Winch Teardown Q

[Wildchild467]

Thanks G!

I did not know there were two styles of drums. I am fairly sure that mine is the NO-through hole drum. It makes sense not having the through style if some GI forgets to unlock the drum. The thought makes me cringe just thinking about it! So basically the NO through hole style is like having a big detent. I am just curious if they use the same pin/spring per style drum. I will check my spring and see how it compares to your specs. I drove my deuce to work for the 4th week in a row, so maybe i can head out on my lunch break and measure it. Thanks again!

 

[JCKnife]

The new shaft gave me an improvement of 5 mm clearance and it was enough! Thank you again gringeltaube for your patience and precision. I owe you a few beers!

 

[gringeltaube]

Hey, no problem - just come to the GA-rally, we can have a few, there...

G.

 

[s4mm4n16]

Hello,
I have been following this thread and am rebuilding 2 winches myself. I have one almost apart and I am trying to get the worm gear out with the bearings on the either end (drum shaft is out). I'm useing TM9-2320-209-2-3 on page 18-9, frame 8, with explanation. I have driven the 1st bearing out/clear of the case. Is there a trick to get the opposite bearing to start into the other side/inside case and the gear and bearings clear of the case. The explanation in the book is a little vague.

 

[m16ty]

The worm should "screw out" fairly easy. Do you have your brake and brake housing removed?

 

[s4mm4n16]

Everything is out of the case. Drum shaft and gear...Everything. All that is left is the worm gear with the bearing on either end. I have driven the assembly out of the case to the front of the winch, as stated in tha manual and I am trying to get the second bearing to pass thru the opposite side bearing opening and I can't get it started, don't want to force it. I am guessing that the bearing are the same outside diameter.

 

[JCKnife]

Yeah the bearings are the same size. The worm gear shaft will push the bearing out. I could never get it to move with a mallet or hammer (with wood in between). The only thing that worked for me was an arbor press. I guess you saw that if you read the thread, though.

 

[s4mm4n16]

I have pushed out one side and the other bearing is still hanging inside the case on the other end of the worm. That is the one I am trying to get out the other side of the case. I will remove the bearings from the worm with a press when I get it out of the case

 

[gringeltaube]

....... That is the one I am trying to get out the other side of the case.......

You can get it out to either the front OR rear side, no problem. Just keep it straight and aligned while pressing- or knocking- out.
Heating the housing (->200F) with a heatgun or torch usually helps.


G.

 

[gringeltaube]

......The explanation in the book is a little vague.

May I add: "...and sometimes just wrong...!" .....??

I'm sure who ever has tried to rebuild his winch "going step x step by the book" can confirm this...!?
(Just wondering if Garwood had approved those instructions?)
Or is it that someone wanted us to use common sense instead, when assembling such simple things...???

One of the latest edition TM's I have, that covers the winch repair in detail is the TM9-2320-361-34, from 1992.
IMHO, the text in Chapter 16, pages 8-10 should/ needs to/ can - be edited; if that was not done already...?
At least have maybe a new sticky in our tech section, with the correct assembling procedure.
I would volunteer to do... but only with the help of other advisor members/ winch-rebuild-experts, that is!
PM me, anyone interested to interchange ideas.

G.

 

[s4mm4n16]

Thanks, I thought they where the same size, just wasn't sure. I'll try it today. My second winch is going to be a problem. Every plug, set screw and a few shafts are frozen. Pretty annoying. I have the same problems with the yoke shaft being stuck. It's rusted on the inside and I'm sure will damage the passage on its way out. Trying to clean off what I can reach and will nurse it out. Would it do any good to paint any of the internal parts to prevent future rust?

 

[JCKnife]

As much as they rub and contact each other, I doubt it. But keeping a running winch properly lubed should prevent future rust.

 

[cev65]

Whats an easy way to get the wormgear out without screwing up the bearings?? Or could i take the key ways out of the other side of the winch and pull the spool off. All i need to do is to replaced the seal on the drum on the worm gear side.

 

[JCKnife]

Whats an easy way to get the wormgear out without screwing up the bearings?? Or could i take the key ways out of the other side of the winch and pull the spool off. All i need to do is to replaced the seal on the drum on the worm gear side.

There's no reason you should be removing the worm gear in order to replace that seal. In fact you have to have the drum off long before you even get to that step, if you are following the TM.

The seal on that end is in the drum itself, not the end housing.

 

[cev65]

I understand that but i cant get the keyways out of the main shaft to pull the drum off, so i was goin to take the worm gear out and go from that end.

 

[JCKnife]

I understand that but i cant get the keyways out of the main shaft to pull the drum off, so i was goin to take the worm gear out and go from that end.

That's not going to work, you won't be able to get that big main gear off the shaft from that end. See post #63 in this thread for a tip from G-man. I can't be much help, mine were finger-loose on both winches I did.

 

[cev65]

Thank ya much. I tried that last nite but ill keep trying. Just a little scared of screwing those key ways up.

 

[JCKnife]

Thank ya much. I tried that last nite but ill keep trying. Just a little scared of screwing those key ways up.

I wouldn't be too afraid. After rebuilding 2 of these, my sense is it's more a machine of brute force than of precision. If you ding up one of the keys a little, grind it smooth again and it'll be fine.

From working with much smaller shaft keys, I found that tapping from different directions and angles usually worked. Try heat and PB blaster, too.

 

[m16ty]

The keys can be really stuck sometimes. Take a cold chisel, angle in on the key facing upward, and drive it out. Sometimes you'll destroy the key doing this but it shouldn't hurt the shaft and new keys are readily available. If you don't chew it up too bad you can knock down the edges with a file and reinstall them.

 

[gringeltaube]

And related to that: I have often encountered deformation of the shaft surface, around the keyways; so much that it would not slip out/in, without damaging the soft brass bushings in the drum- and gear end housing.

So, once the keys are out, get a fine-grane file and "check" those areas for any high spots; before anything else!




G.