Wheel Covers / Rim Protectors

[Hwhomes]

Has anyone ever made wheel covers designed to protect the CTIS assembly on the wheel? seems almost a necessity to have such protection.

 

[Suprman]

There are already ones available.

 

[Shark Bait]

I purchased some for mine over a year and a half ago but never put them on. Kind of forgot. Lol. Maybe this will remind me to and I'll get pics.

Dave

 

[SIMXVertigo]

I put mine on this weekend. I'll do a write up this week on how it went.

Here is a pic:

 

[Suprman]

They look pretty good on there. I think I will put mine on too.

 

[mkcoen]

I put mine on this weekend. I'll do a write up this week on how it went.

Here is a pic:

That's a beautiful looking truck. If they ever start selling them again in TX I'll be in the market. As it is, I could bid a lot higher locally versus driving to CO or NC or anywhere OUTSIDE of TX.

But getting back to the wheel covers, I'll definitely be looking in to those as well. They clean the look of the wheel up quite a bit.

 

[SIMXVertigo]

Thanks for the compliment Mkcoen! I got my girl in Georgia with 7200 miles on her and shes a 97. I'm very happy with her.

I'll try to do the write up on Monday in the AM. It was not a straight bolt on like I was hoping but it went smoothly overall. Nothing a wheel grinder can't fix!

 

[SIMXVertigo]

Alleged How To Guide Pt.1

Had to cut a slot into mine so they fit over the CTIS lines but it was way easy after that.

Here is what you will need:

5/8-18 tap and die.
1-1/2 or biggest crescent wrench you can find
Small wire brush
Small vice grip
You will need a socket to tighten the bolt lugs (that even what they are called?) to the rim. I forgot the size of the socket you need and I DO NOT suggest using an air gun to tighten.
This is all that came in a kit for one wheel guard. Four mounting bolts, 4 washers, valve stem extension and 'instructions'.

Bolt lugs: The first thing you should do is tap out all four of your bolt lugs even if they don't look like they need it. Last thing you want is to get it half way onto the rim and have it bind. Vice and a t-handle tap wrench will do...so will two crescent wrenches. After doing all four, lets move onto the next step.

Putting the valve stem extensions on will help in figuring out how the cover will fit onto the rim with or without modification. Locate the 'stock' valve stem and take the cap off and put the cap where you will not lose it. Take a wire brush and clean the treads off on the stem. Once you have cleaned the threads, grab your valve stem extension and start to thread it on. Mine would go all the way and then need help with the last 2-4 millimeters. Take a small vice grip and seat it as far as it will go and then tighten it slightly past to lock it on. NOTE: As you screw the extension on, air will start to come out the top of the extension. It is a minor leak and can be completely sealed by the valve stem cap. It is slightly concerning at first but is easily fixed. I would also suggest getting steel caps to replace the plastic ones if your truck comes with them. Onto the next step!

This next step is where I had to modify the cover after test fitting. If you have no need for this, skip to below.
After test fitting, you might (hope not) notice that your cover will not seat completely as the CTIS lines will be in the way and this will be need to have a slot cut to fit proper. Now here is where it MIGHT be specific to each generation of FMTV. The picture after this is what it should look like completed AFTER modification. Notice the main air line leading under the cover and the location of the oval cut out at the 2 o'clock position. This main line is what was preventing me from just bolting the cover on and needs to have a slot cut out. The aforementioned oval cut out is where the pressure valve and valve stem is located with the pressure valve located to the left of the oval and the valve stem to the right side. Onto cutting the slot!

Part 2 next post!

 

[SIMXVertigo]

Part 2!

*If no modifications are need for your covers, move on to the next step.*
Take the cover off and lay it facing down with the back side facing up with the oval cutout to the 10 o'clock. There is a factory cutout where the pressure valve and valve stem can be accessed while bolted to the rim (see pic with cover upside down). Leave a 3 inch long tab to the right of the factory cut out (see pic of cutout) and make a 5 inch log cutout to the left of the tab. Your specs may vary from FMTV to FMTV. I used a cutoff disc and it worked perfect. This step needs to be done to all for if required. Next step!

Test fit the cover onto the rim and mark the bolts the rim as it will save time threading them with the thread die faster. Make sure you place the cover on correctly with the oval cutout over the pressure valve and stem. Use the die to clean off as much dirt and paint before going further. Align the covers and bolts and wrench it on!

I would type more and add picture but the site wont let me.

