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Working On The M561 Gama Goat

mkcoen

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Since the Goat is down until I get the radiator back figured I could do some maintenance. First order of business is an oil change. The 1st picture is the access panel on the bottom of the Goat that you need to remove in order to drain the oil. Thanks to the sandblaster I have a nice layer of sand in the bottom of the engine compartment. The second pic is how thick it was on the access panel. I spent about 1/2 hour pulling all the oil soaked sand I could reach out but I'll leave the panel off until I get the Goat back outside and can flush it with the pressure washer.
 

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mkcoen

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For those of you who've done this, did you remove the air cleaner base to get at the oil filter? The -20 says to see 2-35 for air cleaner removal (in regards to oil change) but mine jumps from 2-34 to 2-36 and I can't seem to find 2-35 to see if they're just talking about the filter and housing or if they take the base off too. I'm kind of leary doing anything around the blower as I really don't want to screw it up but getting the filter canister off with the spring and all seems kind of tough where it's positioned.

Also, I don't have a drain plug in my oil pan. I have a hose with a ball valve then more hose that terminates in a threaded pipe cap. Easy enough to drain the oil, remove cap, position hose in bucket, turn valve and drain. Just wondering if this was a unit modification or a MWO that came down at some point.
 
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BillIdaho

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I do remember the valve replacement instead of the drain plug was on the old Gama Goat website. I think that's where I heard of it (and promptly did it). I would advise strongly to NOT use a cheap chinese valve!
 

m38inmaine

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Lucky, mine just has a plug which is going to be messy. I don't recall removing the lower part of the cleaner as the oil change procedure. I think long skinny arms is the answer.
 

mkcoen

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Lucky, mine just has a plug which is going to be messy. I don't recall removing the lower part of the cleaner as the oil change procedure. I think long skinny arms is the answer.
It was still messy just not as bad as it would have been without the valve. I'm probably going to have to hire someone that's double jointed to put the filter back in. I did get it out and the old gasket (that was tough digging out too) but haven't tried putting it back on yet.
 

quarkz

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If you get a chance, grab some pictures of how the cover comes off of the +24v terminal strip / buss bar that sits below the radiator. This is the junction point of the battery cable, slave cable, & starter cable. Thanks Tony.
 

mkcoen

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If you get a chance, grab some pictures of how the cover comes off of the +24v terminal strip / buss bar that sits below the radiator. This is the junction point of the battery cable, slave cable, & starter cable. Thanks Tony.
Mine is actually on the inside of the left rear fender and the cover is missing. And since I'm not taking the fan shroud or radiator mounting frame out, if there was anything under there I wouldn't be able to see it.
 

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mkcoen

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Today's SNAFU: not enough feeling in my fingertips to get the oil canister bolt started. Seems that some days this effing disease really ticks me off. Now I have to wait until one, or more, friends drops by to see if they can manage what I should be able to but can't. I guess a 20 year old child, that still lived at home, would come in handy about now also.
 

Another Ahab

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Today's SNAFU: not enough feeling in my fingertips to get the oil canister bolt started. Seems that some days this effing disease really ticks me off. Now I have to wait until one, or more, friends drops by to see if they can manage what I should be able to but can't. I guess a 20 year old child, that still lived at home, would come in handy about now also.
I think the old saying is:

- "Watch out what you wish for".
 

combat32

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Here is a picture of the cover, you are looking at the front. It just slides over the top of the buss bar and the bolts that hold it to the panel also hold the cover in place. Most goats I have looked at don't have the cover and after taking this one off a wrecked truck with radiator and all other parts in place I can see why most mechanics never put them back on, big PITA!

You can't really hook anything else to the buss bar with the cover in place, gonna wait on mine till I got the radiator out of mine and get my wiring in this location repaired before I try to put mine on, personally I think you could live without it.
 

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quarkz

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Thanks combat32. Are the studs that the cover mounts to secured to the body, or do you have to put a wrench on the backside of the mounting bolt?
 

combat32

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The bolts pass thru the rear engine compartment panel, and yes you need a wrench on both sides, or a short helper back there.

After working on mine a while I have been considering adopting a child, somewhere in the 9 to 12 year old range who does not like video games. My son's are all grown up and gone.
 

mkcoen

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I forgot to mention that there was no water in the oil when I drained it so if the head is warped it wasn't run long enough afterward to cycle anything through. More than likely we got it shut down in time that it wasn't damaged (fingers crossed). I did do some research for a replacement if needed and found a couple of take out engines in case anyone is looking (missing alts and starters).

http://www.whiteowl.com/ENGINES.html
 

mkcoen

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Keith_J stopped by this afternoon and took all of 30 seconds to get the oil canister back on. With all the spare time he had he went ahead and swapped the fuel filters out as well. Only thing left to do is make sure all the grease points are lubed up well and once the radiator is back in things should be golden.

Oh, and VOTE FOR THE M561 for MV of the month!

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...July-VOTE-HERE
 
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