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Yes Im Posting ANOTHER Filter Thread!!

devilman96

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Ok yet another filter thread but this is the end of the road for mine... Due to the numerous threads on the subject and their bouncing back and fourth about methods, ideas and thoughts Im starting a new one rather than trying to pick up in the tail end of something else...

Let me start with a recap... I have been researching and chasing down numbers now for about 10 or so months in regards to putting spin on filters on a deuce... I've spoken to about everyone under the sun in regards to flows, filtration rate, LD design, stock filters, why, whom ,when how and what... Adding a spin on adapter to the current housing was the first line of thought but after considering start up pressures, drain back, etc I decided I wanted a remote filter set up. I also knew about how I wanted to build it but I also wanted to make sure that what I did was an improvement to the trucks life, longevity and over all well being more so that just a easy way for me to spin a filter on and off.

In looking into new filter technology it was a no brainier for me to choose the new class of over the road truck filters, with out getting overly anal and with out quoting number after number I figured out I could very easily improve the trucks stock filtration quality by more than 3 times and extend the filter life more than 10 times...

Shortly afterwards I went looking for a way to put one of these filters to the test on a diesel... It just so happened a newly purchased Kubota gen set which became the test bed for seeing what was possible. Running the gen set 24 hours a day over a few months straight I was able to get some really good oil testing results... Service intervals were recommended at 100 hours... The first oil change was done somewhere around 680-700 hours and lab testing showed even with engine break in happening I still didn't need to change the oil. Next test was 1000 hours later... again testing showed I didn't need to change the oil... The gen set was ran about another 700 hours and parked as it had served it purpose so no other testing was done but being able to go 1000 hours and still be good on oil changes and with 2400 hours on only two oil changes was proof enough for me that I was on the right track.

How to plumb the set up was a question that I wrestled over for a long time... I had considered a lot of options but I had also received a lot of request for design help, kit building and the likes. Over time my focus started to change from how am I going to do my truck? too how am I going to build an affordable kit that anyone would be able to install? That took some thinking, planning, a lot of questions and "what if's" being sent through emails and PM's... I wanted to make sure what I was doing would satisfy the majority but still leave flexibility for the guys whom wanted to go bullet proof and also make sure Joe Deuce weekend mechanic extraordinaire could be just as happy... that took some time...

I have had the remote kit parts done for some time now with a few errors and spoofs here and there. A few weeks ago I asked Bjorn if we would be willing to test a prototype unit for me and he agreed. Up until now I had kept pretty quiet about it because I didn't want anyone bugging him about doing what he is doing, how ever since he was ok with posting it in another thread I will go ahead and start explaining. I know a lot of people have asked me to prototype this but I approached Bjorn on doing this for several reasons... First was I thought it to be unfair for myself to do the testing, its my kit, my work, my doing, of course I am going to be bias. Second... Bjorn is some what opposed to the idea of installing a remote filter kit, he is in no way a supporter of the idea and prefers the school of thought on pre lube and bypass filtration. (im not knocking the benefits of ether method) Third and most importantly... Bjorn is well known in the community for his technical knowledge, ability to collect data, test ideas, evaluate things fully and objectively all while pulling pages out of TM's that mother Mary and the holly ghost themselves couldn't find. Lastly he is great at writing and is good with photo documenting his work...

As I said before I wanted to have something that would make both Mr. Fabricator and Joe Deuce happy so I came up with the idea of having two kits. One is complete with cut down canisters, the other very basic with just the fittings and base. I thought this would allow the fabrication people the option of going with hydraulic hose, AN fittings, SS braded, saving a few $ buy cutting their own canisters and installing the parts how they wanted with out having to spend the extra money on stuff they wouldn't use. On the other side of the coin I really wanted to put emphasis on Joe Deuce because most of our members I've spoken with over the past few months wanted the option of a turn key, drop in, common hand tool type installation... Kinda challenging to meet those requirements as I really like things to be as bullet proof as possible and that usually requires a lot of fab work, even just to do an install... I spent a lot of time getting hose samples and looking at fittings before I made the choices I have... I wanted to make sure the job was a few hours at most... I know that everyone is busy and has tons of stuff to do so this really needed to be fit in on a Saturday afternoon in between mowing the grass and hanging pictures to keep the wife happy type thing wit no trips to the parts store.... and lastly...

I sleep very little as is... I am constantly doing something and am very much a workaholic... I didn't want to produce something that would keep me up at night sweating bullets over failures, bad design, people having issues, etc... If I am going to stake my name on something I needs to be worthy of it!!! Small community, even smaller world, I don't care if people dislike me for being me as a person but I don't want to have the reputation I've seen a few others develop in the community over poor product quality... I kinda like being able to show my face!

