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Winch and Bumper Project

rustystud

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The weight of the winch is not an issue at all. It weighs less than the stock M35 winch would. I'd be more concerned with the weight of all those nuts and bolts and the additional bumper.
I'm sure I'm under the weight of a regular deuce with factory winch. I don't have any drivelines to mess with either.
 

Hard Head

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I am glad you are preaching snatch blocks. I try to tell everyone to use them religiously. It also allows for you to get more cable off of the winch which again increases its pulling capacity. Are you going to put a plate on the bumper to mount the fairlead?
 

Valence

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That's looking top notch Mr. Rustystud! I love watching your projects, even more so that you separate the threads into topics versus a single build thread. Perhaps more for you to keep track up, but it's easier for someone like myself to digest and follow by topic/task.
 

V8srfun

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If it is not to much could you post a pic of the front of the truck from a few yards back. I really like the way it looks up close but I am trying to get a idea of what it looks like with whole truck in prospective.

Rusty i I just want to compliment you on the quality of work you do it is always top notch quality work.
 

98G

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Rusty, I know you're a competent welder. Clearly there's a reason you chose to go with bolts instead of welding.

I am in the planning stage of a similar project - mounting an 18k warn winch on a 5ton. I have a complete frame from a parts truck to work with. I had intended to weld the winchmount using channel and the parts truck inner frame, then bolt that assembly into the frame rails of the target truck.

Perhaps you could educate me as to why you chose bolts over welding...
 

Hard Head

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It is probably easier to handle with bolts than welding. On the Peterbilt and Freightliner frame material I have, they all have a do not weld sticker on them.
 

V8srfun

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The heat from the wielding changes the hardness of the frame and could potentially make the frame weak. With bolting you are not sacrificing frame strength and eliminating the possibility of poor wield penetration. Plus you can't paint/ protect the bare material that was ground if you wield. When you bolt on you can paint and protect from rust and corrosion.
 

99nouns

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Ocala, FL
Actually this winch will be able to do just about anything I need it to do. I was in "Tanks" in the Marines and they taught us how to get out of almost any situation. In fact one of the courses required for graduating was "Advanced Rigging and Retrieval" . At one point they would take us and our M60 tank (which weighs in at 60 tons ) into a OPEN field that was nothing but a bog. There we where told to drive our tank until we couldn't. At this point your tank is sunk to the top of the tracks ( about 4.5 ft ) .We got it out without a winch. Later on in civilian life, my best friend bought a 5 ton dump truck. It had to be moved from a field in winter here which means mud. The owner had sold his land and needed all his vehicles gone so he sold the dump truck for $200.00 . It hadn't run in two years and the tires where all flat. We needed to move it 400ft to get a heavy haul trailer near it. I had just bought a 1979 IHC Scout with winch and said I could do it. It took 5 hours and 4 snatch blocks and about 100ft of 3/8" chain, but we did it. That truck weighed as much or more then our deuce does and all it's tires where flat and there was over a foot of mud. I only had a 8,000 Ibs Warn winch to pull it out. If you know what your doing and have the necessary tools ( snatch blocks, chains etc.) you can do amazing things. I always carry over 100ft of 3/8" chain in buckets and snatch blocks with me in my M1034 and in my deuce. So I don't see a problem getting stuck.
Will you take a apprentice? I would love to learn.
 

infidel got me

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I would love to have you run me through your winch class- I wish I only lived closer. I'd even volunteer to haul 300ft of cable and hook-up to stuck vehicle. My experience with these winches is that when they are loaded/pulling the overload switch would pop, they just seemed to not have enough umph? Idk I would love to learn the right way to recover a big stuck truck or a TANK for that matter. I'm sure I'm not the only one doin' it wrong. Well I have to update your status-- you are the Charlie Daniels of drillin' and pullin'. lol
 

AZK9

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... it's easier for someone like myself to digest and follow by topic/task.
I agree! :ditto:

Another very well developed project!

I'm in the process of doing something similar to an old, F-150.
I'm planning to tow the Ford behind my deuce with the medium
towbar. Following your progress is giving me a lot of good ideas!

Thanks! [thumbzup]
 

rustystud

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Rusty, I know you're a competent welder. Clearly there's a reason you chose to go with bolts instead of welding.

