• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

While the radiator is off...

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
Now general cooling system questions (edited)

I've got the radiator coming off today (it's draining now) and my plan is to replace the thermostat, of course check the belts and at least tension the compressor belt while I'm in there. I'll probably replace the hoses unless they look like new.

What else should I consider or do while I've got the radiator off?

Thank you.

(Edit: of course I'm reading the whole TM section on the cooling system but I thought there could be something non-cooling-related that is just easy to do while the radiator is off that I otherwise wouldn't think of).
 
Last edited:

DieselBob

Active member
2,891
15
38
Location
Arnold Maryland
Would be a good time to check the

"3-4. VIBRATION DAMPER AND SEAL MAINTENANCE"

7. Inspect rubber insert in vibration damper and pulley (6) for cracks. Replace vibration damper and pulley (6) if cracked.

Would be a good time to replace the front engine mount inserts if need be.
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
8,539
2,758
113
Location
Monrovia, Ca.
I have sets of hoses, all except heater hoses. PM if interested.

Check the belts. Mucho easier to do with an open front.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
Thoroughly rinse that radiator, the bottoms are prone to build up some serious spooge.
 

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
Well, I seem to be facing a little setback. I took the old thermostat and put it in hot water on the stove, and it seems to open up at 180 like it should. For the sake of comparison I put the brand new one in with it. The new one opens a little faster and a little further, but not a whole lot. I'll attach a couple pics.

Man, if my overheating problem isn't the thermostat...water pump?

The coolant that came out was clean, green, and not at all sludgey or solids in it. I think maybe this has been done not too long ago...
 

Attachments

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
Triple check that bottom tank. Might need to rod out the radiator or put it back on the CLR flush it!
 

LanceRobson

Well-known member
1,638
206
63
Location
Pinnacle, Stokes County, NC
JC, was the truck running cool and then began overheating or is it new to you and it overheats?

Is there any chance the belts were slipping? Does the fan hub turn freely? When you look through the radiator hose fittings, particularly the lower one do you see any scale or crud? If the belts were tight, the water pump turns freely and the pump does not have any signs of leaking there are still other thing to check.

Was there any oil in the coolant you drained? Is there any visible scale or crud in the engine as observed through the hose fittings? Does the radiator have any dirt, crud or say, 4 coats of paint on it? If you look into the hoses is the inner liner of the hose intact? If you squeeze them while looking into them does anything look out of place? Is there any white smoke in the exhaust? Have you been loosing or gaining coolant? Is there any sign of coolant in the crankcase oil?

Leaving the cooling syasem for a moment, When some trucks had turbos added the job was done "down and dirty". The fuel injection timing should have been changed from 25 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) to 20 degrees BTDC. The timing marks will never be easier to see than when the radiator is out. I'd check the timing. Heck, when we put a new radiator in our M35A2C we checked it just for giggles.

Good luck

Lance
 

emmado22

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,058
147
63
Location
Mid Hudson Valley NY
Run the check as per the TM on the water temp sensor. You dont want to find out that the brass sensor has welded itself to the Aluminum manifold, go thru all the pain of removing it, and it turns out NOT to be the problem.
I'll put my money on a radiator that needs to be cleaned out.
 

Capt.Marion

Active member
1,811
15
38
Location
Atlanta, GA
Run the check as per the TM on the water temp sensor. You dont want to find out that the brass sensor has welded itself to the Aluminum manifold, go thru all the pain of removing it, and it turns out NOT to be the problem.
I'll put my money on a radiator that needs to be cleaned out.
Trust me, it can be EXCITING to remove it.
 

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
JC, was the truck running cool and then began overheating or is it new to you and it overheats?

Is there any chance the belts were slipping? Does the fan hub turn freely? When you look through the radiator hose fittings, particularly the lower one do you see any scale or crud? If the belts were tight, the water pump turns freely and the pump does not have any signs of leaking there are still other thing to check.

Was there any oil in the coolant you drained? Is there any visible scale or crud in the engine as observed through the hose fittings? Does the radiator have any dirt, crud or say, 4 coats of paint on it? If you look into the hoses is the inner liner of the hose intact? If you squeeze them while looking into them does anything look out of place? Is there any white smoke in the exhaust? Have you been loosing or gaining coolant? Is there any sign of coolant in the crankcase oil?

Leaving the cooling syasem for a moment, When some trucks had turbos added the job was done "down and dirty". The fuel injection timing should have been changed from 25 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) to 20 degrees BTDC. The timing marks will never be easier to see than when the radiator is out. I'd check the timing. Heck, when we put a new radiator in our M35A2C we checked it just for giggles.

Good luck

Lance
I've had the truck since Dec. 30th but only got plates for it this week. It made the 50-mile trip from Frankfort to my house at normal temp, back in Dec. But since I've started driving it last week, I've noticed it running on the high side of the temp gauge. If I've run it for a while, I'm also noticing some coolant spitting out of the radiator cap after shut down. Not a lot, and no big steam spray--just a few drops.

No oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, that I can see.

I was surprised how clean it looked. There is a very fine / thin amount of sediment in some of the inlets but nothing caked or major to my eye.

Everything was tight with the belts. I guess to see if the water pump turns freely, I need to remove the alt belts? Otherwise I can't turn it without turning the crank shaft.

The thing I thought was a little odd: I got maybe 7 gallons of coolant out. Now, I didn't open the block drain like it says in the TM (yet) but I've got the radiator totally off, upper and lower hoses removed as well. I'm sure there's some in the block but I wonder how much? Capacity is like 37 quarts and I've recovered maybe 28-30 at the most...
 

jwright

New member
235
1
0
Location
Freeman Mo
You might want to change the front main seal while you are at it. It cost like $23 bucks. If you are torn down that far
you might as well put a new one in.
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
8,539
2,758
113
Location
Monrovia, Ca.
Make sure the fan is on the correct way. Looking at the old stat it shows that there was a seal there, make sure it is still there. No seal equals the coolant returning to the block loop and not going through the radiator. Verify the dash gauge with a known good one. Remember electric gauges are prone to failure more than mechanical gauges.
 

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
Napa part numbers:

Thermostat: THM358180
Seal: 4662
Housing gasket: THM1040ST

I haven't tried installing all these yet but these are the parts I bought.

Here's my planned course of action at this point:

The belts are not bad but I see some little cracks so I'm going to replace all belts and hoses. Is the lower radiator hose a NAPA part? I have one that gimpyrob gave me but the diameter is too large (gimpy, do you want it back?)

Then I think I'm going to try installing everything and running just straight water in the coolant for a test run. If it works, I'll drain it and put antifreeze in.

Sound reasonable?

Edit: OH, and I'll replace the radiator cap and run the TM test on the sending unit also.
 
Last edited:

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
You might want to change the front main seal while you are at it. It cost like $23 bucks. If you are torn down that far
you might as well put a new one in.
I've tried searching the TM (the -20 PDF file) for this topic but I tried searching "main bearing seal" "front bearing seal" etc to no avail. What section?
 

swbradley1

Modertator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
14,258
1,759
113
Location
Dayton, OH
I just had a similar problem with the heat going out of sight and I changed the thermostat and radiator cap. No luck, it turns out it was a small pinhole leak in the radiator. But you would notice a leak I hope.

Cost $55 to have them pressurize the radiator to 14-15psi and the re-soldered everything and that included putting the mounting bracket back on.

Works great now but I have not road tested it yet.

sw
 
Top