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Where to get a new starter?

Thatwisebeardedguy

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Colorado
Hello all, I'm new to the forum here and a new owner of an '86 M1009. Started and drove well when I bought it, but the starter just burned out, took it off and found a sticker saying "remanufactured in Mexico".

I want to avoid buying a cheapo starter, I want it to last for years and not leave me stranded on the side of the trail 50 miles from a parts store, feel me?

So, what starter would y'all recommend? Thanks in advance!
 
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Evil Dr. Porkchop

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
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Colchester, VT
If you want one that will last don't get one of the cheap gear reduction starters. I'd look at getting your current one rebuilt. I run the heavy original ones in my trucks with good results, make sure your bolts are tight and you have the brace in the front of it too.
 

ken

Active member
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Houston Texas
Rareeletrical.com They are new reproductions. But they have worked well for me. Both alternators and the starter on my 1028 came from them.
 

Tinstar

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Don’t forget to use new starter bolts.
They are one time use only.

Upgrade your starter relay if you haven’t done it already.
Search for Doghead Relay.
Tons of info and how to.
 
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Jack Lope

New member
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Location
TX
Maybe check your area for a shop that does rebuilds. I found a local alternator/starter shop that is great. I'm no mechanic and I'd guess maybe rebuild not always an option.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
A guy walked into a starter repair shop. He needed a replacement starter for his M1009. The guy said hey put this gear reduction starter on and you don't need the support bracket. The 28MT is a lighter starter and won't need that extra support.

I was told this story several times by guys with flywheels that were chewed out and broken bolts in the block. On Sunday a member here talked to me and it was mentioned again. He was told/suggested the same deal. Wrong answer. That also controls the force /twist from the compression of the diesel engine. The starter support must be in place. MUST be NOT OPTIONAL.

28MT GM still available PN 23502557 less then $20. list price
The direct drive is discontinued and can be made easily. I had a few fabricated to exact standards. Just wanted to mention it. The block hole at the support to block is metric M8 1.25 NOT 5/16 NC thread. The end on the starter stud I recommend a nylock flange or a nylock and a flat washer 1/4" x 20 NC thread nut.
 
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ClintA

Member
244
13
18
Location
Mule Creek, NM
I can't speak for anyone else, but I have really bad luck putting on the new aftermarket starters because of the support bracket. I am not sure what I am doing wrong but when the bracket is on the 2 starter bolts will not want to start right. I have had them break the housing where the stud bolt is in a couple of times. I never leave it off (the bracket that is) I just have a hard time getting everything to line up right. I even try to put the bracket on last and still no dice. So I say stay with the old original starter if at all possible. That is my 2 cents. Please chime in so I can learn what I am doing different/wrong and if anyone else has had this problem.
 

rsh4364

Active member
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Location
greensprings ,ohio
There are 2 different front support brackets, one for the dd starter and one for the gear reduction starter, maybe you have mixed them up. I prefer the original dd starters.
 

ClintA

Member
244
13
18
Location
Mule Creek, NM
There are 2 different front support brackets, one for the dd starter and one for the gear reduction starter, maybe you have mixed them up. I prefer the original dd starters.
That must be what I am doing wrong, I did not know that there was 2 different ones made, so where does one find a support bracket for the newer style starters?
 

Tinstar

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GM still has them.
You can also get them (GM) on Amazon.

Several members here will have extras I bet.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Starter install tip. Get the starter support bracket bolted to the block M8x1.25 bolt. Now fasten starter to support bracket with 1/4" stud. Let both loose. Attach inner small wire tighten securely. Attached battery cable tighten securely. Make sure it is safety clocked and will not make contact with anything. Swing starter back up in place and align with M10 X 1.5 main starter bolts. Install hand tight. Tighten and torque to spec. Now go tighten the starter support bolt and nut. You should be good to go. It is about a 1/2 hour to R & R a starter unless someone failed to use proper fasteners and I have seen that many many times. Good Luck. If the starter sounds tired have it rebuilt. Check your cranking amps of your batteries and replace the starter bolts every time. Inexpensive insurance to avoid starter bolts broken and flex plate milling. Have it your way. Do NOT use 3/8" starter bolts. They will fit the holes and thread it. They will not torque to spec and they will fail. I have had engines out already because of people drilling and breaking bits off in the block. It's a simple task. Do it right the first time or don't do it. Do or do not there is no try.
 
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159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
Removed my starter this past weekend, will have it rebuilt.......honestly think my issue with random non-starts/clicks was due to loose connection on wire to left post on solenoid, positive cable to solenoid was firmly attached......but will have starter rebuilt since I already have it removed and don't know what service life it's already had on the truck.

Note the difference in starter bolts I removed vs what I ordered for replacement from a Chevy dealer......look like same length but different heads......what's torque spec on a starter bolt?

View attachment starter 2.pdfView attachment starter 1.pdf
 
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