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Winch load test

jeli

Member
414
1
18
Location
Stillwater, MN
What would be a fair load test of the front winch? The shear pin was out of my truck. I found some 7mm (.276") aluminum rod and want to give it a test. I'm thinking of paying out about 75' of cable and hooking onto my friend's 6200lb Bobcat with rubber tracks. It should give me a decent load to see how this shear pin holds. The alloy is a European std that my engineer can't find a lot of info on other than it has less shear strength than 6061.
 

spicergear

New member
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Millerstown, PA
I'd think a tree and a flat drag would be decent. The winch is there to assist you and you can run'em while the wheels are helping too. Lifing 10K and pulling 10K is different.
 

amanco

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Marion, oHIo
One thing to think about is the strength of the cable rather than the strength of the winch The 7/16" cable on my winch is rated at 17,000 lbs
 

ems4ty

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Get a hold of Saturn Surplus. They have a bunch of the shear pins ready to go. About $3.50 a pin though. I bought 10 of them as I've already broken 2 when I was playing around with the winch. Just a thought.
 

tjcouch

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Location
Tampa, FL
Question: after shearing a pin is there enough friction in the system to reel in the cable without a load on it? Or you have to replace it to get the cable back in?
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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gotta put another pin in it or just a bolt to get it wound back up. DO NOT use it with a bolt installed.
 

ems4ty

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Ditto! Once the pin is sheared, its it and thats that. I managed to bust 3 shear pins total - all of which were from reeling in the winch and hooking it to the bumper. Except the lever on the winch doesn't like to disengage very easy and before I knew it, POP there it goes. Better to have two people on the reeling in portion, at least on my truck. That way the operator in the cab could just step in the clutch and no more worries. Not very practical when by yourself though. Hence the reason why I have a few extra's laying around.

BTW, Replacing the pin takes a couple of seconds. Just need two cotter pins to hold the pin in place.
 

builder77

In Memorial
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I pretty sure the only way to get an accurate test of winching capacity is to have a strain gauge placed between the winch cable and an unmovable object.
 

Towerguy1

New member
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Location
Central Maine
I wound about 85' in by hand once. Yes it can be done in freewheel mode, but you won't like it much! The PTO shaft will just spin without the pin.
 

tjcouch

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Location
Tampa, FL
Ah ha! I found it! Thanks Emmado! For any other newbies out there:

TM 9-2320-361-10
3-16. FRONT WINCH SHEARPIN REPLACEMENT

I had no idea it was on the drive shaft - that's easy! I was thinking it was on the winch housing somewhere buried.
 
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Your beat test of the winch on an M-35 is to anchor the cable to a solid object, with an unloaded M-35 the 10,000# winch will drag it with all 10 tires locked. The M-35 only has roughly 6000# of pull resistance even on asphault. Now buried to the hubs or deeper is another story.
Do NOT perform this test unless the cable, spelter, cahin and hook are in good condition, loose winch lines are dangerious.
P.S., The cable on the 10,00# Garwood is rated at 20,000# + ultimate strength.
 

Cdub

New member
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Location
New Milford, NJ
emmado22 said:
the -10 has all you need to know about the mechanics of what to shift when winching and replacing the pin.

for some reason, I knew you were going to say that..............

Cheers,

C'dub
 

spicergear

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Location
Millerstown, PA
The cable should be 1/2" and much stronger than the winch or pin...for aluminum pin people.

I hate to say it but I think trying to pop out the engagement handle while the pto is spooling in is asking for trouble. There can develop a lot of pressure on the engagement dogs from just weight of cable, drag chain and hook, to overcome by that small handle. I have a 20K on my truck and will go in and out of the cab three times, if necessary, using the pto and foot clutch to get it where I want it, then get out and disengage it at the bumper. They're not a multi-person operation by any means if you just take your time and stay away from that meat wrecker when it's on the way in.

One other thing to think about: You guys with the nice fat full spool of cable (think around 200' stock) are just asking to break the winch if you get in a pinch. That full spool only allows about two layers on top of it, which isn't a lot of cable footage, if you're in a pinch and need to pull not directly from in front of the truck. Those metal fairleads are for that purpose to guide the cable in if an angled pull is absolutely necessary until a more straight pull can be made BUT the problem is that if the cable 'stacks' up on the drive side there's a possibility of it blowing that bottom support bar right out of the drive side casting...taking a chunk of the casting with it and destroying the winch. I'm not speculating, I have a winch that had happened to I got from a fire company brush truck. On my M715 with the deuce 10K Garwood I have taken 75' off of the spool and have it down to 125' and this allows a lot more cable footage to be spooled in if your wedged in somewhere. Buy some eyelets and cable clamps and make up a heavy tow cable or rescue cable with that other 75'...or whatever. Beats wrecking a nice winch or having to replace a pin in the muck because the cable stacked up and jammed the winch. You'll need a bolt then--
 

Attachments

mangus580

New member
6,010
282
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Location
Western NY
spicergear said:
I hate to say it but I think trying to pop out the engagement handle while the pto is spooling in is asking for trouble. There can develop a lot of pressure on the engagement dogs from just weight of cable, drag chain and hook, to overcome by that small handle.-
Very True! this is how my top and rear plate came to be replaced with home made ones ;-)

I have no clue how I have not taken the radiator out yet with my winch....
 
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