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When the frame seal is installed, does the convex side go toward the windshield frame or the front of the vehicle?
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Windshield Frame Seal Orientation
- Thread starter Tinwoodsman
- Start date
- 6,987
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Convex? Anyways, see it here....
G.
G.
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Thanks G. I have attached a picture of the seal I removed and it is identical to the new one. So the convex side will go toward the windshield frame. Thanks as always.
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armytruck63
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You will know if you installed the seal the wrong way the first time you drive in the rain!
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AT. Thanks for the insight but I would prefer to run this to ground before I install the seal. 
Good luck. I purchased two new windshields for my 814. After installing the windshield, I found that the rubber wouldn't let the frames close so that I could latch the windows.
I had to change the rubber so I could get the window closed. Rode in the rain the other day, and no leaks( at least around the rubber)
I had to change the rubber so I could get the window closed. Rode in the rain the other day, and no leaks( at least around the rubber)
Jake0147
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I asked about this previously an was given good advice. The windows will be about half a tug short of exploding in your face by the time you get the latches latched. The new gaskets take their new shape quickly. and that issue goes away before you know it. Park with the window facing the strongest sun helps speed the process.
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Yes, GOOD luck!
Depending where they come from (Newstar?) it can happen that they won't close at all no matter what tricks you try out (heated the rubber seal all around, lubed with silicon grease, etc) And if you finally managed to get it latched - come back next morning and check if glass is still in one piece....! Don't ask how I ............
BTW, just found this one: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/windshield-rubber-install.19367/#post198144
G.
Depending where they come from (Newstar?) it can happen that they won't close at all no matter what tricks you try out (heated the rubber seal all around, lubed with silicon grease, etc) And if you finally managed to get it latched - come back next morning and check if glass is still in one piece....! Don't ask how I ............
BTW, just found this one: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/windshield-rubber-install.19367/#post198144
G.
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Thanks guys. G, that is a super thread you pointed me to. A picture is worth a thousand words.
Kent
Kent
Barrman
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I found that the little raised corner rib goes to the outside of the truck. Which matches up with the picture a few post up:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/paint-bodywork/19367-windshield-rubber-install.html
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/paint-bodywork/19367-windshield-rubber-install.html
Heavysteven
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How much and where did you get the seals from?
Barrman
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I got mine from ABLinn. I think the last set was around $25.00 on Ebay. I am sure others have them to sell as well.
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Barrman, G. pointed me to your thread on installation I am using it a gospel going forward. Wish me luck.
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WOW, I learned something today, that the front windows do in fact SEAL, I always thought rain gear was part of the BII for the driver
- 6,987
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Yes, and no, depending how many hours you are willing to invest.....LOL
I got the cheap-chin aftermarket WS assys and it took me a whole weekend to get them working properly AND sealing! That included complete disassembly, cutting/ rewelding/ reinforcing the frame, sandblast, paint, installing new ( this time correct size) glass, etc, etc.
Some pics, below....
G.
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roady
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I just bought a set of the aftermarket ones.... I hope they are not to bad off.... I always seem to read this stuff a day late...
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I started this thread about a month ago to prepare to install my windshield rubber seals. Thanks to responses many of you and past posts by Barrman, Dabtl, Gringeltaube and Gimp, I got the info needed and installed the seals today. It took me 10 minutes per window once I had everything together and I am very pleased with the results. Here are some basic tips I can pass along.
- Start with smooth clean frames and make sure the groves are clean
- Find your self a butter knife with a rounded edge
- Use a glove on the knife hand
- Use dish soap on the seal prior to insertion
Start at the corners and lay the outside face of the windshield up. Insert the inside edge of the seal on both sides of the first corner and seat the outside edge about one inch on each side using the thick side of the butter knife rounded edge. Use the knife to roll the edge outside lip of the seal into the groove. Do the same on the other corner and work toward the middle of the bottom windshield edge. Finish with the sides and voila, you are done. The photos show the butter knife I used (don't tell momma) with the rounded edge with the blade being thicker on the upper side. The finished product and a corner close up. Good luck and I hope this helps.
- Start with smooth clean frames and make sure the groves are clean
- Find your self a butter knife with a rounded edge
- Use a glove on the knife hand
- Use dish soap on the seal prior to insertion
Start at the corners and lay the outside face of the windshield up. Insert the inside edge of the seal on both sides of the first corner and seat the outside edge about one inch on each side using the thick side of the butter knife rounded edge. Use the knife to roll the edge outside lip of the seal into the groove. Do the same on the other corner and work toward the middle of the bottom windshield edge. Finish with the sides and voila, you are done. The photos show the butter knife I used (don't tell momma) with the rounded edge with the blade being thicker on the upper side. The finished product and a corner close up. Good luck and I hope this helps.
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SasquatchSanta
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For future consideration here is a modification that won't leak.
The frame in the attached pictures is for my M37 but the principle is the same.
Fed up with the rain and Minnesota winter coming in on me I went to a shop that builds cab components for heavy equipment and had a piece of sheet metal cut. They also supplied two pieces of cut safety glass and the rubber molding. The cost was $200.00.
Prepping the frame and welding in the sheet metal panel was time consuming but worth the effort.
It's not original but it's an option that works.
The frame in the attached pictures is for my M37 but the principle is the same.
Fed up with the rain and Minnesota winter coming in on me I went to a shop that builds cab components for heavy equipment and had a piece of sheet metal cut. They also supplied two pieces of cut safety glass and the rubber molding. The cost was $200.00.
Prepping the frame and welding in the sheet metal panel was time consuming but worth the effort.
It's not original but it's an option that works.
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