I think you'd have to do some pretty major trimming. Like, almost remove the fender. I have no practical experience even attempting something like that. That's why I got the lift. Before I installed the lift I rolled one of the 37"s up next to the truck and they were just barely smaller than the opening in the fender at stock height. I think you'd be nuts to try to get them in there without a lift. I still need to do some checking on my rig but I'm pretty sure I heard my tires rub as I bounced over a curb last night. That's WITH a lift. I'm going to pull my sway bar and find a nice steep incline and get this thing all twisty and see what's going on under there. I think I may still end up doing trimming some.
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Wheel Backspace Adapter Q's. M1008
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Hightechken
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No spacers are needed in the rear. The spacers (Or different offset wheels) ARE needed at the front. Otherwise the wheels hit the tie rods.
AFAIK with the spacers on front, Some fender trimming is all you need, If you trim enough, No lift kit needed.
The trucks I have seen done kept the trimming to the inside of the fender, And the very lower part. Not really noticeable unless you really look close.
I'm not saying you're wrong, maybe the application was a bit different, but with my lift and spacers I'm rubbing pretty hard now on the back of the opening in the front. When I'm turned or when I bounce over stuff. I almost got stuck in te middle of the street today just trying to turn around. The fender got stuck in the treads and I had to beat it back with a hammer. I have to get out the grinder and hammers tonight. And all of this is WITH a 4" lift. These tires are huge.
Yeah spacers are needed in the front like what has been stated earlier. I bought my spacers from wheeladapter.com. I bought the in between dually steel spacers. They are very heavy, but stout. I'm sure aluminum ones are fine, but I plan on putting a lot of highway miles on my truck, and just felt more comfortable with steel spacers. They are $320.99 with free shipping.
Also even with spacers the inside of the left front tire (driver side) will come in contact with the draglink when turned all the way to the right. AJMBLAZER pointed this problem out to me. All you have to do is buy a long grade 8 bolt and put it in the place of your current turn stop. Adjust it until you are satisfied and the tire doesn't come in contact with the draglink anymore.
Also even with spacers the inside of the left front tire (driver side) will come in contact with the draglink when turned all the way to the right. AJMBLAZER pointed this problem out to me. All you have to do is buy a long grade 8 bolt and put it in the place of your current turn stop. Adjust it until you are satisfied and the tire doesn't come in contact with the draglink anymore.
Cucvnut
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or get dana 60 DWR hubs.
Hightechken
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The two trucks I looked at and talked with the owners who had done the swap and fender trimming were both M1008's, Which looked just like my M1031.
All I have personally done so far is install the wheels and tires on the back, And attempted to install them on the front when I found the tie rod interference. I have not bought the spacers yet ..........
All I have personally done so far is install the wheels and tires on the back, And attempted to install them on the front when I found the tie rod interference. I have not bought the spacers yet ..........
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/76267-my-m1010-now-37s-w-no-lift-pics.html
I was thinking of something like this (for the trimming)
If spacers are required for hummer wheels then these are looking pretty cheap depending on freight.
Custom Hummer Wheels w/ Tire Combos
$209 with welded centers with tires, add $50 for iinternal beadlocks.
I was thinking of something like this (for the trimming)
If spacers are required for hummer wheels then these are looking pretty cheap depending on freight.
Custom Hummer Wheels w/ Tire Combos
$209 with welded centers with tires, add $50 for iinternal beadlocks.
Hightechken
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209.95 each IS a great price for the custom wheels and 80% Plus tires! I paid close to 200 each for stock wheels and about 90% tires at a local show, So no shipping.
37's can fit with no lift
I'm so happy I was linked to this thread! I'm in the "crazy" crowd, because I fit 37's with no lift and have no rubbing issues.
Of course, I did trim my fenders generously. The inner wheelwells are still there, however. I did have the drag-link issue that was mentioned. I adjusted the steering stop first, then ended up shortening the drag-link during an at-home alignment (new tie rods and drag link installed and didn't feel like paying for an alignment until I fix some other stuff).
I'm trying to make it to the Georgia rally this coming Saturday so I can show off my truck!
I'm so happy I was linked to this thread! I'm in the "crazy" crowd, because I fit 37's with no lift and have no rubbing issues.