Ok.. Down to the kits themselves... First the basic kit...

This kit includes the following parts...

Canister bolt adapters (1) "in" and (1) "out" (pic 2) ether bolt can go into ether canister hole but one is specifically made to be "in flow" and one is specifically made to be "out flow"

1 filter base... These bases are the only compatible bases that I have been able to find being produced in the world (and I have looked high and low) which will fit a LDT's needs and have the proper flow capability with the proper filter size required to run only one filter. This subject has been debated and beat like a dead horse, I don't care what Sir button pusher on the other end of the phone at Baldwin or Wix says while staring at their computer monitor, go buy the parts and please prove me wrong. I would love to find a cheaper source for bases!!!

The kit does not include fittings, canister cutting, hoses, clamps, or filter... This way you can buy the hose type and fitting you want and install them however you want.

The complete kit... This was a challenge to make for a common "hand tool" install in mind.

This kit includes everything needed...

Fasteners.. 3/8 X 1" bolts, flat washers and lock nuts.
Hose (80 inches) enough for several mounting options and locations.
Clamps (4)
Hose retainers (2) for grouping hose together.
Filter base (1)
Lower canister gaskets (2)
fittings, brass (2) 1/2 X 1/2 90's and (2) 1/2 x 3/4 90's
Reducers for the base (2) 1 X 3/4
Filter (1) Wix 51792XD
Cut canister bases (2)

To test the install time on this kit (because I am always accused of having it easy with a shop to work in) I pull my truck on the other side of the parking lot out in the sun and walked back and fourth to get everything needed. Granted I knew what I was doing but the total time was 1.25 hours. I would say the average guy could do it in well under 3 hours taking his time and filling in one or two "honey do's" in the process.

Component specifics...

Fasteners... Grade 8 PAI hardware with nylon self locking nuts.
Hose... Weatherhead H20112 250 working and 1000 burst psi ratings
Clamps... Stainless steel marine rated hose clamps (exactly the right length needed)
Hose retainers... #18 T type
Filter base... 1.5 16 tpi cast billet machined
Lower canister gaskets... Wix 15119 (same as the stock gaskets)
Fittings... Forged brass.
Reducers.... Standard pipe thread type
Filter... I am choosing to use the 1792XD version because they offer the best possible engine protection and longest life out of all of the filters available on the market. These things are pricy but offer an incredibly long life as they are rated for 40,000 miles in over the road trucks with synthetic oils and are one of the few filters which are rated for 8 micron. My earlier mentioned testing with this filters showed them to be a amazing improvement in technology and I would not suggest going through the trouble of installing the kit and not using them... Standard filters would be 51792 Wix and Baldwin B99 as well as others. This is a commonly available over the road filter which one can find locally with out problems.

Cut bases... I have received a pile of email and PM's about this because most would prefer not to be left with the task of cutting a 5" diameter tube straight. So I decided that I would offer this service for free with a kit purchase and have devised an exchange program so no one is waiting via shipping to me, me cutting, and shipping back to you. I have purchased a stock of filter canisters to cut down which will ship out with the kits, when you install you kit you send me back you stock cans so that I can cut them down and recycle them in the mix. To afford this option I have worked out tacking on a core charge to cover the cost of buying and shipping in replacement cans. If you wish to retain your stock cans you may do so and forfeit the core charge being returned. In addition to cutting the length I am also machining the top gasket area straight. Being that these cans were stamped out of sheet metal they give a poor sealing area on the top by the bolt head. I am making this straighter and wider giving the gasket and bolt head a full contact area.

Lastly on the kits... I have both kits available with a dual filter base. These are not cheap items to obtain and require a few different fittings than the above listed parts. They are also not small... mounting options are limited to your firewall in front of the driver. I will post more info to anyone that wants and I have a few of these bases in stock but for now I am primarily working with the single kits and when you get the filter in your hands you will know why!!!

The pictures below are of my truck and might be a little deceiving as I don't use a floor mounted high beam switch and I have no room under the hood for mounting anything else. The filter assembly is large but will fit horizontally on the inside of the fender. I personally prefer mounting it as low as possible and outside of the cab as it makes servicing much easier so my suggested location would be horizontally under the cab bolted through the floor (pictured 013). A vertical mount in the wheel well is possible but I don't like to clearance if you do any type of off roading it could be an issue. Mounting it on the fire wall in front of the driver is another possibility but I have power steering and brake hose galore up there on mine.

