Working on the M37

[mkcoen]

Cleaned the troop seat hardware up a little bit yesterday and then shot it with a good dose of Kroil to loosen them up. At that point I had to install them just to see how they looked and worked - perfect.

Today keith_j cleaned them up with a braided wire wheel and shot on a coat of primer. We'll be painting most of the final parts tomorrow as it's supposed to rain Friday so want to get it in before then.

While we were working in the shop my dad called so I walked outside to talk as the compressor was running. While I was standing there on the phone next to my M101A1 I noticed that the stakes for the side racks on the trailer were the same channel as that on the M37 (I had a small piece that some of the seat parts were still attached to). Already have someone checking to see if they have any laying around that I can fab into stakes for the truck.

Here's a couple shots of the troop seat hardware:

1) pile of rusty bits
2) cleaned, lubed, and on the truck in stowed position
3) open position
4) after wire wheel

 

[Storm 51]

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but the trailer bows and vertical pieces on the M101A1 and the M-37 are NOT the same. I have both restored vehicles sitting side by side in my garage (I would be happy to take pics and post them if you would like).

I only am mentioning this to save you some grief and heartache when you discover that they are NOT the same.

Good Luck; your truck is looking great!

Storm 51

 

[mkcoen]

We're just looking at the channel that forms the stake and then will fab the actual brackets. It may not be the same on an original 101 but on the M101A1 sitting in my driveway the channel, including the cut-in to stop the upright, is exactly like the piece that I took apart to get the seat stop off of. I'm not putting a cover on it so I'm not worried about the bows just the side racks.

Besides, this isn't a Concourse restoration. It's a "gee that looks about right," "motorpool" restoration. If it's not exactly the same it's not really a big deal. If someone wants to come up and tell me it's wrong they have every right to. I also have every right to tell them, politely, to bugger off.

 

[Storm 51]

I wanted mine to be the same bows, stakes and brackets (standardization of parts) but I learned the hard way that it doesn't work. No criticism was implied or intended. If you can make it work for you, that's great.

My truck is a "re-manufactured" truck and trailer. It is not a "show" truck. If it "looks pretty" that is an artifact of the re-manufacturing process (it is a defect; not a feature). Give it a couple of years to "break-in" and it will start to look more normal (it is already getting dusty, dirty and muddy).
After all, I remember how they looked when I was in the Army.

Storm 51

 

[mkcoen]

I wanted mine to be the same bows, stakes and brackets (standardization of parts) but I learned the hard way that it doesn't work. No criticism was implied or intended. If you can make it work for you, that's great.

I have no problem with criticism, especially if it saves me from work, so no offense was taken (the bugger off comment was for people at shows and parades that think they're the smartest people in the room because they saw a picture of a truck somewhere so know exactly how it should be). And not having anything other than scraps that came with the troop seat brackets I have no way of knowing what the C channel was off of other than it had the eye bolt for the cargo strap and the latch to hold the troop seats up (presumably that's what the latch is for and what I was told it was for).

Having measured that piece - 2" x 1.5" C channel - I compared it with the stake on the 101 which is exactly the same size. It could be that the scrap that I have is off a 101 and won't work and has nothing to do with the 37 but we're going to give it a shot. It beats paying $250 for 6 pieces of metal (even if they are NOS).

 

[Keith_J]

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but the trailer bows and vertical pieces on the M101A1 and the M-37 are NOT the same. I have both restored vehicles sitting side by side in my garage (I would be happy to take pics and post them if you would like).

I only am mentioning this to save you some grief and heartache when you discover that they are NOT the same.

Good Luck; your truck is looking great!

Storm 51

Pictures would be excellent. If the difference is just bolting tabs, that can be easily welded onto the 101 stakes. We were looking for the raw material.

Now if the C-channel can be found, we will go with that.

Oh, I left the seat braces out on the pallets in the outdoor painting area. I meant to bring them into the shop...hopefully it won't rain.

 

[Storm 51]

I had all the pieces (except the wood), I just didn't want to make two completely different sets, so I tried to standardize.

Didn't work for me and I've talked to other people who tried the same thing with the same results.

Bow sets (NOS) used to cost about $20 (about 30 years ago). I certainly wouldn't pay $250 either; I'd make something work.