Of course, I did trim my fenders generously. The inner wheelwells are still there, however. I did have the drag-link issue that was mentioned. I adjusted the steering stop first, then ended up shortening the drag-link during an at-home alignment (new tie rods and drag link installed and didn't feel like paying for an alignment until I fix some other stuff).
I'm trying to make it to the Georgia rally this coming Saturday so I can show off my truck!
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Shrapnel, that thing looks sweet. I stand corrected I guess you COULD fit just about anything one one of these trucks, assuming you don't mind cutting up/removing quite a bit of sheet metal. I'm curious about what kind of articulation you can get with this setup. Is it full articulation while turned and still no rub? If so, I wonder if that would still be the case with the swaybar disconnected? Is there a gap anywhere between your fender and wheel well? Kind of tough to tell on the pics. If so I'm sure it's not a huge deal down south, but where I live that would be packed with salt-laden snow and ice in a big hurry come winter. Compared to yours I did some pretty minor fender trimming and still worry about that cut edge rusting. I rolled the edge over and sealed, primed, put on rock guard spray, then painted mine. Hopefully that should be enough to help mitigate the ever-present rust issues up here in the great white north.
Nice lookin' truck. Love the flat black.
Nice lookin' truck. Love the flat black.
Hightechken
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I did not change out the speedometer gearing to correct for the oversize tires, So cannot correctly calculate mileage that way, My "guesstimate" is maybe 2 to 3 MPG better.
I am just amazed how good the mileage is on these trucks with even the stock tires and gears!
The main reason I wanted to go with the oversize tires is to lower engine RPM at highway speeds to help the engine live longer at at high speed.
I am just amazed how good the mileage is on these trucks with even the stock tires and gears!
The main reason I wanted to go with the oversize tires is to lower engine RPM at highway speeds to help the engine live longer at at high speed.
I am just hoping for at least 16mpg for commuting (40 miles one way). It won't be driven much in the motorcycle season, except for off roading and shooting expeditions. Durring the winter it will be a commuter though. I wanted to buy a multifuel deuce, but the economics just don't add up at this time.
I just don't want to HAVE to lift it. I may lift it in the future. I just need the ground clearance of the taller tire for snow wheeling.
I just don't want to HAVE to lift it. I may lift it in the future. I just need the ground clearance of the taller tire for snow wheeling.
Hightechken
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I think you can do 15-16 MPG, Driving technique and conditions mean a lot too........ The M1009 does better than 20MPG on the highway!
Matt65, did you re-gear your spedo? Just wondering if that is odometer miles or actual miles? I haven't attempted to figure out what I'm getting now but wonder myself. Before the lift and tires I was getting 18-20 mpg, that's combined city and highway, but mostly highway, not drag racing, going easy on the skinny pedal. I HOPE that I'm now getting closer to 20-22 mpg. At least that's what I tell the wife in order to justify the money I spent on the lift. I tend to really ease it off the line and go more for smooth gear shifts than acceleration. On the freeway, I still tend to keep it around 55 most of the time, so I'm running much lower RPM's but these tires are HEAVY and I'm up in the wind more now.
J.Z.
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wheels
I asked a guy that I had seen driving with these on a 80s suburban...He said he hated them and would sell me the 4wheels,tires,spacers,and two spares...$400
I asked a guy that I had seen driving with these on a 80s suburban...He said he hated them and would sell me the 4wheels,tires,spacers,and two spares...$400
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Do it! (then give me one of the spares?...) I've seen these pics on Craigslist. I don't know why he hates them, but who cares, that's really cheap! If you understand what they're designed for, they work great. Just by looking at them you can tell they're going to be suicide on ice, but fantastic on just about everything else, and they are. I really like mine so far, but I tend to drive slow and take it easy on turns, etc anyway.
J.Z.
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tires
These ones are mine now..The craigslist ad is my ad..I have decided not to lift my cucv for now and was trying to move this set for what I had paid.....
These ones are mine now..The craigslist ad is my ad..I have decided not to lift my cucv for now and was trying to move this set for what I had paid.....
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Are those the 36" bias ply's? I forget now. I wish I had known those were you earlier. Did you take the ad down for a while? I remember looking on CL right before I bought mine and didn't see any listings, so I decided not to wait and just buy mine online. I totally would have come check those out at least. Especially since you're just over in Shakopee. I live right off 35W. Crap. Interested in selling me 2 spacers and a spare????