Wiper motor wiring / contact assembly

[mgFray]

I finally got around to diagnosing my wiper motor not working. After removing the soft top and side rails, I was able to tilt the windshield forward and found two "contact assembly" ( 5999011839530 ). I cleaned them, added some dielectric grease and got it working.



However, when I re-attached the side rails and soft top, it all stopped working. I suspect it's pushing just slightly forward causing the connection to be lost.

I found that Hummer Parts Guy selling these contact assembly's for around $48 each, I'd need two if I ended up going with this.

However, looking at the TM-9-2320-280-20-3 Maintenance Manual (part 3), Section 10-23. The picture there seems to show a wiring harness and grommet instead. This certain would prevent future failures in the contact assembly.



Is there some sort of wiring harness adapter that I could use to replace the contact assembly? I know I can make my own small harness, but I don't know where I would find a grommet for it though.

Any suggestions on what I should do? Fix it, buy a harness, make a harness, etc?

 

[Action]

The harness with grommet was used on the hardtop models. They didn’t need the windshield to fold down. Some folks have just stuck 3 washers between the saggy connectors to get wipers works again.

 

[mgFray]

The harness with grommet was used on the hardtop models. They didn’t need the windshield to fold down. Some folks have just stuck 3 washers between the saggy connectors to get wipers works again.

I didn't even think of just adding a washer. I'll have to try that tomorrow. Thanks!

(I'm also going to order the proper item, 5999011839530, I found it for $15 a piece at Kascar.)

 

[osteo16]

wavy washers work great.. springy type..

 

[mgFray]

wavy washers work great.. springy type..

I was able to just use some small regular washers. I just covered them in dielectric grease to prevent them from moving and hopefully help them from rusting. There was still plenty of flex in the rubber on the base and windshield frame..

I had not considered using wavy washers to make up the gap, but that sounds like a much better idea as they would flex if the rubber flexes with changes in temp or just the vehicle movement.

 

[Milcommoguy]

How many are really taking the windshield off?

I get once in a while lowering it. Still three Packard connector would work without the possible failure point. Just be sure to label them Ground-Power-Pump.

Hit by a bug driving, CAMO

 

[Mullaney]

How many are really taking the windshield off?

I get once in a while lowering it. Still three Packard connector would work without the possible failure point. Just be sure to label them Ground-Power-Pump.

Hit by a bug driving, CAMO

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A bumble at 50mph will raise a mighty fine knot on your chest for sure!

 

[mgFray]

I have driven in my Jeep Wrangler with the windshield down.. unless you've got a facemark on, I don't recommend above about 20 MPH.. bugs do hurt..

 

[osteo16]

Really depends where your at in the continental United States.. Up north you have the no see ums aka dog nad nats.. Down south you have the nasty skeeters.. Neither of those will put an eye out like the Midwest Cicada, Horsefly, Stink Bug, Japanese beetle, or wife when driving at night with no windshield.. Just saying

 

[mgFray]

Folding down the windshield at a drive-in movie is pretty fun though, but lack of a radio in the M998 seems problematic for that purpose!

 

[jrtoffroad]

For me, lightly prying the contacts to stand proud of the grommet did the trick.

 

[mgFray]

Just got the pair of contact assemblies. Looking at new ones (vs ones on the HMMWV), it's pretty clear they're just metal "buttons" with the wiring 'pin' on them. So if you push the ping out, magically the rubber is pretty much the perfect side for 14 gauge wire. Would be trivial to discard the pins, run three wires through them and just put connectors on both ends, no more lose contacts.

(I'm going to replace mine with the new contacts, but if I run into problems again in the future.. I'll try what I mentioned above, since I don't plan to lower the steering wheel very often, and if the wiring is long enough, it shouldn't be a problem!)

 

[Milcommoguy]

Just got the pair of contact assemblies. Looking at new ones (vs ones on the HMMWV), it's pretty clear they're just metal "buttons" with the wiring 'pin' on them. So if you push the ping out, magically the rubber is pretty much the perfect side for 14 gauge wire. Would be trivial to discard the pins, run three wires through them and just put connectors on both ends, no more lose contacts.

(I'm going to replace mine with the new contacts, but if I run into problems again in the future.. I'll try what I mentioned above, since I don't plan to lower the steering wheel very often, and if the wiring is long enough, it shouldn't be a problem!)

Yep... That's what I said.

Right when U need them, No swish swish, CAMO

 

[Action]

This is a great time to replace the seals between the windshield frame and the body. If not, you will end up getting water pushing through then fogging up the windows all the time.

 

[mgFray]

This is a great time to replace the seals between the windshield frame and the body. If not, you will end up getting water pushing through then fogging up the windows all the time.

Ya I was looking at that stuff. Do you have a pointer to the right type of sealing tape? From what I was looking at, it appears there is a seal on the "front" of the windshield frame where it meets the body, and then on the back where it sandwiches down onto the body.

 

[Action]

I

Ya I was looking at that stuff. Do you have a pointer to the right type of sealing tape? From what I was looking at, it appears there is a seal on the "front" of the windshield frame where it meets the body, and then on the back where it sandwiches down onto the body.

I use
1 5939686 LH edge
1 5939687 RH edge
1 5939685 middle, I THINK

These are sticky on one side. The long one, I stuck to the lowest horizontal surface, just in front of where it turns up. That way, the seal will squish down when you raise the windshield.

these side pieces cover the entire edge of the joint, both vertical and horizontal. From memory, they are about 1/4" thick. I guess any seal from the hardware store will work, just not too firm or it wont squeeze down enough.




EDIT: I was just looking these up on vendor sites. One has 5939687 at 81 cents. Another has it at $7.50 !

 

[mgFray]

Well the washer trick worked a whole 4 days. Wipers no longer work again. This weekend I'll replace them with the new ones I bought. If it fails again, it's getting hard wired. (I suspect he existing grommets are original 1988, so they're flexing pretty quickly....)

 

[Mullaney]

Well the washer trick worked a whole 4 days. Wipers no longer work again. This weekend I'll replace them with the new ones I bought. If it fails again, it's getting hard wired. (I suspect he existing grommets are original 1988, so they're flexing pretty quickly....)

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That's a bummer. We used to remove the factory 24v wiper motors in the rebuild process. (Yeah, 55 gallon drums of them - but that was 30+ years ago) ANYWAY, we had troubles with vehicles that still had hinged windows. I had just ASSuMEd that the replacement parts were just crummy. Turns out that running a second wire in the loom for a proper hardwired ground solved that problem for us.

 

[Lothar]

Can anyone share links to these seals where they are actually in stock? Going through the same problems, wipers only work reliably when its not raining. New contractors on the way but can't seem to find the seals. Thanks in advance.

 

[Action]

Can anyone share links to these seals where they are actually in stock? Going through the same problems, wipers only work reliably when its not raining. New contractors on the way but can't seem to find the seals. Thanks in advance.

The foam seals? Kascar shows them as in stock.