wheel chocks

[Jones]

We use full dimension 4X6s long enough to bridge the rear duals, laid on the 6" side. The top 6" face has the edges 45ed to give a 2" wide surface; with a chain or rope to remove them.

The trick is "setting" the chock(s). After the chocks are placed we let the truck roll against them. That way it's real difficult to 'accidentally' dislodge them.

 

[saddamsnightmare]

December 17th, 2009.

Dear TM America:

Obviously you have not driven a Unimog lately....... Gutless is just about any American or Japanese built SUV, and they make much better chocks.

Cheers,

Kyle F. McGrogan

 

[MyothersanM1]

Found these chocks painted high-visibility yellow and the chain is included. They're not rubber but I think they'll do.

 

[jdmcgowen]

My Deuce made it's own chocks in my driveway. On a hot summer day my front tires sank into my hot asphalt. Works for me.

 

[cten]

I use a 6x6 myself. I know you use to be able to pick up rubber chock blocks with the eye loop screwed in at most truck stops for about $20.00 each.

Maybe someone knows the answer to this. I thought you were not suppost to leave your truck in gear. Not for the lurch forward incase someone else starts the truck or something.

But more so if the truck started to move it could start is what I thought I had read 5 years back or someone had mentioned that to me 5 years ago.

 

[Pawnshop]

I use the rubber chocks from Harbor Freight (same as Tractor supply but cheaper), they do the job and match the ones that came in my Deuce and M1009 when I picked them up from the Army. You CAN drive a Deuce over them if you forget to un chock without damaging them (ask me how I know). DO NOT LEAVE YOUR DEUCE IN GEAR WHEN PARKED!!! If it rolls in gear for any reason it WILL start and keep going until it runs out of fuel or crashes into something bigger!!! There are things you can do to keep it from starting (STOP handle in the full out position) but NOT leaving it gear is the best method. The "parking" (not emergency) brake is for holding the vehicle when not chocked, leaving the brake on for an extended period of time will make the shoes rust to the drum in humid climates (even if it is only a couple of days, ask me how I know) or freeze to the drum in cold areas. This condition can be difficult to overcome.

I like the yellow 6x6 method and may build some of those for spares.

 

[fsudad1958]

I use the rubber chocks that came with my trucks from Uncle Sam.

 

[emr]

U can leave it in gear as long as the fuel shut off is pulled out like said above, no fuel no start, the mil chocks are copied easy enough, i preffer a mil look, i have seen em yellow on base here but by far mostly green, I have green and yellow depending on how I feel when pulling out what ones to bring, a show may get the nice yellow oak ones the mil uses for the super singles, they are long enough for the 14 or 1600's

 

[bob b]

i have it on an incline stop all the way out with ahinged collar i made to put a small lock through to go around fuel shut off it is in gear in rev truck is on a 20 degree in cline facing down hill and chocked all four rear wheels i'm still a little leary about it moving but hasn't yet i guess when front drivers side rear lifted up on chock that has me leary no other place to park level

 

[mudguppy]

it baffles me why everyone chocks a rear wheel - the rears hold less weight than the front, and w/ the bogy style suspension, it only takes half the force to overcome a chock.

in my [former] motorpool and also Ft. Stewart's standard policy, the front tires are what gets chocked because these are the wheels that chocks are more effective on - more weight on this axle and no bogy suspension to help walk over the chock. besides, it makes sense and is easier to put down and take up when you're already there setting the drip pan.

lastly, why the crap would anyone spend $40 on an aluminum chock? we used a block of 6x6 that was cut into a 45° and eye-bolted onto a piece of chain long enough to reach the front of the front wheel. that's it.

i use either a block of 6x6 or 8x8 left over from my last deck project. if it's flat, i usually won't use anything but the p-brake. if there's any kind of incline, i use the 6" block at the front. and if it's real steep i'll grab the 8" block and use it on the other front wheel in addition.

 

[Pawnshop]

it baffles me why everyone chocks a rear wheel - the rears hold less weight than the front, and w/ the bogy style suspension, it only takes half the force to overcome a chock.

I do the front driver side wheel because it's easier for me to see it on my way to the cab, so's I don't forget to pull chocks before I drive off. Your reasoning makes plenty of sense, and that is how I will explain it in the future

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

it baffles me why everyone chocks a rear wheel - the rears hold less weight than the front, and w/ the bogy style suspension, it only takes half the force to overcome a chock.

in my [former] motorpool and also Ft. Stewart's standard policy, the front tires are what gets chocked because these are the wheels that chocks are more effective on - more weight on this axle and no bogy suspension to help walk over the chock. besides, it makes sense and is easier to put down and take up when you're already there setting the drip pan.

lastly, why the crap would anyone spend $40 on an aluminum chock? we used a block of 6x6 that was cut into a 45° and eye-bolted onto a piece of chain long enough to reach the front of the front wheel. that's it.

i use either a block of 6x6 or 8x8 left over from my last deck project. if it's flat, i usually won't use anything but the p-brake. if there's any kind of incline, i use the 6" block at the front. and if it's real steep i'll grab the 8" block and use it on the other front wheel in addition.

My high School APPLIED PHYSICS teacher would have been proud of your "essay". And then would have had us perform some experiments to prove or disprove the assertion/theory. It's NOT Rocket-Science.... It's DUECE-SCIENCE