Turbo time! Installing 6.5 turbo

[twomorestrokes]

I've read that it adds 60-70 hp to the 6.2. More would be easily possible with extensive bottom end work, but in stock form the limit for the 6.2 is about 10 psi boost. That being said, I don't see much reason for further performance upgrades in the turbo department.

The trans shifts smoother and the engine runs smoother after the upgrade. Not sure why but I'm not complaining.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Well I finally tried it out on a 100 mile drive up the hilly back roads towing my boat up north. This is where I noticed the best difference. No more trying to gain speed in anticipation of the uphill grades, no more holding the pedal to the floor to reach the summit, and I did not lose speed. Actually, with the trailer on it, the truck really wanted to go at speeds of 60-65 mph. This trip made the conversion worthwhile to me. I may need to tighten the waste gate a little though. Quite a few times it spiked the boost gauge to 12 psi before settling back to 10 which I'm used to, but once on a grade it reached 15 psi. Other than that it worked great. At 65 mph all was well, with 10 psi boost consistently and exhaust temps between 800-900 degrees.

 

[RiceBurnerBrian]

That sounds fantastic! Now I gotta figure out what I want to do first but a turbo conversion is definitely in my future! Thanks for inspiring me to start collecting parts for the conversion!

 

[francisf16]

Nice work! I'm starting my upgrade in Aug. Could you give a parts list that you used on your turbo-master?
Thanks,

 

[twomorestrokes]

Just a couple bucks worth of hardware store stuff. The gold colored cupped washer is from inside the vacuum canister after I cut it apart and I drilled the center hole out to fit over the rod I made. I took it to the store with me and selected a spring that fit into the cup well. I also bought a piece of rod and a coupler and two hex nuts. (I intended to use a Nylock nut but they were out of the size that I needed) At home I used a die to thread both ends of the rod that I cut as well as the end of the existing actuator rod and joined them with the coupler. That's it. Then I slipped the spring over the rod, then the cupped washer and the hex nuts. Once I adjusted the boost limit to where I wanted it, I cut the excess from the end of the rod. Works really well.

 

[albersondh]

Next time you have that turbo off it would be worth the time it takes to port the WG flapper seat/port. The WG valve usualy is 2mm larger OD than the port seat ID (sometimes more), you can easily add 1mm (or more) at the port seat, and smooth the port radius, without comprimising the valve to seat seal. Do it all by hand with a dremal or die-grinders and various bits. This will go a long way in helping to get those boost spikes under control.

Great job getting this done and on the cheap. Im glad its working out well.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Thanks. I'll look into that when it's off.

 

[acesneights1]

I've read that it adds 60-70 hp to the 6.2. More would be easily possible with extensive bottom end work, but in stock form the limit for the 6.2 is about 10 psi boost. That being said, I don't see much reason for further performance upgrades in the turbo department.

The trans shifts smoother and the engine runs smoother after the upgrade. Not sure why but I'm not complaining.

I didn't see anything about headgaskets. I changed mine and used ARP studs. The factory Prinotseal gaskets are garbage.
I run 15 psi with no issues. The bottom end can hold that fine. It's the headgaskets that won't.
Also a side note. Not sure what your frame looks like but mine had an extra brace where the drivers side rear spring hanger is that civvy trucks don't have so the 6.5 LS manifold would not fit. The 6.2 one worked fine. I bent the factory crossover a little to line up and welded a new flange on it that I harvested from the original 6.2 Exhaust.
You'll quickly get tired of the GM4 turbo.
When funds allow an HX35 Holset is on my wish list.
Also a DB2 2831-4911 is a nice upgrade . I am running one turned up.

