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Winches; front, back and frame mounted.

B-Dog

Well-known member
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The roller chock could be mounted anywhere along the frame between the rear rollers and the winch itself, although I think further back will help with the cable angles feeding off the drum. I'm thinking somewhere in the vicinity of the mud flap arm mount, but to be fair, I'm not looking at the truck right now, so "somewhere" it might fit...?

I agree, the factory rollers are beefy enough to do the job they were intended to do, I'm just looking to complicate things by feeding from the drum around a hefty pulley in the rear and all the way back out the front. That way I never need to re-route the line front/rear in hip deep mud and I end up with easy single line pulling from the front and easy double line pulling from the rear.

If I'm understanding this correctly, it's ingenious. You've got my attention, gitrdun!
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
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North of Cincy OH
Yep, the turnaround structure and how it interfaces with the frame needs to be considered very carefully as that point will see the greatest force. The rear roller feed and support structure on the LMTV will not support this without some more support structure added.
@tennmogger I believe has built/used a Foers winch set up on his Mog at one point. If I recall right he used a pretty large sheave to make the 90 turn of the cable. 4? 6? or 8" maybe?
 

Guruman

Not so new member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
OH yea the yellow one on lmtv able on utube so why is it going to have 40k of force on a fairlead ?
I am planning on modifying the 5 ton variant of the factory winch in my setup into a foers setup. I that configuration the winch line will exit the factory winch drum from the top, and extend towards the rear where it will pass over a pulley/sheave that re-directs the line all the way back out the front (passing underneath the drum). Due to the physics, that pulley, when pulling from the front will see 20k (Ok really like 18K) of force from the winch drum, and an additional 20k from whatever I'm hooked to. So it has to be super beefy.

The marine "roller chock" I'm looking at is rated for 20 tons, so should do just fine... If I can actually find one.
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
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Port angeles wa
OH yea the yellow one on lmtv able on utube so why is it going to have 40k of force on a fairlead ?
Not on the fairlead, on the snatch block that turns the line pull around to the front fairlead. It makes it a 2:1 pull, so that anchor point will see 40k when you pull 20K on the front+ the 20k on the winch. Many of the Foers setups use a custom snatch block that nests in the rear fairlead, so that fairlead structure must support the full 2:1 pull weight…
 

chucky

Well-known member
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TN .
Not on the fairlead, on the snatch block that turns the line pull around to the front fairlead. It makes it a 2:1 pull, so that anchor point will see 40k when you pull 20K on the front+ the 20k on the winch. Many of the Foers setups use a custom snatch block that nests in the rear fairlead, so that fairlead structure must support the full 2:1 pull weight…
ok im catching up to this foers thing under the truck !
 

Gunny 0369

Marine Gunnery Sergeant
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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North Carolina
You might be the only one. I can't kick up a single image or video of it happening. What were you doing? Crazy angles? somersaults? Air drop?
😂
Google
“mistakes I made that I don’t want others to see”
They are in that blog
side note:
Sherpa’s 25 k only comes with alum fairlead
 

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tennmogger

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Greenback, TN
@tennmogger I believe has built/used a Foers winch set up on his Mog at one point. If I recall right he used a pretty large sheave to make the 90 turn of the cable. 4? 6? or 8" maybe?
Hey George. I have the double-ended system on a 404 Unimog. In 1968 I had that system on a 1952 M-38 Jeep. Same system that eventually became known as Foers system.

http://www.rockymountainmoggers.com/bobmoglite.html has an old write-up on the initial configuration on the Mog from the '90's, including some newer photos as it evolved. The "turn-around" in the rear frame cross-member is never going to have to handle more than winch capacity because compounding with sheaves takes place beyond the bumpers. This turnaround pulley is theoretically about half as big as recommended (12") but has never caused any weakness or cork-screwing of the cable.

A use of the double-ended system that is seldom mentioned is as a stabilizer cable for severe slope, driving around a hill where the tendency is to 'fall off' the hill. By configuring a double-line sheave on front, and one on the rear, with the cable passing through the vehicle, one can anchor front and rear to the added sheaves, tension the winch, and then drive along the pass-through cable. That way the vehicle can pass a severe side-hill, or washed out road, etc, with it's own winch providing a safety line. Also, if either end sheave is anchored, and a pull is done at the other end's doubled line sheave, the vehicle can winch "from the middle' of the setup and have no need to lock brakes, dig tires in, whatever, because the winching vehicle has no tendency to move. All the force goes to the anchor point.
 
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Gunny 0369

Marine Gunnery Sergeant
Steel Soldiers Supporter
283
638
93
Location
North Carolina
Hey George. I have the double-ended system on a 404 Unimog. In 1968 I had that system on a 1952 M-38 Jeep. Same system that eventually became known as Foers system.

http://www.rockymountainmoggers.com/bobmoglite.html has an old write-up on the initial configuration on the Mog from the '90's, including some newer photos as it evolved. The "turn-around" in the rear frame cross-member is never going to have to handle more than winch capacity because compounding with sheaves takes place beyond the bumpers. This turnaround pulley is theoretically about half as big as recommended (12") but has never caused any weakness or cork-screwing of the cable.

A use of the double-ended system that is seldom mentioned is as a stabilizer cable for severe slope, driving around a hill where the tendency is to 'fall off' the hill. By configuring a double-line sheave on front, and one on the rear, with the cable passing through the vehicle, one can anchor front and rear to the added sheaves, tension the winch, and then drive along the pass-through cable. That way the vehicle can pass a severe side-hill, or washed out road, etc, with it's own winch providing a safety line. Also, if either end sheave is secured, and a pull is done at the other ends doubled line sheave, the vehicle can winch "from the middle' of the setup and have no need to lock brakes, dig tires in, whatever, because the winching vehicle has no tendency to move.
Interesting setup.

m38! Any pics of that system on the 38?
Here’s my winch system on my 51 38.

74D7F598-8C40-44AD-9C5D-622F5D4FEDDD.jpeg
 

tennmogger

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Greenback, TN
Nice looking M-38! Regretably my M-38 became my family car (only vehicle) for years and got "bubba-fied" to keep it safe. The winch was taken off. The same type "winch", in reality a 24v bomb hoist, can be seen as the "deck winch" on the Unimog in the Rockymountainmoggers article.

I like the Sisal rope. An original recovery tool, the original kinetic recovery rope even!!
 

Gunny 0369

Marine Gunnery Sergeant
Steel Soldiers Supporter
283
638
93
Location
North Carolina
Nice looking M-38! Regretably my M-38 became my family car (only vehicle) for years and got "bubba-fied" to keep it safe. The winch was taken off. The same type "winch", in reality a 24v bomb hoist, can be seen as the "deck winch" on the Unimog in the Rockymountainmoggers article.

I like the Sisal rope. An original recovery tool, the original kinetic recovery rope even!!
😆 works great, except it takes 2 hours to unravel off the bumper.
 
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