side of the block like some that go for auction. GL is a gamble and sometimes you win, sometimes it's painful. Preview before bidding is great advice. Luckily, Scrap Iron is going up if you lose, you just got to find a way to drag it to the yard to cut your losses.

 

[fasttruck]

They will give you a sf 97 or a florida title depending if your home state will or will not accept a sf97. New jersey does not so you get a title from florida and flip that to title and register in nj. That is unless you buy a small trailer such as a m101 and then you just get a notorized bill of sale and the adventure with the nj motor vehicle commission begins.

 

[m16ty]

One other thing- how does titling go with Deuces? Input from someone in TN would be particularly useful here. If you win one and drive it home, do you just hope you don't get pulled over, or try and get a temp tag? TN seems pretty chill about motor vehicles (at least compared to my home state of NC which has turned into DMV nazis) but I still wonder just how much I could get away with.

Which brings me to another question- SF-97s vs. the Florida title work around... For the trailer I am buying, should I try and get the SF97 or the title? Is this a process I should start now, or after my EUC is finalized?

Thanks again,

J

I've aways got my trucks titled in TN with just the sf97 and reassignment letter. I never have got a title to any of the trailers I've bought because it's really not needed in TN for personal use and I don't have to pay GL $60 for the sf97.

You can't request a sf97 before you pick the trailer up.

 

[WyoDeuce]

If you don't like gambling then this isn't the place to be. GL is a big gamble but when you score it is great. Preview if you can. I allways roll the dice.