Wire size to use?

[Brad]

My Son's 1952 M135, inherited from my Daddy has been modified to standard shift tranny. Part of that is a different starter motor that is powered by a push button on the dash. When Dad did this he just used a piece of light electric extension cord for the two wires need. We often get a click-click when pushing the button. I have been told that it may be because the wire is too small? So I am going to run new wires. But first I thought someone with more knowledge than me would suggest a more correct wire size?

Funny thing is, this never happened until after we had the starter rebuilt after the Bendix broke. Myself, I think it is a grounding issue because we cleaned and painted everything up real nice before putting the starter back on. If I take a screw driver and twist it between the starter and bell housing it seems to work better. My next move will be to remove the starter and un-paint everything where they contact. Maybe even add a ground wire.
The folks that rebuilt the starter say it is fine. And have proved it by putting power and ground to it on the bench, where it runs fine.
Usually after several clicks it engages and starts right up. But is very annoying as is.
Thanks guys, and suggestions are very welcome.

 

[ToddJK]

My Son's 1952 M135, inherited from my Daddy has been modified to standard shift tranny. Part of that is a different starter motor that is powered by a push button on the dash. When Dad did this he just used a piece of light electric extension cord for the two wires need. We often get a click-click when pushing the button. I have been told that it may be because the wire is too small? So I am going to run new wires. But first I thought someone with more knowledge than me would suggest a more correct wire size?

Funny thing is, this never happened until after we had the starter rebuilt after the Bendix broke. Myself, I think it is a grounding issue because we cleaned and painted everything up real nice before putting the starter back on. If I take a screw driver and twist it between the starter and bell housing it seems to work better. My next move will be to remove the starter and un-paint everything where they contact. Maybe even add a ground wire.
The folks that rebuilt the starter say it is fine. And have proved it by putting power and ground to it on the bench, where it runs fine.
Usually after several clicks it engages and starts right up. But is very annoying as is.
Thanks guys, and suggestions are very welcome.

Doesn't hurt to check the grounds first. Make sure it has good contact. If the clicking still continues, maybe check the solenoid if that wasn't rebuilt as well. If you're not familiar with the YouTube channel Tactical Repair, he has a video about the starter clicking before it finally starts. Doesn't sound like it's the same problem but the info he has on his channel is endless for deuce and a halfs.

 

[frank8003]

A truck at 69 years old or even 10 years old needs all the grounds removed inspected cleaned and properly re-landed. On a 69 Deuce the ground to frame underneath the generator was my favorite!
Work work work .............
All wire sizes are in the TM's
Collate those wire part numbers in PartTarget to get very specific.

 

[Mullaney]

My Son's 1952 M135, inherited from my Daddy has been modified to standard shift tranny. Part of that is a different starter motor that is powered by a push button on the dash. When Dad did this he just used a piece of light electric extension cord for the two wires need. We often get a click-click when pushing the button. I have been told that it may be because the wire is too small? So I am going to run new wires. But first I thought someone with more knowledge than me would suggest a more correct wire size?

Funny thing is, this never happened until after we had the starter rebuilt after the Bendix broke. Myself, I think it is a grounding issue because we cleaned and painted everything up real nice before putting the starter back on. If I take a screw driver and twist it between the starter and bell housing it seems to work better. My next move will be to remove the starter and un-paint everything where they contact. Maybe even add a ground wire.
The folks that rebuilt the starter say it is fine. And have proved it by putting power and ground to it on the bench, where it runs fine.
Usually after several clicks it engages and starts right up. But is very annoying as is.
Thanks guys, and suggestions are very welcome.

.
Hi Brad,

Ground might definitely be your problem.
A clean place on one of the starter bolts that holds the starter in, then over to the frame with a nice fat "battery cable size wire" would do it.

If you decide to run a new wire to the solenoid, a piece of 14ga (in and out) or a nice piece of two wire should allow you to energize the starter.

-----

Neat that you and your son are working on dad's old truck!

 

[Brad]

I appreciate all the advice. We worked on it for years with Dad and now that he is gone my brothers and I decided to give it to Ben because he is the only veteran of five Grandsons. Dad wanted to restore it to haul veterans in parades and other ceremonies and such. Which we been doing for years now, but it is a chore keeping this truck functioning well and looking good. Thanks again

 

[ToddJK]

I appreciate all the advice. We worked on it for years with Dad and now that he is gone my brothers and I decided to give it to Ben because he is the only veteran of five Grandsons. Dad wanted to restore it to haul veterans in parades and other ceremonies and such. Which we been doing for years now, but it is a chore keeping this truck functioning well and looking good. Thanks again

Now that's is as good enough reason or one of the most bad a$$ reasons to do what y'all are doing. Make that truck the idea of a family get together, all you brothers work on it until she's worthy once more to carry our vets. That's a good thing you guys are doing.

Get yourself some 14 gauge wire, replace those that need replacing, and clean the ground contacts. I'd also recommend some wire strippers/cutters. Sometimes the connections may look slightly corroded, but that wire inside the sleeve may be full of corrosion. That's what happened to my horn on my deuce. I followed the TM's and when I had power but horn didn't work, I bypassed that wire and it worked so I cut the bad wire out, reused the rubber boots/connections since those where clean, I got my horn back in business. Granted I don't need it so much for the dum dums on the road, but the kids love it so I keep it working for them.

 

[Mullaney]

Now that's is as good enough reason or one of the most bad a$$ reasons to do what y'all are doing. Make that truck the idea of a family get together, all you brothers work on it until she's worthy once more to carry our vets. That's a good thing you guys are doing.

Get yourself some 14 gauge wire, replace those that need replacing, and clean the ground contacts. I'd also recommend some wire strippers/cutters. Sometimes the connections may look slightly corroded, but that wire inside the sleeve may be full of corrosion. That's what happened to my horn on my deuce. I followed the TM's and when I had power but horn didn't work, I bypassed that wire and it worked so I cut the bad wire out, reused the rubber boots/connections since those where clean, I got my horn back in business. Granted I don't need it so much for the dum dums on the road, but the kids love it so I keep it working for them.

.
I second that! That really is the best part of these trucks and their public persona.

 

[ToddJK]

.
I second that! That really is the best part of these trucks and their public persona.

For sure!

 

[Brad]

Thanks guys. OK, I have some 24 ga wire and am going to make up the loop to the push button. The wire I am replacing has an in-line fuse. Do I need that? Seems like just another place for a bad contact?

 

[ToddJK]

Thanks guys. OK, I have some 24 ga wire and am going to make up the loop to the push button. The wire I am replacing has an in-line fuse. Do I need that? Seems like just another place for a bad contact?

You should yes, incase of a short, it'll burn the linkable fuse and not the entire wire or have a higher probability of causing a fire. You can cut that fuse out and just patch it in, or buy a new fuse to attach.