:/

 

[MaiNiaK]

I got mine a few weeks ago, but there still sitting in my garage.

My trucks been parked for a few weeks due to a leak in the rear pinion seal. I'm afraid I also have a leaking hub seal, do to the rear right tire loosing air while parked. This all started when I drove it when it was -12 f. Air was even blowing out the trailer break handle when I first started it that day.

I'm just waiting on some warmer weather so I can do some work on mine.

They look great though..

 

[Suprman]

Loosing air when sitting could be a leaky wheel valve or a bad line from the stem
to wheel valve. Spray windex on it all and around where the rim is put together. If no leaks there then replace the valve.

 

[Pointman0853]

I also have a wheel slowly leaking air. Sprayed it all off with diluted Dawn in a spray bottle, no bubbles. I'm thinking I may have a dirty air valve at the wheel.

Any advice on how to disassemble and clean?

Pointman

 

[Suprman]

Moisture gets in and corrodes them and then the rubber flap dosnt have a smooth surface to seal against. You can remove the valve and there are 4 nuts and bolts that hold it together. Best to have a spare on hand before tearing into an old one though. Just in case.

 

[juanprado]

How much do they weigh? I take it the bolts are hollow and thread over the existing rim stud?

Any problems with the balance of the wheel/tire?

My 2 front rims are camian/fmtv and I thought of using these to protect all the bolts as I don't have CTIS and for the cool factor.

 

[SIMXVertigo]

How much do they weigh? I take it the bolts are hollow and thread over the existing rim stud?

Any problems with the balance of the wheel/tire?

My 2 front rims are camian/fmtv and I thought of using these to protect all the bolts as I don't have CTIS and for the cool factor.

The bolts are hollow and do thread over the existing bolts. That is why I suggest using a tap and die to clean up all the treads.

I have not noticed any balance issues. I'll be doing a 45 mile run on Friday and I will report back.

They are made of 12 or 10 gauge steel. I did not weigh them but I would estimate a 6-13 pound with the bolts. You pick one up and and it's very deceiving on how light they really are. Bolts take a 1-1/16 socket.

On another note. I just removed the valve stem extension not 5 minutes ago. I noticed the drivers side tire was really deflated when I can out to start the truck and did not have this issues until I installed the extension. Now that the extension is removed, there is more room to access the fill port and the pressure valve.

 

[juanprado]

Thanks for the tip and info. I got mine installed this weekend.

Only thing I would like to add is that I bought a used 1/2 drive 1 7/16 socket for the die nut ( odd size to find and I only had a 3/4 drive which I was afraid of being too thick) off epay to chase the threads with my electric 1/2 impact. I started them by hand and let the impact do the work for me.

 

[Ukraine Train]

Who sells these? How much? Do they extend above the wheel lip very far?

 

[juanprado]

Who sells these? How much? Do they extend above the wheel lip very far?

Search on epay $15 plus ride as I can not link directly for:
[h=1]FMTV LMTV Wheel guard CTIS Protector Kit M1078 Military [/h]You might also message him here as he is a member.

They stick out maybe 3 inches from what I saw but did not put a tape on them.

 

[Oxyacetylene]

Thanks for the tip and info. I got mine installed this weekend.

Only thing I would like to add is that I bought a used 1/2 drive 1 7/16 socket for the die nut ( odd size to find and I only had a 3/4 drive which I was afraid of being too thick) off epay to chase the threads with my electric 1/2 impact. I started them by hand and let the impact do the work for me.

OK may be a silly question, but what are those teardrop shaped pieces for on the lug nuts? I have seen those on a couple semi's and wondered. Is it to denote left handed vs. right handed threads? Or maybe it gives you a visual indicator of a lug nut that has loosened up?

 

[juanprado]

OK may be a silly question, but what are those teardrop shaped pieces for on the lug nuts? I have seen those on a couple semi's and wondered. Is it to denote left handed vs. right handed threads? Or maybe it gives you a visual indicator of a lug nut that has loosened up?

They are a safety item for a quick visual check to make sure lug nuts have not backed off when doing a walk around. They are used by many bus fleets and garbage trucks here. They are cheap and piece of mind for me. My local Truck Pro carries them maybe .50-.60 each depending on your account with them.
The bright green ones do fade with the sun and don't look so bad on a military vehicle after time.

I am 51 and have seen 2 semi tires/ rims rolling down the interstate and that is enough for me. I have them on all my trailers also.
http://www.wheel-check.com/detection.html