mudman
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You might need to "Run the Rack".!!
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help with starting without Starting fluid.
- Thread starter crazywelder72
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crazywelder72
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i have been trying to resist the temptation from putting my foot into it. i read a little about the hydrolock and was "afraid". i only touch the pedal when she starts to catch.
I know 5 seconds is a long shot, but it was the only way i could get it going. everything else i have been fixing has gone great, all the lights operated by the 3 lever switch, brake light switch, testing the winch out... just this and the blinkers
I know 5 seconds is a long shot, but it was the only way i could get it going. everything else i have been fixing has gone great, all the lights operated by the 3 lever switch, brake light switch, testing the winch out... just this and the blinkers
crazywelder72
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do you mean just drive it?
KsM715
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With the truck not running, turn the master switch on and check to see if the in-tank pump is running AND pumping fuel to the filters. Could be the fuse or could be a bad hose inside the tank.
crazywelder72
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Yes it does. you can hear the pump in the tank and the geyser we had coming out the bleeder was on the pump alone.
mudman
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Valve adjustments!!
crazywelder72
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how difficult of a job is that? i would hate to undergo a PIA process and risk making it worse than it is. if the valves were out, would it really be able to still run as good as it was?
I wonder if it just has some querks?
I wonder if it just has some querks?
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One thing you WILL find, is that these trucks LIKE to be driven. Problems go away as the miles do also!
crazywelder72
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Well that's good because i plan on driving the **** out of this (at least locally and as long as i can afford to feed her)
Amer-team
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Every truck is different and you have to find the combination on yours. turn on switch, let it set for a few seconds to build up fuel pressure, give it about 1/2 throttle, hit the starter, crank for a few seconds. If it doesn't start. Let it set for 15 or 20 seconds and hit the starter again. It should fire right up. In the first cranking sequence, you build up a bit of heat in the cylinders and the second one adds to the heat and lets it fire. That is without using ether or the cold start switch.
These aren't like the new vehicles where the computer does it all and they fire right up without touching the fuel pedal.
These aren't like the new vehicles where the computer does it all and they fire right up without touching the fuel pedal.
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10 MPG for a 13K truck, isn't bad!
crazywelder72
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i will definitely try that tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time to explain about the sequence. if it dosnt start and i am on to the second attempt at cranking, should i put the foot in the pedal again or not?
crazywelder72
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i would love if this beast got 10mpg, did i mention that i am running the 53's and all 3 axles? i think i may get more like 5-6, but i can hope.
Amer-team
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On mine I hold it at 1/2 pedal. I too was a novice to the system when I got this truck 3 years ago, but once the sequence was figured out, it started down to 20 degrees this winter with no problems and no preheat or ether. You should find a Drivers manual TM for this truck and read the starting sequence. It won't have my tip about crank and then crank again, that is an old Cat skinner trick from back in the day in the woods. And for those of you that are that old, that doesn't count pony motor Cats.
crazywelder72
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i down loaded 4 TM's, ( TM9-2320-209-20-2-1, TM9-2320-209-20P, TM9-2320-209-34P, TM9-2320-361-20) these are maintenance and service. I will try to find the starting sequence in a drivers manual.
kinghomes
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Starting
What is the air temp when you are trying to start.
Use your preheat for 60 seconds, then start for 20 seconds while holding half to quarter acceleration pedal continue with heat until motor smooths out a little.
If no start, repeat above.
If it is below about 25 you may want to hit the either for about two seconds.
But, If you use either I don't know if you can use preheat. I don't combine preheat with either because of risk of explosion or fire.
I have never had to do the flaming rag thing. Would not like the stuff in my motor and I don't need more injuries.
A better source of info is the operation manual. I bet they are posted on this site
I always hold some pedal (half to quarter throttle) when it's a little cold or I know the machine is slow to start.
One thing for sure, diesels love hot batteries; shinny terminals and cable connections and big fat copper conductors.
If you know its going to be cold for a while I think a diesel anti gel additive is good.
I have filled filter cartridges with half anti-gel and half diesel (super cold and had to roll), but never confirmed this with double blind scientific study.
As far as working on the diesel. Your in luck. It's much easier than those crazy gas things.
If you have compression, and your fuel is getting to the cylinders, and your motor is turning over fast enough, the dam thing is going to go. So be careful ! Don't bypass your safety mechanisms. Make sure you are in neutral with the break on. And make sure no one is standing in front of or behind the truck.
Probably good to check the valve adjustment after the first 100,000 miles.
Change the fuel filters? I don't know, annually if your driving 10k+. But if not stretch it out a little. If your tank is rust you may need to chge the fuel filters more often.
Let us know how the truck acts.
Best to Ya
What is the air temp when you are trying to start.
