Wireing harness question

[THolzknecht]

Question to all i was wondering if this wiring harness from painless wiring will work for my m1028. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-10205/?rtype=10

 

[Warthog]

If you capable of installing a Painless wiring harness, you should be able "fix" the factory wiring system.

What is the problem with yours?

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

The Chevy CUCVs are almost 100% the same as the civilian versions with the exception being the starting circuit (CUCV 24vdc). So, if you can read a schematic and are a pretty good electrician/handyman, you could probably get it to work ASSUMING that you can get one that is made for the diesel version (doubtful).

But the question remains, why do you want to replace the entire wiring harness? Yes, I am familiar with poor connections and broken/chafed wires etc. But I think that with a minimum of effort and a schematic diagram you can chase down all the problems and fix them. The main problem in the inside cab wiring tends to be loose or corroded connectors, dirt or tarnish on connection points, and poor connections to the instrument cluster (with a few open circuits on the instrument cluster circuit film thrown in for good measure).

 

[iamspencer]

not worth it at all
the only thing that would warrant that kit is if your fuse block was missing or melted.

what problems are you having?

 

[Tanner]

Hmmm... my guess is OP got a 'smokin' deal' on a M1028... the smokin' part was the wiring harness.

Harness probably has been butchered & fragged over the years.

'Tanner'

 

[THolzknecht]

well alot of the wires the rubber is cracked and is in a poor state i can post pics this weekend i also had a interesting experiance the other day i went to start my 1028 and i heard a popping sound from the starter soleniod and then i had a fireworks show in my engine compartment i think one of the fusable links went and its basicly severd btw im not very mechanicly inclined so excuse my ignorance

 

[dependable]

The Alternator charging circuits, insterment cluster wiring, 24 volt guage, black out switches all different. Most important, the alternator exiting circuits will not work.

 

[Tanner]

well alot of the wires the rubber is cracked and is in a poor state i can post pics this weekend i also had a interesting experiance the other day i went to start my 1028 and i heard a popping sound from the starter soleniod and then i had a fireworks show in my engine compartment i think one of the fusable links went and its basicly severd btw im not very mechanicly inclined so excuse my ignorance

Hey TH.... nobody is saying anything about ignorance; we all started out less than mechanically inclined & learned along the way!

From your description, it sounds as though the insulation is cracked on the wires?

'Tanner'

 

[Warthog]

Yes, we where not questioning your ignorance, just trying to figure out what was wrong.

A better solution is to buy a underdash wiring harness from a parts truck and reinstall it back to factory. Plug and play.

A fellow SS member has a M1009 that a fire department cut the fusebox out and rigged something up. I am sending him a spare harness from a parts M1009 for him to do the exact same thing.

Simpler and easier to do. You don't have to reinvent the wheel figuring out the Painless harness and how to make everything work.

And it's a whole lot cheaper.

 

[THolzknecht]

thanks for the replies i wasnt acussing anyone of anything. im just here to learn, i am how ever good at following instructions, warthog would you be able to walk me through a diagnoses of the electrical system and the glow plug system ill post some pics tomorrow so you can get a
general idea of whats going on?

 

[Warthog]

Sure, that is what this forum is for.

Weekends are a hit and miss on my replys. The wife usually has other duties for me.

 

[Barrman]

Finding a stock replacement is way better than a painless kit. I had my students do a painless kit on a '67 Camaro. Total mess trying to get all the little stuff connected to the stock factory plugs.

Go with the wiring meant for the truck. I will as soon as some parts show up in the mail on my second 1009 mentioned above.

 

[Warthog]

Barrman is that a hint or what??????

You have to have that M1010 fixed before you will need that harness....LOL

 

[Barrman]

No, just explaining what I am working on and why I am waiting for another harness instead of just starting over. Yes, you are also correct that the 1010 has to be done before I touch the 1009.

 

[THolzknecht]

here are the pics i mentioned before i dont know if this truck has the right glow plug modual
? and to the left of it is the blue wire that burnt up and some other pics i took off the air filter for a better
picture.

 

[dependable]

The glow plug relay shown in picture should work fine, that one should have rubber insulators on mounts and not grounded to firewall. Looks like someone has installed manual glow or messed with it somehow, the two pink wires don't look original. It should be activated by grounding to one of the small conections. The burnt blue wire is a fuseable link. This indicates you have or had a short somewhere. Replace fuseable link with fuseable link wire (available at auto parts store) of same thickness. I reccomend soldering them in once you have the short figured out. Good luck. By the way, the glow plug relay harness is pretty much seperate from main engine and cab harenesses.

 

[THolzknecht]

as far as the glow plug system goes get this i had some starting problems a while back and i asked this diesel mechanic to fix it and he did then he told me that my glow plug module was bad even though it worked fine before that and he did a bypass with out my consent with a push button can you tell me how to undo the bypass? and by the pics can you see any other problems?

 

[dependable]

If the bypass works, use it for now. Remove glow plug card, as it can still fry you plugs if the bypass was done in a certain way. Don't assume your plugs are still good even if new, they can fry quickly with bad card. Personally, I don't mind manual control. I tried to post a more complete answer but my internet is bugging on & off. Use AC-60 plugs. Slower but way more durable than others.

 

[Bunkerbuilder]

Since this thread is about wiring I figured id start from this spot and not start another thread or at least give this a shot before I fire up another new thread.

I need a source for the little harnesses that the rear harness plugs into.

IE the harnesses each have a round female plug that has at least 3-4 spade terminals encapsulated in a rubber connector and then go to the tail lights on the other end.

Would like a NSN for said items or a source for new harnesses if anyone has one.

thanks in advance.

 

[Warthog]

You need to tell us what type of truck it is. Have you tried looking in the parts manual for the NSN?

And since this a thread on dash wiring and not tail light wiring you might want to start a new thread.