Whoops... just when everything was going right for a change

[sic_transitgloriamundi]

Got my rebuilt injectors and pump back a couple of days ago. Also got some upgraded H4 headlights so I can buy cheaper bulbs now instead of expensive sealed beams. Anyway I installed the injectors today and thought I would have the pump put back on tomorrow. I was shooting to run in the local parade this weekend but looks like that is not going to happen. I pulled the radiator off to have better access to the accessory pulley to run the overhead. I thought that if was a good idea anyway to change the coolant since I just changed the oil. The surge tank says the the coolant was last changed back in 2007. While I will still have the pump back on tomorrow and the radiator put back on, but I have run into another problem. After eating dinner and going back out to to set the last two injectors and valves, the screwdriver tip fell out of the socket I was using. Now we all no where it went. Last I saw, it was heading down the by the push rods and ticking around in the lower recesses of the engine. I went ahead and finished the valve and injectors adjustments and put the valve covers back on. I turned the engine over three more times, nice and easy, to make sure I didn't feel any mechanical resistance. I hope that I just have to drain the oil and the screw bit will come out with the oil, if not I guess I will be trying to pull the oil pan and finding that little sucker. Anyone know how many clearance issues I am going to have with the oil pan? Looks like i may be able to slid it out of there, at least that is what I will be hoping for.

 

[doghead]

You should be able to drop the pan alright.

 

[zguinness]

Been there done that, man. I used to work for Caterpillar and on more than one occasion I had my hand down inside an engine with a magnet trying to fish a bolt, wrench, washer, etc out.

Hopefully you'll find it easily. Good luck.

 

[Tow4]

If you have a bore scope, you can look around for it in the engine and through the drain plug. If it made it all the way to the pan, I wouldn't worry about it. There's a screen on the pickup and it's not going anywhere.

I would be more concerned if it's somewhere that it could get into the rotating mass while the engine is running.

Good luck.

 

[sic_transitgloriamundi]

Haven't had a chance to look for it yet today. Just got back from town. Went ahead and bought six gallons of distilled water to refill the radiator. Tried to get some heavy duty antifreeze but Napa only had one gallon of their store brand in stock. Anyone want to make a good recommendation on antifreeze brands. I would assume that any modern antifreeze that contains an sca would suffice. I have no intention of attempting to start this engine until I find the missing screw bit. It is not worth the risk, just to make it in the parade. Got to go pressure wash a barn for a older gentlemen right now, then going to come home and install the injection pump. How has anyone dealt with the upper engine side bolt on the injection pump? Last time I had to take it off and reinstall it was a nightmare. I cut the side out of a socket and was able to get a grip on it, but something better must exist. Maybe a wobble socket?

 

[Tow4]

For anti-freeze go with an ELC. I am using Rotella ELC in all my diesels. No SCAs to worry about and approved for Cummins. I think Fleetguard is the same thing. You can get concentrate or 50/50. Flush a couple of times with distilled water after your initial flush.

 

[crasheej]

Get a half moon wrench. That's what I use. Box end on both ends.

 

[patracy]

My OCD probably wouldn't allow me to leave a bolt floating in the oil pan. But as long as the bolt isn't in the top end, around the cam/lifters, or most importantly at the drive gears, it poses no harm. But I still wouldn't sleep well at night LOL.

 

[sic_transitgloriamundi]

Got a half moon wrench but the thickness of the wrench walls will not let it seat on the head of the bolt. Maybe I need to find one made with thinner material.

 

[sic_transitgloriamundi]

I have no way of telling where the bolt is at, I do not know if any of the local parts stores have a bore-scope to rent out. I hope that I can drain the oil and fish it out through the drain plug. I turned the motor over very slowly by hand and did not feel any obstruction. I hope that if it was resting anywhere around the cam I shook it down to the pan. Wanted to get back to working on it today, but didn't have time. Had to fix a jeep tj, tomorrow is a yamaha rhino and painting a barn. Guess it has sat this long so another couple of days or maybe a month will not hurt. Still have to cut some access holes to the back baffles in the tanks and have them sandblasted out. Reseal tanks, build said access hole covers, covert to a cheaper more available spin on fuel filter, back flush fuel lines, and a half dozen other little things. The lady caught me looking at a m35a2 online today, after watching me play with this truck I think she thought I am crazy for looking at more.

 

[wreckerman893]

Murphy is an opportunist.

 

[sic_transitgloriamundi]

Well drained the oil today and fished around a little with my little magnet pole, nothing found. Took a break from engine worries and started taking my tanks apart. Found the source of my issues. Tanks are dirty, contaminated, and rusty. Took a putty knife and scraped the bottom of one tank and I can not describe what came out. Looks like straight molasses and smells awful. Algae growth or something, I do not know. Figuring my best options for tank cleaning or replacement. Talked to a local sandblaster and that would be the cheapest, but have to cut into the tanks. Wish I could find some plastic replacement tanks, but have had no luck so far. Have called and looked for someplace to get them dipped and boiled out, but no luck in my area. The closest city of large size would be Indianapolis, anyone know of a place there that could do it. Until then back to random radiator, chrome shop, and heavy truck service shop calls.

 

[Rifleman]

Ah yes, it's amazing what a little water condensation mixed will fuel will do to the inside of your fuel tank. Then when you add in 15 to 20 years for the water to work it's magic you end up with whats on the end of your putty knife! This is the reasons our boss always told us to keep the fuel tanks topped off in our trucks, he said it cuts down on water condensation in the tanks along with all the problems that come along with water in the fuel.

 

[sic_transitgloriamundi]

Thought I had a good place to get those tanks boiled out, but at last the office clerk did not know what she was taking about. Upon calling the shop back after everyone got back from lunch, the shop foreman informed me that there tanks where not big enough. Back to calling random shops on Monday. Guess I could still media blast them, but do not really what to cut into them.

 

[doghead]

You could acid clean them yourself. Messy but doable.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Acid or vinegar. I vote acid for timeliness though. Also there is a chemical you can get from Brownell's called rust release or steel white that is ph neutral, removes rust like nothing I've ever seen before, and won't attack the steel at all. I use it in restorations of old guns that people bring in that are badly rusted. It is kinda pricey though at 16 bucks per gallon. I might also add that it is reusable.

 

[sic_transitgloriamundi]

Well got the injector pump put back on today. Fired and and idles well. Good feeling to hear it run again after letting it sit broke down for so long. Going to head to town after a bit and get some dishwasher soap and vinegar and flush the cooling system a couple of times before I dump a 100 dollars of antifreeze in it. Seems to be smoking heavy on acceleration now. Smoke looks white, but does not smell of coolant. I have yet to let it run for more than a couple of minutes, still running off of a bucket of clean fuel for now until I do something about my tanks. Hopefully the white smoke is just water condensation in the engine from sitting. Need to get some more fuel when I go to town so I can let it run long enough to warm up and see if problem persist. Anyone know the proper TM section to look in for setting the VS governor for crane operation. The plunger was broken but I had the injection shop fix it, but upon breaking the upper arm over the idle goes down and not up. Been looking through the TM's but have yet to find the information I need. I have a rather good idle on how to set the extra governor speed but would like to find the tech section before I try.