WTK: MEP803A Tries to crank, won't start

[MSeriesCollector]

Have a MEP 803A that tries to start but something is getting it way, I suspect electrical.

One of the fault lights flashes for a moment after it stops attempting to crank.

I can start the engine by using the solonoid on the starter motor but it still wont start from the front panel rotary switch.

I also notice that a wired magnetic solonoid on the right side of the engine will keep the engine running when the rotary switch at front panel is turned to the run position and the crank switch is pressed, solonoid held and crank switch flipped to run.

It has 2 fresh optima batteries kept up with a 24v battery charger at slave connection.

Is there a troubleshooting guide for the MEP803A ?
Would love to read it if it can be found.

ETA: I attempted to DL the TM Pubs but DL was unsuccessful because of lack of decent DL speed.

A text version would solve this issue, or having the documents emailed.

Thank you very much to the member that emailed the TM Pubs, this in addition to the replies from everyone in this thread saves my bacon.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Guyfang]

Look in the Tec Manual forum here in SS. All the books you need are in there. Download them and read them. Or at least the -24 manual. There is indeed a troubleshooting diagram. Knowing how to properly start it may solve your problem. What position is S10 Dead Crank switch in? If it's not in the run position, the S1 start switch will not start the set. Is the S17 switch pulled out?

Sooner or later a moderater will tell you to put the proper location next to your name.

 

[MSeriesCollector]

S10 is in run position.

S17 is pulled out or I doubt it would have cranked at all, yes?

ETA: The engine started for a slight second and then the no fuel fault indicator lit up and killed the engine.

additional: the fuel tank is full.




Found the TM PUB on this genset just can't DL as my DL speed is insufficient.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?175591-MEP-803A-All-the-TM-s-you-need

 

[jamawieb]

Sounds like you either have no fuel in the tank or the fuel float in the tank is malfunctioning. The no fuel fault will keep you from cranking at the master switch and it will also keep the electric fuel pump from working. Yes it will start with the dead crank switch and manually pulling the cutoff solenoid out but only for a second because the electric fuel pump is not pumping fuel so it starves.

 

[Light in the Dark]

If this is a fuel issue, get to the front of the machine, and start it cranking... simultaneously flip up the battle short after cranking has started and see if it fires up and stays running. If its truly NOT a lack of fuel, but the machine thinking its out of fuel, shes gonna stay running.

 

[Ray70]

You can also try unplugging the white connector on the back of the fault light panel. Unplugging it will actually bypass all the fault safety features.

 

[justicelee26]

When you take the master switch to the prime/run position can you hear the fuel pump running?

 

[Guyfang]

All good info!! You should have your answer now.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,

Go through this thread too.

[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]MEP-802A MEP-803A Filters and Parts[/FONT]

 

[MSeriesCollector]

Thanks Later Mike.

Yas saved me a bloody lot of searching for part numbers.

Ray 70, I did that and it fired right up like a race horse behind the gate at Churchhill downs.

thanks very much to all of yas.

 

[Guyfang]

Now, you need to pull the switch, look to see if the float is gummed up, stuck due to tube, or a broken wire. All easy fixes. Or replace the switch.

 

[Light in the Dark]

There is a fuel level float switch (88-20492) up on the big auction site now. The fuel tank sending unit can be crossed to a generic Dorman (I did that on one machine, as have others... its somewhere here in the forum). Just takes a little creativity in shortening a shaft, and wrapping some excess wires up. Glad to hear its a simple problem though.

 

[Ray70]

You can ohm out the wires on the sensor and if it appears the sensor is showing no fuel, try loosening the large nut on the top of the sensor flange. This will allow you to rotate the float arm slightly left and right to make sure the lower float ( low fuel ) isn't touching the side of the tank drop off, causing it to hang up. The sensor arm is a zig zag shape and the tank has a vertical wall where it drops down. If the float arm isn't pointing straight towards the front of the machine, the float will touch the tank drop off and get stuck.
The sensor is a simple open / closed switch, so you can also unplug the harness and use a jumper wire to test both the aux. fuel and low fuel sensor portions of the fuel sensor module, which is a small box bolted to the side of the machine right next to the tank, with 2 harness coming out, 4 wires in each harness.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Yeah the rotating of the arm is one of those sneaky little tricks that all users want to have in their back pockets. Much easier to play first, before having to take the entire thing out.

 

[Guyfang]

Or putting it back in!

 

[mcii]

well remember these sets want to see oil pressure, just because it starts, DO NOT LET UP OR OFF THE START sequence you have iniated until a few more seconds pass or until you can actually see good OP indicating on the gage.. I have and still do this a hundred times and each time its one more kick in my ass from myself, but I still do it, so it [kicking myself] must not be working.. good luck ...mac/mc