Storm 51

 

[Storm 51]

I'll go take some pics of both the M-37 and M101 parts. You'll be able to see the difference (the M101A1 bows are flatter).

I may not get them posted tonight; it might be tomorrow morning.

Storm 51

 

[Keith_J]

1.5 x 2 box c-channel is standard but no one seems to sell it in small quantities so using the 101 stakes as raw material looks like the best solution.

I'm waiting for the pictures, probably will see them at mkcoen's shop tomorrow.

 

[Storm 51]

Well, here are the pics. I tried to get a tape measure into a couple of them with less than stellar results ( I know Keith likes precision and so do I ) but I can take some more if needed.

I tried to get views of the bows, corners and vertical members. The metal verticals on the M-37 and M101A1 are both approx 16 inches from the bed opening to the top of the channel.

I'll need to post the pics in two batches of 10.

Hope these help.

Storm 51

 

[Storm 51]

I forgot to mention that since I can't label each pic, if you need or want to know which vehicle it is from let me know and I will identify it.

Here are the next 10 pics.

Storm 51

 

[mkcoen]

Thanks for the pics.

My question would be what's the difference in the C channel between the truck and trailer. It appears from the pictures that the trailer might be 1 3/4" while the truck is almost 2"? Since we're not doing the top the bows and corners aren't a concern.

 

[Storm 51]

In the first set of pics, the first 4 pics are of the trailer vertical channel. The last two pics of the first set of pics are the truck vertical channel. They are similar, but not the same. If you are not using bows you might be able to make it work with one channel (use smaller channel and add spacers or shims as necessary below bed level if needed).

Storm 51

 

[mkcoen]

Things moved along again today. Keith got the last 2 tires mounted on the rims while I added the pioneer rack (thanks M813rc) and tore the old driver's seat apart and transferred everything to the new shell the installed the freshly painted troop seat hardware.

Tomorrow we'll get the rear wheel cylinders finished, put the windshields back in the frame (added the new rubber last week) and hopefully get started on the wiring. I love it when a plan comes together.


Pics:

1) Pioneer rack installed
2) Seat back together
3) Finally on 4 tires again

 

[Storm 51]

Looking great and seems like it is going fast!

Storm 51

 

[Keith_J]

16 inch M37 tires are a LOT easier to mount than 20" M35s. By far, I can lift the rim with a single arm and the tire is easily pushed with one hand while the other hand is aligning the valve stem with the hole in the rim.

BUT the boot flap on the M37s is harder, especially when it has been rolled up for 40 years. I tried slipping it over the rim for a few minutes to relax the twists.

We didn't use a tire inflation cage, using a long ratcheting strap to wrap the tire-wheel together so if the split flange blew, it wouldn't fly. The strap is threaded through the rim's windows. First one was wrapped a bit too tight and was difficult to remove.

For inflation, a clip on chuck with a regulator set to 45 PSI did the trick. Three hoses were connected so inflation could be done outside to prevent ruptured ear drums in case of explosion.

Yes, split flange rims can be dangerous. Mitigate the risk by remote inflation for the first time.

 

[mkcoen]

Brakes are done except for adapting a filter on master cylinder. Put in a couple of new batteries. Fuel filler neck and inside bed cover for same installed. Right windshield and passenger seat back in. Last but not least was the heater installation with new hoses. It works on low speed but not high. Oh well, this is Texas.

 

[Tuko]

no welting for the rear fenders?

 

[Keith_J]

no welting for the rear fenders?

Right side is done, the left and fronts need welting/rubber attached, each about 30 minutes. The bolts attaching the outer fender to the bed side need trimming, that takes well over an hour. Minor paint touch ups and the gas tank cap. We have a cup of pre-mixed paint on hand and a half quart unmixed.

I did a bit of brush touch ups with the mixed paint, it covers well over primer and brush strokes flow out well, once dry these touch-ups are invisible.

The end is near.

 

[mkcoen]

no welting for the rear fenders?

The gap between the fender and bedside panel on the left rear is because it's still loose waiting for the welting.

Of course we may have jumped the gun putting the heater back on because we didn't do the left engine cover rubber yet. Oops.