Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
I'll need to call him next week. While the thermostat NAPA came up with is the same diameter it's too short. The bottom end of the one on the Goat seals another passage and the NAPA one isn't set up for that. Once I get a verifiable part and number I'll post it.
He said the 1st line was just the series number and the "3D" was the serial number. Looks like both of ours have the same number of digits so that should be right. I haven't heard back from him so guess I'll need to follow up tomorrow.
That is the correct one. When talking with Stephen he said the extra bit that blocks the water passage could be because the military specs wanted a variation in the temp ranges. He seemed to think the NAPA thermostat would work fine under normal circumstances. I'll probably go ahead and put that one in while trying to get the correct one for a spare. Here's some side by side photos. The original is on the right. NAPA $6 vs $62 + $19 tax and shipping on the other one. I'll keep looking for an alternative to the original that might be a little cheaper.
That air box tube is driving me nuts though. It's actually pulsing now that it's in the shop. It'll go about 5 seconds with a couple of drips then *BOOM* a short stream of straight coolant. Something is screwed up but I can't figure out what it is or how serious it is.
I posted there and over at DieselStop.com. Maybe between the 2 sites someone will have an idea. By reading some of the sites I'm wondering if the liner seals weren't damaged and it's letting the coolant through somewhere it shouldn't be able to get through. After changing the radiator I really don't like the idea of having to do something more serious.
Unfortunately I think it's going to go a bit beyond the head. If the liners have 0-rings also then there is the issue of pulling them as well. I'm not sure if that can be accomplished without pulling the engine. This is a bit beyond my basic mechanic abilities so I'm going to have to defer to someone with more knowledge. If it is just the head than I can probably handle it. Putting my hands into the guts of the motor and having everything work when I pull them back out might be more luck than skill.
It is a relief to know what the problem is. Unfortunately I'm leaving tomorrow for 10 days so won't even have a chance to think about getting started on it until I get back. I have PM'd another member that is an engine builder to see if he'd be interested in doing it but still couldn't move it to his shop until after the 24th. I really want to do the Ft Hood Rally in October but I think that's going to be cutting it close. I better have it ready to go by Veteran's Day though as I plan on driving it to Austin (about an hour and half drive) while the Mrs. uses the trailer to haul her M37 for the parade.Not sure about the brain surgery part but I am really glad you found the proper diagnoses for a problem that I know has been really bothering you. Now...
I'll give it a shot but as hot as the engine was (melted the solder on the radiator) I'm guessing the O-rings are probably toasted o's.
If it's coming out of the airbox drain it means it has bad liner 0 rings. That's the only way water/coolant can be there, unless there is a crack. Up on the deck there are o rings and fire rings. The aluminum block requires silicone inserts and tubes for the water passages. This is not shown or mentioned in any of the TM's. I went thru **** getting a set from Detroit. They do not supply parts for the engine anymore. The Aluminum 353 was built for one vehicle, the Goat. Those that think or claim they have or will put a cast iron in a Goat are in for a surprise. They are not the same size.
