Where does the purple wire go exactly?

[dstang97]

Are you 100% sure your starter works? and Batteries are load tested?

 

[doghead]

In and Out, is shown as the power circuit in the pics Warthog posted above(post #20).

The big studs on the relay. In is the power side of the relay, out is the other side(going to the glow plugs.

On most CUCVs, in is on top, and out is on the bottom.

 

[73m819]

The third page, being it looks like the question has been answered , at least to some.

I have TRIED to avoid answering Where does the purple wire go exactly? but could not hold myself back any longer. The answer is as everybody knows is to the TETHER

 

[edpdx]

Topped off the batteries. Ran more voltage tests. All still seem fine. Checked the Back-up Safety switch. It was not engaged all the way. Tried again, Clack!

Pulled the starter back out to test it on the bench. I cut the ford relay out of the circuit. With 24 volts to the purple wire and 24 to the stock location on the starter solenoid, I turned the key and the Starter fired up nicely.

I did notice the flexplate had 3 teeth at the starting gear that were in bad repair. How can I turn the FP for inspection? I reserved to NAPA one for pick-up tomorrow. Should the Torque Converter be replaced too?

Anything else while I'm in there? Bolts?

 

[Matt65]

I did notice the flexplate had 3 teeth at the starting gear that were in bad repair. How can I turn the FP for inspection? I reserved to NAPA one for pick-up tomorrow. Should the Torque Converter be replaced too?

Anything else while I'm in there? Bolts?

When I replaced mine I got it for <$30 through Saturn.

I rotate my flexplate with a socket and 3/4" ratchet on the harmonic balancer bolt. You may want to confirm the rear main seal, and replace if needed while doing the flexplate.

 

[edpdx]

I have the starter out and it does spin up just fine- it just won't spin up if I run a jumper from the 24v cable, the purple wire and ground. Tested the purple wire and it is only delivering 22.7 at the solenoid; but I have been attempting several starts/tests in the last 24 hours.

I am getting 10.5 volts at the purple w/white wire at the starter relay.
In the start position I get 24 volts at both the red and purple leads, so the relay must be good? I have tried 3 of the spec'd relays- they all give similar results current flows through them as expected. Is it possible that the battery power reaching the solenoid (22.7) is to low to activate it.

What else could keep the starter from spinning up? Remember, it is known good.

 

[dstang97]

What else could keep the starter from spinning up? Remember, it is known good.[/QUOTE]

the 10 volts at the starter solenoid. I had the same problem.

 

[Warthog]

He has 10.5v at the underdash starter relay, 22.7 at the starter solenoid.

That sure sounds like dirty connections to me.

Have you taken the firewall connector apart and cleaned it?

 

[dstang97]

I"m sorry I miss read that.

 

[Warthog]

I"m sorry I miss read that.

So did I the first couple of times I read it.

 

[edpdx]

No gents, you didn't misread it. I did say starter- where I meant starter RELAY. I edited it when I read dstangs follow-up comment. (See note for editing).

He has 10.5v at the underdash starter relay, 22.7 at the starter solenoid.

That sure sounds like dirty connections to me.

Have you taken the firewall connector apart and cleaned it?

Are you talking about those busses where all the battery leads attach? If so, I have cleaned them only behind the neg and 24 leads that come from the battery or go to the starter. Would this really be the culprit? -I am getting 22+ volts to the "S" terminal on the stock starter solenoid. Shouldn't that be enough voltage to at least work the Bendix?

 

[Warthog]

No I am talkingh about the bundle of all the wires going thru the firewall by the steering colum. I posted pictures earlier in the thread.

You are getting a voltage drop from somewhere and that would be the first place I would look/clean.

 

[edpdx]

OK!!! I charged the batteries overnight and was able to get the starter to spin with a jumper from the purple post on the starter relay to the starter solenoid (ON THE BENCH) I then tried it with the Ford solenoid in line- no go.

I'll reinstall the starter with the stock configuration just to see if I can get her running again.

I did notice one thing yesterday before I charged both batteries to 12.7v:

With the starter installed, I only got a CLACK! at the starter relay. So I jumed the RED-PURPLE top post while holding the key in START. Should I have heard the solenoid spinning up? Batteries were 12.2 or so.

 

[dstang97]

OK!!! I charged the batteries overnight and was able to get the starter to spin with a jumper from the purple post on the starter relay to the starter solenoid (ON THE BENCH) I then tried it with the Ford solenoid in line- no go.

I'll reinstall the starter with the stock configuration just to see if I can get her running again.

I did notice one thing yesterday before I charged both batteries to 12.7v:

With the starter installed, I only got a CLACK! at the starter relay. So I jumed the RED-PURPLE top post while holding the key in START. Should I have heard the solenoid spinning up? Batteries were 12.2 or so.

Re-read post 21.

 

[SouthernSteel]

The only ground that the whole truck uses is the ground at the bottom of the bar on the 24 volt side so any improvement is a Good thing :]Grounds are your friend for sure i have added quite a few more than what originally came and what a diffrence it made lights are brighter no lag when starting just numerous little stuff that was bugging the heck out of me :]

 

[edpdx]

I reinstalled my starter today. I started strong. It is the stock wiring though I did add two Anderson connectors.- One 2g single, and one Power pole for the purple wire.

I was unable to incorporate the Ford solenoid though.

This fix is again very unsatisfying, I charged the batteries. I cleaned the negative ground wiring. I don't know how or why it runs now and that is frustrating because I don't know what cured the problem.

If I get the same no start in the future, is there another way to jumper it started so I can at least drive it home?

 

[mistaken1]

I reinstalled my starter today. I started strong. It is the stock wiring though I did add two Anderson connectors.- One 2g single, and one Power pole for the purple wire.

I was unable to incorporate the Ford solenoid though.

This fix is again very unsatisfying, I charged the batteries. I cleaned the negative ground wiring. I don't know how or why it runs now and that is frustrating because I don't know what cured the problem.

If I get the same no start in the future, is there another way to jumper it started so I can at least drive it home?

It would help if you could draw a wiring diagram of what you are doing with the ford relay. Scan and post or take a clear picture and post so people can see all of the devices, wires and connections in your circuit.

If it is in the stock configuration now and working maybe it would be best to leave it that way.

 

[doghead]

I am guessing he was doing something like this, tp://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm

There is no need for this with a CUCV(IMHO).

 

[mistaken1]

The guy is not replacing the solenoid on the starter (so starter/solenoid heat issues remain). As far as I am concerned he is just adding another point of failure in the circuit with the ford relay.

I agree. Basically the stock system with a doghead relay modification is essentially already doing the same thing that the guy in the link is trying to accomplish (needed in the CUCV to switch 24V to the 24V starter).

 

[edpdx]

Here is the wiring plan I ws trying to implement. It is a modification of one I posted at CK5.

Typically Ford Starter Solenoids are incorporated in GM/Chevy ignition circuits because of HOT START issues. I had hoped to try a modified version so that the stock starter solenoid gets less abuse, and thus would require less replacement- especially the kind I have had lately 500 miles from my garage.

In this remote starter solenoid mod:

The Purple wire feeds the Stock Solenoid- but there is a jumper between the "S" terminal the magnet in the stock solenoid and energizes the 8g wire to the Ford solenoid "S". This solenoid now allows 24v to flow through it directly to the starter motor cable which has been disconnected from the stock solenoid.

The bottom cables with the gray Anderson connector represents the two wires (above) that run from the Ford Solenoid to the stock solenoid/starter.