What's going to be easier...dilemma

[bpj911]

I bought a super nice N/A duece w/w from Ranchopper. Nice truck, drove it home 450 miles. Really needs nothing except it's very slow. Can barely get to 55 on the flat.

I also bought a bobbed deuce last weekend. W/OW. Runs 60 pretty easy on 11.00 20 radials.

-Not as nice, a little rust, just not quite as clean but still pretty good.

So, in short, i want one bobbed truck.

Would it be easier to: bob the N/A truck and install the turbo on to it.

Or: install the winch and do a little bit of body work.

Or, can I make the N/A truck run as good as the C turbo one? Man it's like night and day difference in speed. I know the one is bobbed and all but it's like a freakin racecar in comparison.

Thoughts please.

 

[bpj911]

I forgot to mention, the clutch is harder and a bit "grabby' on the turbo bobber. Smooth and easy as can be on the N/A so that would be a little extra effort too...

 

[powerhouseduece]

Wow talk about 6 in one basket, half dozen in the other. I say fix the bobber, and keep them both. I guess that its good to have more than one when the parts are all inter-changeable

 

[clinto]

1. You want a bobbed deuce. You have a bobbed deuce. Don't cut a second one.

2. The turbo and non turbo trucks should be the same. The military did not put turbos on multifuels for power, they did it for smoke and emissions. In fact, I believe the turbo retrofit kit was called a "clean air kit". So yes, the non-turbo truck can be made to run as well as the turbo.

3. Keep them both. You can't fit enough mulch in a bobbed deuce.

 

[Chevytruck]

had to say it

 

[jatonka]

If you can afford it, keep them both, the guys are right, interchangeable parts and you can never have enough green stuff. I prefer N/A multifuels because there is no turbo to go bad or replace. And, I love that black smoke plume out of my N/A deuces when I'm pulling the hills. Hey, There are a lot of trucks around right now, but there won't be much longer at GL, there is an end in site. JT

 

[bpj911]

Should I really be able to crank up the N/A's fuel enough to keep up with the turbo truck? I really don't even like the noise from the turbo but being able to take hills at 55 that would have put the N/A truck at 30mph is really nice. I am sure the bobbed truck does better partly due to the weight and the radials of course.

 

[Jakob]

FWIW, other than acceleration, my NA truck will haul a$$ once it's up to speed. Bringing it home through the TN hills (from Atlanta to Louisville), I could still keep it over 50mph. Only twice did I have to shift down to 4th gear. It's needing a tune up now... filters and such, and the clutch is slipping. Otherwise, as far as "running" power goes, I can't complain with a properly set up NA truck. Once I get a pyro, then the fuel is getting turned up.

 

[SR71BLACKBIRD]

Like the gov. thinks....Why have one when you can have two for twice the price? Keepem both.
Question... Did you move the remaining drive axle when bobbing? I am looking at mine close and can I get the springs etc at a truck yard? Like to see a picture of your rig with the 1100 20's

 

[jj]

A long time friend of my father says, "One is Good. Two is Better. A spare for each would be nice, too." Good, sound, life lesson, wisdom to live by. Keep 'em both. Buy spares. jj

 

[bulldog_mack13]

You guys are making me want one LOL

Id be on the road if I could get rid on the M332 and my tow bar

 

[M543A2]

You can easily add a turbo kit to the non-turbo truck. You do not need to go with the whistler turbo if you object to the noise. We did that with one of our trucks. More power, especially if you are not bashful with the fuel screw. I guarantee the turbo truck with turned up fuel will still make the spoke plume you like, while making more power because the turbo is giving the engine more air to use the higher fuel setting. How you drive it determines if turning up the fuel will be a problem. As mentioned, a pyrometer and/or boost gage is a good idea. Look along the mating line head/block on the manifold side of the engine. If there are head gasket tabs protruding at every cylinder, you have the good gasket set, with which we have never blown a gasket. It is a good diea to let the engine warm up before getting on the power too hard. We have run engines in the boxes, and found an interesting phenomenon. We had one that blew a non-tab gasket out the back of the head. When we replaced the gaskets, we started the engine in the box and used a heat gun to see how evenly the temp came up. We found that for some reason, probably due to the location of the cooling water passages there, the back center of the engine at the gasket line heats up very quickly in relation to the rest of the block and head. This could cause a problem with gasket retention in that area if a cold engine is pushed too hard.
Regards Marti