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will 52's fit on a deuce without adding more lift?

snakeater

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Just wondering if anyone had tried it, I have a line on a set. Won't do me any good if they won't fit under the truck without lifting it. It will be bobbed soon and was gonna go with the 395's, until I found these. Snakeater
 

Recovry4x4

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Let me clarify one thing. The will work as Don said but after you bob the truck. They will not fit with the tandem rear suspension.
 

snakeater

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good to know, I will go ahead and get this cooking. No problem with a tandem, my truck doesn't have them any more. Thanks guys for the information. Snakeater
 

donkdonk

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Norman, OK
I have a set and I am not sure how they would fit. My 395's rub on the front, and you have to put the trailer frame or 4x4's between the rear frame and the 105 trailer bed or it will rub there. How can you fit 7 more inches without rubbing?
 

HeadWizard

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I have a set and I am not sure how they would fit. My 395's rub on the front, and you have to put the trailer frame or 4x4's between the rear frame and the 105 trailer bed or it will rub there. How can you fit 7 more inches without rubbing?
Probably has to do with the wheel offset that you use. Mine has a cut down deuce bed and not an M105 bed on the back. When I turn full lock and hit a bump on the inboard side, it will rub. Never had an issue in the rear.
 

javedev

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OK, lets do this in one stop. The 52's or 46's or 48's all require a "0" offset wheel. With a 105 or a cargo bed you will want to block and the rear axle to get the rake to the truck for looks. Then use a walking beam track bar to stop the wheel hop, and the rear end is all set. The front will likely need some exhaust mods and some extra leaf springs added to the pack to allow proper clearance at full articulatiom. If you run on road only it may be all right. From a power to gearing consideration the 46'2 are the best combo unless your going to get more power somehow. 52's are best on 5 tons with stock power. Good Luck! Jose
 

snakeater

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I will probably be cutting down the stock bed, and not using a 105 bed. My truck will retain the stock front tandem location. I am not lengthening the driveshaft. If I have an issue with clearance for the fuel tank I will move it into the bed or get crafty and cut down the battery box and slide the fuel tank forward. I plan to have a zero or negative departure angle in the rear of the truck for offroad purposes. I also plan on working on the front winch bumper after the bob work is done to decrease the approach angle up there as well. I would ike the tires to contact what I am going over before the bumper or truck body.

Someone posted a comment about a walking beam track bar being needed to control wheel hop, do you have any pics of this?? I figured i would jump the wheel hop ditch when i came to it, but would like a good idea to start with.
 
276
22
18
Location
Hobart, WA
I am running 48's (14.00r20 michelin XL's) with both rear axles still... I lengthened the control arms to spread the axles 4"- As for the fuel tank it barely fits after being slid forward 1.25" - you can shorten the battery box door after moving the latch on top of the battery tray support (I cut the rear flange of the battery tray outrigger off flush with the hat channel)

Due to this fact there you would be hard pressed to put a 53 in the OEM middle axle position without crowding the tank alot. Since you are getting rid of the buggy leaf / control arm arrangement why not slide the rear axle back 4 or 5 more inches and not mess with the tank at all?

Up front I have a little bit clearance lock to lock with no rubbing so looks possible to do a larger tire with the correct offset.

Matt
 

snakeater

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we will see this weekend. Most of the bobbing was finished today. Air ride seats next and 53's with double beadlocks. Nexr upgrade power steering.....Snakeater
 

rottiedog

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New Bern, NC
14.00x20

my 14.00's hit the exhaust during really light off-roading. Everything else seems fine. I know I would need some lift to go bigger.
 

snakeater

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jackson, tn.
rottiedog,

That's one thing that I had already considered. if the tire hits the exhaust up fron then I plan to relocate it. I wanted to move it behind the cab anyway. Maybe a set of 8" slash cut stacks with the flappers on them.......Hmmmm. Snakeater
 

rottiedog

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New Bern, NC
I would like to move the exhaust too. Behind the cab would be perfect. I don't think I have the room for it now and the bed is centered on the wheels so I can't just slide the M105 back a little.
 
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