I am in the planning stage of a similar project - mounting an 18k warn winch on a 5ton. I have a complete frame from a parts truck to work with. I had intended to weld the winchmount using channel and the parts truck inner frame, then bolt that assembly into the frame rails of the target truck.

Perhaps you could educate me as to why you chose bolts over welding...
I'm too old to take the whole thing off in one piece ! Really that is the only reason. As far as the bolts on the frame itself go, you really want to avoid welding on any frame. The possibility of stress fractures are too great.
 

rustystud

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Will you take a apprentice? I would love to learn.
I would love to be able to teach this stuff to anyone who wants to learn. Sadly my son doesn't care at all about mechanics or vehicles or anything outside of his computer. To bad you all live across the nation ! Of course I'm sure the Marines are still teaching this stuff ! (I hope ! )
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
I would love to have you run me through your winch class- I wish I only lived closer. I'd even volunteer to haul 300ft of cable and hook-up to stuck vehicle. My experience with these winches is that when they are loaded/pulling the overload switch would pop, they just seemed to not have enough umph? Idk I would love to learn the right way to recover a big stuck truck or a TANK for that matter. I'm sure I'm not the only one doin' it wrong. Well I have to update your status-- you are the Charlie Daniels of drillin' and pullin'. lol
I'll give you a quick tip. Snatch blocks are your friend ! Also the winch makes the most power at the first layer of line on the drum. So by using snatch blocks to run out the line on the drum your increasing your line pull tremendously. Also each snatch block used "doubles" your line pull ! (Just remember to use the correct size snatch block. It needs to fit the line size your using) . I have with me four snatch blocks at all times. Four times 18,000 Ibs is 72,000 Ibs !!! That's 36 tons of pulling power. Of course my line speed is reduced by a factor of four. So it takes longer , but when your stuck time is all you have ! Now of course there is the line itself. Can it handle 36 tons ? If it is a new line and not damaged (kinks and crushed) and you go slowly you can go over the limit of a line. I'm not recommending this for safety reasons, but if your stuck you need to do what you have to, to get out. Make sure you put a weighted sack or jacket on the line to prevent it from whipping out and taking someone's head off . I won't even get into all the safety factors as that is a class all by itself.
There's also using logs or jacks to help "leverage" your stuck axle out using a winch.
I had to stop myself there ! I was starting to teach a class ! For you guys who really want to learn this there are some TM's out there to help. I'll try and dig out some of my books from my classes. Or you could type in Vehicle Retrieval or Rigging and I'm sure something will come up.
 

rustystud

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The heat from the wielding changes the hardness of the frame and could potentially make the frame weak. With bolting you are not sacrificing frame strength and eliminating the possibility of poor wield penetration. Plus you can't paint/ protect the bare material that was ground if you wield. When you bolt on you can paint and protect from rust and corrosion.
There is paint you can use. It's "weld through" primer. It is high in Zinc and when it melts due to the heat of welding the zinc flows out. Very pricy stuff though. It's just easier and I think better to build the parts, paint them and then assemble them.
 

goldneagle

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I would love to be able to teach this stuff to anyone who wants to learn. Sadly my son doesn't care at all about mechanics or vehicles or anything outside of his computer. To bad you all live across the nation ! Of course I'm sure the Marines are still teaching this stuff ! (I hope ! )
I'm sad to say my sons are the same way. But on the other hand it's good to be needed.
 

Hard Head

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In order to increase the duty cycle and reduce the OLI trip you need to increase the wire size based on the distance to the battery. Never frame ground a winch! Also you need a battery disconnect switch so you can reset the OLI easily. If you only only have 1/0, run 2 in parallel for each conductor back to the battery. I was lucky and bought a spool of 250 CM welding cable for $25 and I just created a front and rear junction box to power everything from via relays or a switch. The larger the conductor the less resistance and therefore the less amp draw. The OLI is equiv to a programmed clamp on amp meter. In 2010 the OLI's were programmed to 277 amps. They were later changed to 300 amps. I have not had mine trip since I increased the conductor size and added 2 batteries to my array. I have up to 6000 cold cranking amps now. If the need occurs I can run 2 winches at the same time. Of course you have to rig the rear winch with snatch blocks for an offset forward pull. But if I ever need it, I have it! I even carry a helicopter 4 point slings so I can tie to multiple anchor points and adjust the placement of the snatch block if necessary. Sometimes I carry too much stuff around :) probably get a few less telephone poles per gallon!
 
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