Use your preheat for 60 seconds, then start for 20 seconds while holding half to quarter acceleration pedal continue with heat until motor smooths out a little.
If no start, repeat above.
If it is below about 25 you may want to hit the either for about two seconds.
But, If you use either I don't know if you can use preheat. I don't combine preheat with either because of risk of explosion or fire.
I have never had to do the flaming rag thing. Would not like the stuff in my motor and I don't need more injuries.
A better source of info is the operation manual. I bet they are posted on this site
I always hold some pedal (half to quarter throttle) when it's a little cold or I know the machine is slow to start.
One thing for sure, diesels love hot batteries; shinny terminals and cable connections and big fat copper conductors.
If you know its going to be cold for a while I think a diesel anti gel additive is good.
I have filled filter cartridges with half anti-gel and half diesel (super cold and had to roll), but never confirmed this with double blind scientific study.
As far as working on the diesel. Your in luck. It's much easier than those crazy gas things.
If you have compression, and your fuel is getting to the cylinders, and your motor is turning over fast enough, the dam thing is going to go. So be careful ! Don't bypass your safety mechanisms. Make sure you are in neutral with the break on. And make sure no one is standing in front of or behind the truck.
Probably good to check the valve adjustment after the first 100,000 miles.
Change the fuel filters? I don't know, annually if your driving 10k+. But if not stretch it out a little. If your tank is rust you may need to chge the fuel filters more often.
Let us know how the truck acts.
Best to Ya
crazywelder72
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today it was almost 50˚ out. the plate on the dash says not to run the pre-heat without cranking. as long as it wont hurt anything i will give it a try tomorrow. even tho i am not familiar with hot the preheat functions, i agree that i wouldn't be wise to use it and ether in the same starting sequence.
you don't have to worry about me bypassing anything let alone safety parts. I don't want to hurt anyone or the truck
it's kind of funny that this truck was originally a Air Force truck because i feel like a pilot just trying to start it.
you don't have to worry about me bypassing anything let alone safety parts. I don't want to hurt anyone or the truck
it's kind of funny that this truck was originally a Air Force truck because i feel like a pilot just trying to start it.
Varyag
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I used to have s similar problem. I checked all of my fuel lines and fittings for being loose or having holes (a couple were loose) then replaced my fuel filters. She starts up like a charm to freezing then I just give the cold weather start a slight tap and she fires right up.
Jesse6325
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For what it's worth this is my starting procedure.
Shutdown knob out , min power on, Crank for 8 to 10 seconds.
Shutdown knob in, Main power on peadal to floor, Crank til engine catches and back out of throttle to keep RPM's at 1000 or below.(Usually fires right up)
After engine stabilizes set engine speed at about 900 to 1000 RPM with throttle knob.
Proceed with warm up/Walk around inspection.
Drive!
Shutdown knob out , min power on, Crank for 8 to 10 seconds.
Shutdown knob in, Main power on peadal to floor, Crank til engine catches and back out of throttle to keep RPM's at 1000 or below.(Usually fires right up)
After engine stabilizes set engine speed at about 900 to 1000 RPM with throttle knob.
Proceed with warm up/Walk around inspection.
Drive!
Dr.Jay
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Adjusting the valves (running the rack) is a fairly simple job, accomplished with feeler gauges, and some common hand tools. You will find the procedure in the TM manuals.
Another common problem that can cause your hard start condition is the fuel shut off valve sticking. The valve is located in the injection pump. It is actuated by a small lever attached to the shut down linkage. The lever is spring returned back to the run position.
I have seen many of these shut off valves that are sticking from lack of use.
The lever can be accessed by removing the cover on the LH side of the IP where the shut down linkage is connected. Moving the lever toward the rear of the truck stops fuel flow, forward allows fuel flow to the hydraulic head on top of the IP.
Try moving the lever forward by hand with the access cover removed. It does not travel far, and do not force it. The internal fuel metering valve is bronze. Re-assemble, then attempt t start the truck.
Send me a PM with your e-mail and I can send you pictures when I get to the shop. I you like.
Jay
Another common problem that can cause your hard start condition is the fuel shut off valve sticking. The valve is located in the injection pump. It is actuated by a small lever attached to the shut down linkage. The lever is spring returned back to the run position.
I have seen many of these shut off valves that are sticking from lack of use.
The lever can be accessed by removing the cover on the LH side of the IP where the shut down linkage is connected. Moving the lever toward the rear of the truck stops fuel flow, forward allows fuel flow to the hydraulic head on top of the IP.
Try moving the lever forward by hand with the access cover removed. It does not travel far, and do not force it. The internal fuel metering valve is bronze. Re-assemble, then attempt t start the truck.
Send me a PM with your e-mail and I can send you pictures when I get to the shop. I you like.
Jay