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Working on the M1078 LMTV

mkcoen

mkcoen

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M813rc said:
I didn't think that's what "breaking in" a truck meant.....

You going to make the parade here Friday?

Cheers
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I can't learn to fix it unless I break it first :)

I'm not going to make the Austin parade. I'm hoping to have it fixed in time to do the San Antonio Parade on Saturday. At this point it'll just be a matter of getting the parts sourced. It shouldn't take too much to remove and replace as long I have the parts to do so.
 
mkcoen

mkcoen

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Tinwoodsman said:
I'm in for a barn raising!!
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It's going to be sitting outside until I can get the brake parts removal figured out. I cannot budge the lock ring off the canister. I'm guessing the last person who had it off forgot the part in the TM saying to use "anti-seize" on it.
 
TNriverjet

TNriverjet

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mkcoen said:
It's going to be sitting outside until I can get the brake parts removal figured out. I cannot budge the lock ring off the canister. I'm guessing the last person who had it off forgot the part in the TM saying to use "anti-seize" on it.
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Mark,
Have you tried a bit of heat? Sometimes the hot wrench is the best option for loosening stuck parts. I know we are potentially dealing with rubber seals and such, but it sounds like you may be rebuilding all that anyway... Sometimes judicious application from a small propane torch can help loosen corroded parts. I can recall working on my Chevy 6.2L in OH as a teenager. I had to heat, soak in penetrating oil and bang on everything I took off that truck. I'm thankful I now live in TN instead of the rust belt where I grew up!

On another note, have you been able to devise a temporary shelter for the work space? I've thought of using a small tarp to keep outside work area protected. I'm going to have to pull the driver's front hub soon to check the spider gears for excess backlash.
 
mkcoen

mkcoen

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TNriverjet said:
Mark,
Have you tried a bit of heat? Sometimes the hot wrench is the best option for loosening stuck parts. I know we are potentially dealing with rubber seals and such, but it sounds like you may be rebuilding all that anyway... Sometimes judicious application from a small propane torch can help loosen corroded parts. I can recall working on my Chevy 6.2L in OH as a teenager. I had to heat, soak in penetrating oil and bang on everything I took off that truck. I'm thankful I now live in TN instead of the rust belt where I grew up!

On another note, have you been able to devise a temporary shelter for the work space? I've thought of using a small tarp to keep outside work area protected. I'm going to have to pull the driver's front hub soon to check the spider gears for excess backlash.
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Heat was my next option. We've been getting a fair amount of rain the last couple of days (over 2" today) so I've been putting it off. I'm pretty much done with events for the year so I've got until March to get it fixed :) If I can get them off I can swap one from the trailer onto the truck so I'm able to drive it but it's a matter of getting those stinking lock rings undone. I haven't decided if I'm going to try and rebuild the old one or just look for a replacement.
 
mkcoen

mkcoen

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WOW! You need to start a thread just to showcase all of that [thumbzup]

It's going to be a day or two before I get the chance to work on the brake problem. My wife got rear ended by a hit and run driver last night (idiot thought he could get away in San Antonio traffic at rush hour) so I'm going to have to deal with the insurance companies and getting her pickup fixed. LEO tried to talk her out of even filing a report since there were no major injuries. I insisted so we at least had a report for the insurance companies. Of course he isn't even going to make any effort in contacting the guy who hit her. And he wondered why the guy would split since he has insurance in the computer. Ahh maybe so he didn't have to worry about getting a ticket?
 
mkcoen

mkcoen

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Keith_J came by this afternoon and we finally got things switched out. The trick seemed to be, for mine any way, to remove the wheel and brake drum to be able to get a good angle on whacking the ring with a drift. Keith had a nice 1" square drift compared to my tapered one so put more meat on the ring when hit. Still it took considerable encouraging to get it off. The chamber came off fairly easily after heating it up a bit. We checked for leaks in the driveway but it was getting too late for a road test so I'll be doing that tomorrow.
 

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Andyrv6av8r

Andyrv6av8r

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mkcoen said:
Keith_J came by this afternoon and we finally got things switched out. The trick seemed to be, for mine any way, to remove the wheel and brake drum to be able to get a good angle on whacking the ring with a drift. Keith had a nice 1" square drift compared to my tapered one so put more meat on the ring when hit. Still it took considerable encouraging to get it off. The chamber came off fairly easily after heating it up a bit. We checked for leaks in the driveway but it was getting too late for a road test so I'll be doing that tomorrow.
Click to expand...
What happened to Keith-J? Haven't heard from him in a while?
 
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