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wmo centrifuge and filters?

pigpen60

Active member
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foley/missouri
if your using a centrifuge to clean wmo is there any need to use other filtration? i can see a course filter/sock to get the chunkies when you first get it but wouldnt the cent. get everything else? tried to search for the answer but have no clue how to frase? it. pigpen60
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
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London England
I used to use a centrifuge, it was a lot of faffing arround. I now filter through interchangable sock filters. and the result is filtration down to 1 (one!) micron. is that clean enough or what, And it is a lot less fuss and cheaper to set up. Using this method filters 1000 ltrs. in 10 hors. (unsupervised. (dropping down from one full cbc to another cbc at ground level)). look up oilybits.com all the stuff I use comes from stateside and you are allready there!.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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If I were to do it, I'd filter in the 150 micron region and the run it through the fuge.

Everything is dependant. How dirty the oil is, how many times you run the oil through, how many times you clean the fuge bowl, how big the bowl is, how fast it spins, etc.

The nice thing about a fuge, you don't have to spend money on a lot of filters, you just clean it.
 

Beyond Biodiesel

Active member
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Location
Prescott, AZ
I used to use a centrifuge, it was a lot of faffing arround. I now filter through interchangable sock filters. and the result is filtration down to 1 (one!) micron. is that clean enough or what, And it is a lot less fuss and cheaper to set up. Using this method filters 1000 ltrs. in 10 hors. (unsupervised. (dropping down from one full cbc to another cbc at ground level)). look up oilybits.com all the stuff I use comes from stateside and you are allready there!.
Most of the waste oil based fuel I make is made from WVO, and I thinned it with gasoline, then settled it for a week, then filtered it down to 1-micron with a series of filters. That method worked great for WVO blends.

Then, I started experimenting with WMO through the same setup and method, but the injectors in my 6.2L coked badly, and I found my fuel tank had a lot of fine sediments in it. So, I bought a centrifuge. I found that the centrifuge would remove a large amount of fine sediments after the fuel had passed through a 1-micron bag filter.

So, I think WMO should be centrifuged to avoid trouble; and I agree, if you are going to centrifuge WMO blends, then first filtering the blend through a 150-micron screen, is probably all you will need, but you will most probably need multiple passes through the centrifuge to completely remove the fine sediments.
 

pigpen60

Active member
681
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Location
foley/missouri
so warm it up or add rug and settle, filter and run or fuge it and run. but filtering before fuge is still advised. am i understanding correctly? pigpen60
 

Beyond Biodiesel

Active member
373
37
28
Location
Prescott, AZ
so warm it up or add rug and settle, filter and run or fuge it and run. but filtering before fuge is still advised. am i understanding correctly? pigpen60
After making my own diesel fuel for 7 years, I would not bother with heating any waste oil prior to processing. I find I just add gasoline at 20% to any waste oil. Leave it to settle for at least a week, then pour off the light blend, leaving the thick sediments behind, then filter and/or CF it.
 

pigpen60

Active member
681
127
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Location
foley/missouri
when i worked for a local man. we filtered the vac. pump oil to remove the crap that was the equivalent of blow by in an engine. if we didnt the pump would lockup in the middle of a run. well when we pulled the filter cart to replace the filter we sucked the cart out into a drum replace the filter and refill and reinstal. the oil in the drum was heated and recirculated and once every so often we had to replace the drum due to crap settling out. not saying to heat or not to heat, just an obersvation? pigpen60
 
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