 

[acesneights1]

If you still have access to that donor truck I highly recommend harvesting the serp belt setup. It all bolts right on. The 95 setup works particularly well.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Good point on the frame brace. However it was easily unbolted and modified by slotting the bolt holes to move it slightly farther within the frame rail to clear the 6.5 manifold. That was easier than changing one end of the crossover and bending it IMO and I really did not want to use the smaller 6.2 manifold. The difference in outlet size is substantial. This is as far as I plan on going as far as turbo upgrades on this truck as I accomplished what I set out to do. Runs a lot better with more towing power and I'm happy with the results. I don't use the truck very much and the main plan at time of purchase was a low dollar wood hauler that could tow my boat twice a summer. I've already put way more money into it than I wanted with the lift, wheels and tires, and now the turbo. I'm more than happy with it now.

 

[acesneights1]

Did you use the short injs to clear the exhaust manifold ?I was able to get the pass side manifold on without jacking the the motor but it was not fun.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Did you use the short injs to clear the exhaust manifold ?I was able to get the pass side manifold on without jacking the the motor but it was not fun.

Nope. With the double gaskets everything cleared but indeed close. I could see how the manifold could be swapped without jacking the engine, but it definitely would have taken a lot of finagling on my truck. A few of the bolts would have had to have been inserted into the manifold and held there somehow prior to sliding it in place as they wouldn't clear the frame rail. I decided to bite the bullet and unhook the mounts to save some frustration.

 

[usmcpatriot]

That looks great, have you thought about getting rid of the coffin FF?

 

[twomorestrokes]

That looks great, have you thought about getting rid of the coffin FF?

Why? It's got very few miles on it and does the job well.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Just hooked my CDR back up as I was tired of getting whiffs of crankcase fumes while driving. This use of extra plumbing materials may look hack but it gets the job done and allowed me to keep the original CDR and bracket in the stock location and reuse the rubber hose to the filler neck.

 

[ajsmith184]

This is a great thread, thanks twomorestrokes..Everything seems completely straight forward and fairly simple. I am confused on the fuel pump though..And pardon me for sounding stupid. Is the injection pump under the manifold not the fuel pump? stock, do our trucks have another pump back in the tank or along the frame? Does the 6.5 pump simply bolt on? Somebody please help me understand this

 

[Dawookie]

The stock fuel pump is attach to the engine on the passenger side near the front. For the turbo you will need to install an electrical pump near the fuel tank. The reason is becasue it pushes rather than pulls like the stock pump does.

 

[ajsmith184]

The stock fuel pump is attach to the engine on the passenger side near the front. For the turbo you will need to install an electrical pump near the fuel tank. The reason is becasue it pushes rather than pulls like the stock pump does.

Ok that makes sense. did you run completely new fuel lines when doing this? Any chance you have any pictures? Thanks for the responses thus far.

 

[richingalveston]

the stock fuel pump has to be removed to allow for the oil return line from the turbo to drain back to the motor through the block off plate that must be used where the stock fuel pump was removed.
I have seen the pump stay in place and the oil pan was modified by adding a welded on fitting that the turbo oil return line connects to thus draining the oil back into the pan instead of through the block off plate.

there may be other reasons to remove the stock fuel pump but from what I have read, the primary reason is to make a place for the turbo oil to return to the pan.

 

[twomorestrokes]

the stock fuel pump has to be removed to allow for the oil return line from the turbo to drain back to the motor through the block off plate that must be used where the stock fuel pump was removed.
I have seen the pump stay in place and the oil pan was modified by adding a welded on fitting that the turbo oil return line connects to thus draining the oil back into the pan instead of through the block off plate.

there may be other reasons to remove the stock fuel pump but from what I have read, the primary reason is to make a place for the turbo oil to return to the pan.

True. Many folks retain the mechanical lift pump and braize a tube to the pan for oil return. My used turbo came with the stock electric pump as well as the engine block off/ drain so I went that route to keep things as factory as possible. Best thing about it is there is no chance of vapor lock as the electric pump pushes rather than pulls to no air bubbles appear at the hot spots. Also, priming the system after running out of fuel is a breeze!