Would a used 6.2 diesel benefit from being taken down and retorqued?

[TexAndy]

I ask that, because I just got a 92k miles on the odometer m1009. It runs and drives (now).

I had to replace the batts, starter, and starter relay to get it moving, but all told wasn't too expensive. Doghead's lawnmower relay, cheap chinese starter (Gear reduced), and used interstate batts (30 bucks apiece, lady at the counter was nice to me!)

With that said, what I'd really like to do is baby this thing. Turn it into a semi-regular driver. Make it as reliable as possible. Maximize my chances of the engine lasting half a million miles. So would it benefit from taking it apart and doing a complete inspection and retorque of all the internal fasteners?

Aside from the obvious oil changes, filter changes, and transmission and coolant flush type stuff, what else should I do to maximize the longevity of this thing?

I'm planing to continue running stock 31/10.5R15 tires, cruise at 60 mph, let it warm up fully before taking it out, etc...

 

[wheelspinner]

No. If the external testing (compression, blow-by, knocking) etc are fine there is no reason at all to tear into the engine. Now if its its leaking, excessive blow-by etc then a rebuild would be in order. re torqueing can ONLY be done correctly b y first loosening every fastener and then retightening. If you are doing that you should replace the gaskets. And, and, and...

 

[evldoer]

Its really not worth the benefit of all the labor. If you take care of it you should see another 100k out of it. I would however replace the glowplugs.

 

[TexAndy]

Its really not worth the benefit of all the labor. If you take care of it you should see another 100k out of it. I would however replace the glowplugs.

100k before significant blow-by or 100k before likely epic failure?

Thanks for the advice guys. If these engines will get 200k miles before a rebuild, that's really not bad.

 

[Keith_J]

Replace the harmonic balancer/damper if the rubber ring is cracked. I have the puller, also works to reinstall. The big green auto parts store on F-burg road in SA, near the Tip Top Cafe, has new dampers for under $70, let me know next time you are up.

 

[FMJ]

Replace the harmonic balancer/damper if the rubber ring is cracked. I have the puller, also works to reinstall. The big green auto parts store on F-burg road in SA, near the Tip Top Cafe, has new dampers for under $70, let me know next time you are up.

This is the number 1 killer of 6.2's and 6.5's, harmonic balancer. When the rubber insulator dries out bad things happen to the crankshaft, 1 piece turns into 2, or more. . .

 

[Hasdrubal]

You stated you wanted to make it as reliable as possible. But you put a cheap chinese starter on it.

 

[TexAndy]

You stated you wanted to make it as reliable as possible. But you put a cheap chinese starter on it.

DB electrical.

Are the American ones particularly more long-lived? From what I've read, it doesn't sound like it.

I've still got the dead starter it came with. I'll probably get it rebuilt in San Antonio and keep it in the truck as a spare.

 

[TexAndy]

Replace the harmonic balancer/damper if the rubber ring is cracked. I have the puller, also works to reinstall. The big green auto parts store on F-burg road in SA, near the Tip Top Cafe, has new dampers for under $70, let me know next time you are up.

Thanks, I'll do that.

How about timing belt? Is that something that, if it fails on a 6.2, will cause something to catastrophically fail?

Took the 1009 on it's maiden voyage this morning. Filling station, then up on the highway for a few minutes. Checked the hubs after I got home and one was warmer than it should be I think. So I'll probably go ahead and pull all the wheel bearings, repack them, and inspect for possible replacement.

Steering was reasonably tight. No death wobble, either. Brakes worked good.

 

[FMJ]

no belt, chain, would not hurt to change if your ambitious!

 

[Keith_J]

No timing belt, timing chain. Never heard of problems. Yes, the starter can be repaired DIY. Kits are available online from alternator and starter parts warehouse or something like that. You could pay to have it done too.

 

[llong66]

Keith_J, I havent seen starter rebuild kits, Ill have to look into that, thanks! Do you know, if you bought a rebuild kit for our 24v starters and got a dead core, prolly free at my local salvage yard, do the correct parts come with the kits to rebuild it as 24v? I dont know if the coils inside, I believe bonded to the case if I remember the last time I was in one, are different in a 12vs24 volt or not. I wouldnt think those would come in a rebuild kit.

 

[TexAndy]

Keith_J, I havent seen starter rebuild kits, Ill have to look into that, thanks! Do you know, if you bought a rebuild kit for our 24v starters and got a dead core, prolly free at my local salvage yard, do the correct parts come with the kits to rebuild it as 24v? I dont know if the coils inside, I believe bonded to the case if I remember the last time I was in one, are different in a 12vs24 volt or not. I wouldnt think those would come in a rebuild kit.

There's some threads on here about rebuilding them with links to the company that sells them. They have kits for the 12v, and both types of 24V (gear reduced and direct drive). Also individual parts.

 

[Keith_J]

Rotors rarely go bad, same with stator coils. Bearings/bushings and brushes. I have rebuilt solenoid contact points, they can be flipped. The nose cone bushing can be pulled with a 3/8 NPT pipe tap as it is blind. The rest is just simple stuff, did my first in the field, literally. Tailgate of my 1031. Yes, the vise helped.

As long as the commutator is in good shape, the insulation isn't fried and the case isn't cracked, it can be rebuilt. I wouldn't fool with rewinding rotors or stators ( they are fastened to the shell with big screws).