Wrench Type / Size for Load Terminals on MEP-803A

[gatorbob]

Hello -

I've been looking through the Ops TM and Parts TM but don't see much detail about this plastic box wrench for securing the load terminals. I don't have one and it seems the manual just expects you'll have it. Do I need this thing? I can't see any reason unless the metal is easy to damage or something, which I'd like to not learn the hard way.

Curious what everyone else uses.

Thanks

 

[dav5]

I have the wrench and it is a PITA. As Guyfang advised previously you have to cut off part of the handle to make it work. I use a metal wrench. Whether it is plastic or metal it is not safe to use when the generator is running so why would you use a crappy too long plastic wrench?

 

[gatorbob]

I have the wrench and it is a PITA. As Guyfang advised previously you have to cut off part of the handle to make it work. I use a metal wrench. Whether it is plastic or metal it is not safe to use when the generator is running so why would you use a crappy too long plastic wrench?

Ok, I'll just find the right wrench size and go from there. Thanks

 

[Bmxenbrett]

I have the original. It sucks. I use a set of water pump pliers.

 

[Light in the Dark]

How do you intend on using the machine? Are you hard wiring it, or using a removable generator cord? You could always just mount a 50A NEMA locking box onto the side of the machine, and run the wires in to the lugs, and just install them once. No need to even worry about the tool after that!

 

[Light in the Dark]

And the OEM handle is fine, if you like annoying yourself. It tightens extremely well (not efficiently, mind you), and is nonconductive. If you want one for machine completeness sake, I might have an extra available.

 

[gatorbob]

I decided I will mount a receptacle to make it easy. I need a way to disconnect it from the house and connect to a standalone panel I am using to connect in some heaters I am using a load bank. I got a 1 3/8" deep socket that worked well for my temporary cabling today. I am waiting on some cord to arrive to get it the way I want it.

I am okay without the wrench. I appreciate the offer.

Next up is to find a quick disconnect fitting for my cable that goes from the temp panel to the ground bar. I've got the bonding screw installed in the temp panel (like my house) so I won't ever have to connect the generator directly to the ground bar nor re-install the bonding strap.

 

[m32825]

Next up is to find a quick disconnect fitting for my cable that goes from the temp panel to the ground bar. I've got the bonding screw installed in the temp panel (like my house) so I won't ever have to connect the generator directly to the ground bar nor re-install the bonding strap.

Interested to see what you come with for this, I want to do the same thing.

-- Carl

 

[gatorbob]

I am thinking a Cam-Lok style connector is the way to go.

 

[m32825]

Some of those remind me of Dinse twist locks for welding cable. How about using welding cable and a ground clamp to connect to the ground rod?

-- Carl

 

[Bmxenbrett]

Is there a reason why you guy wouldnt want to run the ground through the plug your installing. This should be done for grounding the set with your house anyway.

 

[csheath]

I am thinking a Cam-Lok style connector is the way to go.

I used a straight blade 50 amp RV recepticle (14-50). I think I've seen a 60 amp twist lock but I don't remember the NEMA code for it.

 

[gatorbob]

Some of those remind me of Dinse twist locks for welding cable. How about using welding cable and a ground clamp to connect to the ground rod?

-- Carl

That's even a better idea. Probably save a few bucks too. I am using Type W cable. Thanks

 

[gatorbob]

Is there a reason why you guy wouldnt want to run the ground through the plug your installing. This should be done for grounding the set with your house anyway.

There will be a 4 wire connection from the generator to the inlet on the house or to the temp panel. I am referring to the ground wire from the temporary panel (used only for my DIY load bank) to the temporary ground rod that's only there for the that temp panel.

What I probably did a poor job explaining was I planning to hook up to the house like most people do (or should). 4 wire connection, no ground rod locally, bonding strap removed in the generator. Use the home's grounding system. Only one neutral to ground bonding pointing in the system.

I was braining storming for a way to unplug from the house entirely for load testing and connect to an isolated load center panel that would just feed some heater loads & halogen lights I already have. Since the bonding screw is installed inside of my cheap 100 A panel, I can keep the strap uninstalled within the generator. The problem is now the panel itself needs to be grounded to ground rod. I don't want to have to remove the cover and connect in a ground wire each time I want to use it.

I think a wire with clamps is a good idea. I can probably have a short stub of a copper conductor sticking out of the panel and just clamp on directly to the ground rod itself.

 

[Bmxenbrett]

Yes i kind of figured that your useing another ground rod. Still run it through the plug. Doing it this way theres less chance to forget to plug it in...and you have a spare plug to put on the house side if it ever gets screwed up.

Im all for keeping things the same

 

[gatorbob]

The plug’s ground conductor will already be going from the MEP ground lug to the ground bat in the temp panel. I need another conductor from the panel to the rod. That’s the one the needs to be pluggable or easily removable since the panel isn’t permanently mounted outside.