Zinc Chromate plating at home?

[Dodge man]

Has anyone tried this? I know there are commercial companies that do this but most want a 50 pound minimum and I've had to tear my complete vehicle apart to get 50 pounds of small parts! There are companies (Eastman, etc) that sell kits to do this at home but I'm wondering how well they work and how long their coatings will last. But it sounds like a great idea. It looks great and it might be a life saver for ones of us in Florida and similar places where the heat and humidity rusts steel even if it's been painted.

 

[Jones]

Some of Eastwood's stuff is just spray paints that give the "look" whatever original finish was on a part. Make sure you're getting a true plating process.
You might also look into www.caswellplating.com They sell home kits to do a variety of finishes.

 

[Dodge man]

Yes, I've looked at some Eastwood's stuff and I wasn't impressed. Caswell has a much better reputation but isn't as widely known. I just mentioned Eastwood since they do a lot of advertising and most gearheads know who they are. But I'm interested in hearing of anyone's experience with either of them.

 

[Bill W]

I got my bolts and hardware plated in yellow cadmium at a place in Miami at $1.00 per LB and 50 lb min but that just means if you only bring them 30lbs of bolts then they still charge you for 50lbs. Also I had to strip all the paint off the bolts first, most of which I did on a wire wheel to which I no longer have prints on several of my fingers . Eastmans stuff as mentioned is just paint

 

[Dodge man]

Wow Bill! It looks like you're fixing that engine up for museum display! I've seen an M37 that was all chromated like that (it was probably your's!) and that's what got me looking into this. I thought about sending the stuff out to be done but I really didn't want to tear everything down at once. Re: the finger prints (or lack of!) I found a bunch of stuff about electrolitic rust and paint stripping while researching the zinc chromating. I think it's the best way to go and it would sure save the fingers!

 

[SCSG-G4]

Have you searched for 'parkerizing kits'. I've used them in the past to refinish some old GI parts. Not really hard to do and the zinc phosphate finish lasts well in humid and salty areas.

 

[Dodge man]

Have you searched for 'parkerizing kits'. I've used them in the past to refinish some old GI parts. Not really hard to do and the zinc phosphate finish lasts well in humid and salty areas.

No I haven't Mike. But that's a darned good idea! I live in the rust belt called Florida so I'd like to plate a bunch of stuff to try and protect it but I was concerned about it being too shiny but the 'parkerizing' would cure that. Can you tell me how you go about parkerizing stuff or do you use a kit? If so which one?

 

[SCSG-G4]

Do a Google search for parkerizing kits. It's been 20 years or so since I did mine - on the stove top, in a stainless steel pot. I had some Garand parts that needed a new finish. Depending on the type of final treating and some of the chemicals, you can get a dark gray or a greenish color. Standard way to stop the action of the chemicals is to dip in oil while still hot (180 F).

 

[Recovry4x4]

I've been thinking about parking a bunch of my chains. The process is fairly simple and doesn't affect the base steel.

 

[transman]

Wish I had some salt air up here to blame the rust on ! around here it's just the road salt !

 

[Jones]

Dodge man,

Parkerizing is a low temp (190 to 210 degrees) "passivating" process that can be done at home.
The one I use is Parco-Lubrite #2 by Parker Chemical Co. (Parco-Lubrite may be a Henkel subsidiary by now).
A one quart bottle of the concentrate goes a long, long way. Check to be sure but I seem to remember that the mixture is something like 2oz. chemical to 1 gallon of water.
The only trick I've l;earned ot to use a porcelain-lined pan or pyrex. Otherwise the solution tries to parkerize the pan too which is just a waste of the chemical.
Take the part straight out of the solution and right into the quenching bath as soon as any water droplets have dried off. If the part is wet, it can come out with rust spots.
I've used dirty motor oil, cosmoline, ATF, diesel fuel... Each will give a slightly different shade; from grey to black as well as the WW2 greenish tint.
Leave the part(s) in the quench for 12 to 24 hours as the solution will continue to work and darken even after it's out of the parkerizing bath.

 

[paulfarber]

What post park coating gives the 'wwii green tint'?

 

[Kohburn]

everything I've used from caswell was good

 

[Dodge man]

What post park coating gives the 'wwii green tint'?

From what I've been told they weren't that tint originally but turned that color later due to repeated applications of Cosmoline. I later heard that the color change was due to a chemical reaction bwteen the (IIRC) manganese in the Cosmoline and the parkerizing coating material. I think I remember the same article saying that they had now developed a way to apply a parkerized finish that had that same green color that took years to develop on the guns. I'm not sure but I think I may have read that on Caswell's site.

 

[paulfarber]

I bought a small tub of cosmoline because I heard the same thing... slather it on after part while the parts are still hot.

I'll try it... but I also think, as you said, its a matter of time.

 

[thehaas]

epoxy primer light sand then paint lasts long egual to powder coating paint thats baked above 140 real durable also urethand paints have harner that mix with making harder.look how good epoxy sticks to cement loors done right bullet proof

 

[ascalla]

Where in Miami ?

I got my bolts and hardware plated in yellow cadmium at a place in Miami at $1.00 per LB and 50 lb min but that just means if you only bring them 30lbs of bolts then they still charge you for 50lbs. Also I had to strip all the paint off the bolts first, most of which I did on a wire wheel to which I no longer have prints on several of my fingers . Eastmans stuff as mentioned is just paint

If possible do you remember where in Miami? I am trying to find a place and it seems impossible to find
thanks!

 

[frank8003]

If possible do you remember where in Miami? ....

I have 200 lbs. of stuff to plate. I would like to know "where" but the post was from 6 years ago.
Perhaps a PM to Bill W ?

 

[donnerwetter58]

No I haven't Mike. But that's a darned good idea! I live in the rust belt called Florida so I'd like to plate a bunch of stuff to try and protect it but I was concerned about it being too shiny but the 'parkerizing' would cure that. Can you tell me how you go about parkerizing stuff or do you use a kit? If so which one?

Parkerizing is pretty easy. Do a google search for home recipes. Essentially, you need distilled water, phosphoric acid and manganese dioxide. Manganese dioxide (powder) is cheap and available at pottery shops as it is used as a glaze. Phosphoric acid at 80% can be found reasonably. Use glass or stainless steel pans. Steel wool will age the solution and your first parts will turn out better.
A Coleman stove is a good heat source. Avoid the kitchen stove.
I have 20 gallons of 75% tech grade phosphoric acid and would gladly pay some forward to anyone who could use some.

 

[Bill W]

If possible do you remember where in Miami? I am trying to find a place and it seems impossible to find
thanks!

Dang if I can remember, I had the plating done back in 1997, I will e-mail a friend of mine down there and see if his memory is better than mine.