Wiper motor replacement O-rings?

[TexAndy]

I was going to replace the wipers on my whistler with the wipers from my REO parts truck today, but discovered that one of the REO wiper motors was completely seized up.

Took it apart, but had to cut one of the o-rings to get the piston out. It's also going to need another gasket or two.

What is the exact size o-ring for these things? The other ring is good, but I think it might have swelled or something.

Second question:

Does anyone make a wiper motor rebuild kit?

Finally:

If the actual problem with my whistler deuce's wiper motors is in the side of the motor with the little red button, what are my options?

 

[TexAndy]

No one?

Hm. They appear to be 1.5" ID and 5/32" thickness O-rings. Anyone got the official numbers?

 

[runk]

Don't know the sizes, when I cleaned mine out all the o-rings were ok.

But, you could try:
O-Ring Division - Parker

and/or search for
Parker O-Ring Handbook ORD 5700

This will give you way more info then you want, and after a few days you might figure out the right size.

I would take the parts and old o-rings into a local Parker distributor, and ask. I've had pretty good luck with other old and weird (non-MV) o-rings that way.

Good luck,

 

[Barrman]

Andy,
Your REO ones are metal, right? I had to pull all 4 of my metal ones apart to get 2 good working units. I just used an o-ring from my old cigar box full of mix matched sizes. I would suggest that you take the parts to a real auto parts store that has a display case full of rings and test fit until you find the one that feels right to you.

Does your REO have the offset wiper mounts? If so, is your drivers side glass and frame any good? I have a good offset passernger side, but not a good drivers side.

Jeff, Since we are talking old parts here. I have a set of good solid newer style rear mud flaps to swap in there. I should have just gotten the wrenches out Saturday night and talked you into it then.

 

[deathrowdave]

These are standard Orimgs any good hardware store or autoparts will be able to take care of you . Lube the new Orings with air tool oil of ATF . Good luck and be safe

 

[TexAndy]

Barrman: Actually, no they weren't the metal ones. They were the replacement plastic ones.

This was an REO that went through alot of the fleet upgrades. It had and LDT-465-1D engine in it. But it did still have the older REO style fenders that extend farther into the engine compartment.

One of the glass and frame sides was good... but I'm going to use it on another truck of mine that needs it, sorry.

 

[Barrman]

Worth a try.

That gasket is pretty thin. A small ball peen hammer will cut a new gasket out in no time. Just don't hit the housing too hard, use thin gasket material and something small and sharp for the bolt holes.

 

[TexAndy]

Well, I rehabbed one of the air motors today.

I just used the old gasket to lay out a pattern for the new one in pencil and cut it out with an exacto-knife.

They had the material at O'Reilly's along with a couple of O-rings that fit pretty good. The O-rings were #219 out of a little red box assortment they had behind the counter. Not quite the same thickness, but they work well.

Put it all back together, hooked it up to the shop compressor... and voila! It works again and no leaks!

Got me to thinking... I have a pretty decent homemade cnc machine. It would not be hard to cut out a whole bunch of these gaskets if there was some interest...

So far as I can tell, the only true obstacle to being able to completely rehab one of these motors is the valve that has the red button. If that valve doesn't work, you're kind of stuck trying to fix it just by applying alot of air to either the inlet or the exhaust as there's no way to take that section apart.

The O-rings were about a dollar each. And the gasket material was $8 for a roll big enough to probably do 100+ gaskets. Most time-consuming portion was cutting out the gasket. Everything else was easy.

 

[Kohburn]

that little red button got me - the end poped off so it can't be pressed. That part isn't an issue as it works perfectly so long as the inner part of the red button stays aligned correctly. sometimes it shifts inside and then just leaks air.

anybody have just the end cap of a plastic air motor they want to part with?