As for performance, pressure, and start up pressure times... Im tickled to death with what I am seeing but I will leave the numbers to Bjorn to post in his own time.

I know... how much and when? I will not release these until Bjorn has the chance to go over the whole process. I have the parts in stock but do not want to get into a situation of having problems or having to send out revisions. He may come back and nominate me for the 2007 SS idiot award so whom knows.

Another announcement... I am going into the MV parts business. Products such as the filter kits, bypass kits, coolant filter kits, bumper racks, over head consoles, 12V high output add on alternators, wheels (maybe tires) and a lot of the other mods' many have seen done on my truck or someone else's for those whom don't have the time or tooling to do themselves. Where as I will be concentrating on building specialty products for MV's I will be carrying the standard high wear replacement parts, filters, belts, electrical parts, lighting, etc... My goal is to be 100% on line and automated with secure SSL shopping, no goofy order forms, no faxing, no eBay, no calling and being put on hold, no bland lists of parts but real images, product descriptions that make sense, NSN cross references and even aftermarket PN's so if you cant wait on it you can just drive over to Napa and get it, and open 24/7 ...

I am doing this because I wanted to be able to sell my own products but the cost to only selling 15 or twenty specialty items and having a fully functional on line store is not exactly profitable... EBay has become such a nightmare, most of the industries vendors cater to large dealers, local or federal governments, are not on line, don't always make it so easy to get an order into and are horribly over priced. Or have done a great job of carving themselves out a reputation which makes people very leery of buying from them.

It will take another few weeks of working behind the scenes to get things fully functional but I think everyone will be pleased with the offering... and if not.. im gonna starve to death! LOL
 

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alphadeltaromeo

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Quite an excellent write up...you're to be commended here! I'll note one other wonderful improvement that hasn't really been captured in this particular write up: Access to the "hose" on pic 18 has been greatly improved...knowing full well it is still a paint to deal with. I also like the idea you've shared about entering the MV biz...it's an excellent idea and with the quality of product that you'll be producing, etc., we'll all benefit, as you will.

Much appreciated - Andy
 

cranetruck

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You know I'm a man of few words. If I had posted the above it would have been about one paragraph long. :)
Anyway, I wish you success with your store Mike! My little contribution to the filter project will only involve testing. Actually found a new gauge suitable for the testing before he offered a set to test, it's a differential pressure gauge, which will measure the pressure drop cross the filter canister(s).
I havn't installed it yet, been too anxious about the 8x8 work, but it will hang below the dash, below my fuel viscosity meter and tubing will connect to points before and after the filter canisters on the base. Image below.
 

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alphadeltaromeo

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Don't you wish more folk would test various products prior to going out the gate. For example, our new chevy van has less than 200 miles...the brakes are failing on the front (extremely bad shake when braking) and the tranny appears to have issues with slipping out of gear (happened once aldy)...

Anyway, I know that's different, but you're involvement is quite valued Bjorn. Great looking pressure gauge as well.
 

Stretch44875

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Alright! Something else to spend some money on. When you are ready, I'm interested in a basic kit.

Not sure about your filter location. Would rocks or other debris get thrown by the tire against the filter?

Is the filter base a bypass base, or are you using the stock bypass?

Cranetruck, you using the differential gauge to check for dirty filter also? Setting the light for high pressure?

Dennis
 
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cranetruck

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Stretch44875 said:
....
Cranetruck, you using the differential gauge to check for dirty filter also? Setting the light for high pressure?
Dennis
Yes, that was the intended purpose to begin with and it may also come in handy for Mike's project, since his full-flow filter is only a single unit and with smaller micron rating than stock.
His filter is BIG and I'm considering removing the personnel heater temporarily to make place for it since my firewall is already occupied by relays and "junk".

Also the light next to the diff pressure gauge is calibrated to turn on at 15 psi and indicate "filter bypass". The gauge body contains moving magnets and that's why it is suspended below the dash in aluminum. Got the thing on ebay for a fraction of original cost, so I hope it works after installation (testing confirms that it's in order, but one never knows).
 

devilman96

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Alright! Something else to spend some money on. When you are ready, I'm interested in a basic kit.
Good cause I will be sellin my truck for food here shortly!!! LOL

