What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[donalloy1]

Installed new Brake Pads and rotated Tires. Had a cracked Pad on left front inboard? No wonder she was squeeling when applied. Wonder if original from GM? Odometer shows 22k and change.

 

[jhyatt7]

New Desert paint job, giving a WWII vet a ride in a parade.

 

[Durango_USMC]

New CDR valve is installed. A couple old nasty sceptre mfc cans are finally completely clean and fuel worthy (never trusted a military fuel guage. Cut the old USGI lock off the chain, locked a spare tire to the cargo tiedown in the bed. Getting a road kit assembled (4way, jack, some fluids, recovery stuff, etc...). King pin rebuild starts wednesday ready, or not. Continued lubing everything, may sound stupid but Im trying to find a zerk for the U joints....

 

[zaxcucv]

Motor mounts, fuel pump, some suspension bushings. Ordered ORD Front Upper Shackle Hangers, new Rare Electrical spare alternator after Gen 1 light/voltmeter showed overcharging. I searched here for info about Rare, but couldn't find any...hope that wasn't a mistake. I figured I will rebuild mine and carry a spare from now on.

 

[stationjj]

I also bought a Rare Electric Alternator as a spare. I couldn't find any info myself. I read about the isolated ground issues with a Wilson rebuild. I hope they aren't the same?
Thanks for any input on Rare.

 

[jhyatt7]

New paint on the Hound

 

[jhyatt7]

Before and after

 

[twlinks]

Nice job...looks great

 

[Castle Bravo]

Replaced the starter. A bit harder than I remember, since the last time I did it, the truck was up on a garage lift. I had to put a bottle jack under the frame to lift it up on the suspension to get enough clearance to get the starter out from between the frame and front axle. I did this in lieu of removing the front drive shaft.

 

[CUCVSRK]

I replaced the starter but never took out the driveshaft put it on a lift or used a jack didn't give me too much trouble but it was a PITA

 

[Castle Bravo]

I replaced the starter but never took out the driveshaft put it on a lift or used a jack didn't give me too much trouble but it was a PITA

Maybe my front springs are more shot than yours... I tried and tried and tried to get it out before I raised it up.

 

[Mainsail]

I'm not sure where to best put this, but here it is. Something for the fabricators around here. At under $4 I might have to pick up a couple.

http://www.sciplus.com/p/GUARDIAN-ELECTRIC-1224VDC-PULL-SOLENOID_52455

This pull-type continuous-duty solenoid is nominally rated for 24V but works well with 12VDC at 120mA. Measures 1-1/8" square x 1" with a pair of 3/16" quick-disconnect terminals. The plunger is 1-11/16" x 1/4" dia with a slotted cotter pin hole. Working distance is 1-1/4". Has a 116 Ohm coil. Made in the USA by Guardian Electric, part #A420-065454-00.

 

[Keith_J]

I'm not sure where to best put this, but here it is. Something for the fabricators around here. At under $4 I might have to pick up a couple.

http://www.sciplus.com/p/GUARDIAN-ELECTRIC-1224VDC-PULL-SOLENOID_52455

View attachment 431559

Cute but it is just a linear actuator, not a solenoid relay so it cannot be used to replace the weak starter relay.

 

[Dirty1]

I finished up the coolant flush and hose replacement. Picked up a bed full of manure for the garden with another load for tomorrow.

 

[85CUCVtom]

I stripped a load of parts off a friends basket case parts M1009.

I scored me a dash harness with the fusebox, two of the little tail light harnesses, the harness that goes across the rear bumper, the harness that runs from the firewall side of the fuse box to the rear of the vehicle, blackout switches, black plastic cluster bezel and some seatbelts.

 

[Keith_J]

I finally got around to restarting my air conditioning project on my M1031. That would be the 28 volt electric drive compressor and under dash evaporator. Measured and cut all the hoses and bent the compressor-condenser tube (long distance between compressor and condenser). Wired up the compressor, running off the buss block in back of the rear battery. Ran a 150 amp circuit breaker off the positive using #2 wire. Installed the breaker and the 400 amp contactor to the frame. Solidified the evaporator mounting by welding the right side bracket, then painting it to match the CARC interior.

All I need to do is mount the receiver-dryer, mount the aluminum compressor outlet tube to the truck's frame, wire the control system (evaporator-pressure switch-contactor) and seal the system. Evacuate and charge.

Since this is a prototype, I don't know what the optimum charge of R134a will be. Regular automotive systems run at varying speeds, this one will run a 2500-3000 RPM constantly.

 

[85CUCVtom]

Since this is a prototype, I don't know what the optimum charge of R134a will be. Regular automotive systems run at varying speeds, this one will run a 2500-3000 RPM constantly.

Do you have refrigerant guages? If you do, a place to start would be to charge the evaporator coil to 40 degrees.

 

[Keith_J]

Do you have refrigerant guages? If you do, a place to start would be to charge the evaporator coil to 40 degrees.

Yes, I have a set of R134a manifold gauges. 40 F at the evaporator during the hottest weather would be perfect.

The only performance chart I have found for the Sanden SD7H13 is at 28/135 F evaporator/condenser temperatures. So at a lower delta T, the performance should be much better.

I was thinking about recovering the condensate off the evaporator, filtering it and spraying it on the condenser when the trinary switch calls for additional fans to turn on.

 

[85CUCVtom]

I don't know very much regarding automotive air conditioning, I work on commercial refrigeration and heating and cooling. The theory of operation is the same though.

 

[Edelbroke]

Built a taller pedestal and put the sim fire .50 cal from my halftrack on the cucv.