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winch-shear-pin-driveshaft connection detail

808pants

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Honolulu, HI
Can anyone confirm for me that, with the shear pin gone, I should be able to simply slip the PTO driveshaft back and off of the winch input shaft?

In my case, the winch is a 'spare' that I'm going to adapt to electric-motor drive, so to get started, I need to pull the remainder of the driveshaft off. Oddly, though the shear-pin is long gone from this one, the holes for it are still perfectly aligned. I've of course whacked at the joint to try to get it to slip off of the shaft, but it's not moving easily, if at all - shear-pin hole still looks perfectly aligned through the coupling.

Is there anything that keeps the driveshaft from pulling freely off when the shear-pin is gone, other than years of rust and congealed grease, maybe?

Dave
 

808pants

New member
45
3
0
Location
Honolulu, HI
I don't know if anyone will ever run into this or has before, but apparently whomever sheared the shear-pin off last just kept the PTO engaged with the driveshaft spinning, and the winch input shaft NOT...or maybe it started to turn after a few minutes of spinning and heating up at that join? I'm speculating that there was just a little grease (or none at all) on the shaft within the yoke when that happened. Anyway, what I found - after fabricating some parts to allow a gigantic puller to grip the yoke, and still needing to spend a while to pull the yoke off - was a lot of galling within the yoke's mating surface, like it had been spinning long enough to get hot and redeposit steel here and there.

I can't figure out how it was that the shear-pin holes were PERFECTLY aligned after that event, though. Someone had beaten two of the U-joint cups up getting it back on at some point, so maybe they got it aligned but... decided not to use it again?

Patient use of a cylinder hone brought the yoke interior back to fitting smoothly on the shaft, so all is well.
 
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