Not sure about your filter location. Would rocks or other debris get thrown by the tire against the filter?
The pic is deceiving, the filter is not in line with the tire and is actually not "in" the wheel well, its set inside about 8 inches off center. As for concern about debris in general, a LOT of over the road trucks are now mounting their filters in the wheel wells and many of the add on kits like Amsoil go in the same places... HOW EVER rather than just saying "no it's fine"... (someone whom know what these filters cost is gonna cry) Take a look at the pics... 22 cal subsonic ammo.... Where I landed multiple rounds with in 1/2" it cracked, on top of each other it penetrated, anything not impacted like that is absolutely fine... I don't think a rock is an issue! Two rocks with the same consistency of lead traveling at 1100 fps... ok maybe... lol

Like I said in my first posting... I like to be able to sleep at night! [thumbzup]

Is the filter base a bypass base, or are you using the stock bypass?
The base is full flow, no bypass... This means the truck is using the stock engine bypasses as intended...
 

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Recovry4x4

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Save me one Mike. You finally broke me. Why am I stupidly thinking about a dual element base?
 

clinto

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Very professional D-Man. I am impressed with your work, and your determination
:ditto:
 

bottleworks

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Stretch44875 said:
Not sure about your filter location. Would rocks or other debris get thrown by the tire against the filter?
You could mount higher if it would make you feel better. Take a look at where I mounted mine. These XD filters are working great. I installed them back at the beginning of February 07. I didn't change the oil when I installed them because I wanted to see how well the filters would clean the oil. It's amazing. Each-time I check the dip stick, that oil keeps getting clearer and clearer! I have aprox 35 hours on the remote filters.
 

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SasquatchSanta

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Concerning Remote Filters and Cold Weather ...

I’m going to talk to several truckers and loggers in the International Falls area to get their first blush reaction to remote filters and cold weather.

From a layman’s standpoint, it stands to reason that an 8 micron filter with say double (or triple) the capacity of the engines oil pump would have an easier time filtering in cold weather and would produce less bypass than a smaller capacity filter. “Maybe” one of the answers is to throw filter capacity at the problem --- just a thought.

Why couldn’t the remote filter/s be placed in the opposite side of the engine directly across from the existing oil canisters? I’ve got all kinds of room on the other side of the engine, in front if the turbo. The hoses could rest over the top of the front valve cover which “might” serve to keep them warm and the filter/s would be on the exhaust (warn) side of the motor as compared to under a wheel well. In the winter I’m able to run with the winter front closed of and the fan off. In the summer I remove the winter front so I don’t “think” heating in the summer would be a problem.

I've also considered wrapping the remote filter with an electric battery blanket and plugging it in with everything else that I have to plug in in January when I shut down.

Devilman --- what are the dimensions of the single filter assembly? also --- what is the filter flow rating?

Thks,
 

devilman96

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Part Number: 51970XD
UPC Number: 765809539709
Principal Application: Extended Drain Version of 51970
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow/By-Pass
Media: Paper
Height: 9.748
Outer Diameter Top: 4.661
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 1 1/2-12
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Beta Ratio: B2=5
Burst Pressure-PSI: 355
Max Flow Rate: 28-30 GPM
Nominal Micro Rating: 5

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 4.320 3.820 0.345


Santa, as you can see... capacity is 28-30 on a single and 56-60 on a dual base (they go up to 4 if anyone is really intent on never changing their oil again)

The OAL is about 14" with base and about 6.5 dia with base to wall clearance.

The remote can be mounted anywhere one would like to stick it, in the cab even if ya wanted... Thing is the filter is HUGE though. If you wanted to go inner fender (engine compartment) you very well could on ether side of the engine but you would have to mount it horizontally... Perfectly ok thing to do! That's the beauty behind a remote, you can pretty much stick it anywhere ya want. I just like to lower fender area due to servicing ease.

I understand the cold aspect... but I also know NOTHING about it... My hose (rated for -40F) would be my only concern for the set up as I have no earthly idea how oil / hose / etc works in negative temps but I would assume with the number of over the road trucks running remote bases (heck don't the M900's also?) if cold and remote were a problem I think they would avoid it like mad. Talking to some of the truck guys in the area would answer questions for you as well as some of us.

Yes I think you will get bypass on start up, yes I think you will take a little longer to warm up, (maybe) but with the thermal properties of oil I don't think temp would be any issue as long as your giving your truck time to warm up as you normally would do in sub temperatures. Then again I am a total DUNCE when it comes to the subject of cold... -40... I would consider shooting someone a act of self defense if they thought of putting me out a door in those temps!!! (then again +40 would get you the same results with me lol)

As for the blanket thing... That could very well be an advantage to the whole set up... Battery warmers? It would be a good fit!
 
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