Blown solenoid?

[3panther]

So my original 28MT cracked the nose 3 wks ago. I used a Direct Drive Delco model as a replacement and it only lasted a week, couldn't handle the torque. I returned it and ordered a rebuilt Gear Reduction from DB Electrical- looked good and worked for 3 days, then the original starter relay blew. I replaced that with the Doghead relay conversion, cranked it up and the starter continued cranking, even after I pulled the ignition key. Only way I could stop it was to pull the negative terminal on the front battery. Does this indicate that the solenoid is stuck open? I figured when the relay blew, it blew the solenoid.

 

[kabar1]

So my original 28MT cracked the nose 3 wks ago. I used a Direct Drive Delco model as a replacement and it only lasted a week, couldn't handle the torque. I returned it and ordered a rebuilt Gear Reduction from DB Electrical- looked good and worked for 3 days, then the original starter relay blew. I replaced that with the Doghead relay conversion, cranked it up and the starter continued cranking, even after I pulled the ignition key. Only way I could stop it was to pull the negative terminal on the front battery. Does this indicate that the solenoid is stuck open? I figured when the relay blew, it blew the solenoid.

Are you sure the dog head relay is wired correctly? Not insulting just making sure, I would also check the condition if your wires under the dash and to the starter , my power cable to starter caused a similar problem.

 

[Warthog]

You "new" starter may be toast already.

 

[kabar1]

I also had a rebuild shop be kind enough to put a 12 v solenoid on instead of the correct 24 v made a very pretty huge cloud of smoke!

 

[3panther]

Warthog where can I get the best U.S.-made 24V starter?

 

[Hasdrubal]

I used a Direct Drive Delco model as a replacement and it only lasted a week, couldn't handle the torque.

There's something wrong here, perhaps you were given a 12V starter instead. I can assure you that a 27MT can handle the torque. Get an original 27MT direct drive and rebuild it. All they need is new brushes, bushings and a bendix. I do it myself, get 6 years out of it, on second rebuild now. You can probably source one from one of the Steelsoldiers vendors.

From another member ; The CUCV 27MT starter motor is a heavy-duty part, with increased strength pinion and ring gear teeth. The reason GM went to the gear reduction was cost savings and that's it. Not because they were better. Heavy copper wound starters cost BUCKS $$$ You can wind on a Direct drive till the batteries suck into a vacuum and not hurt them. Try that with the GR and you will melt it.

 

[3panther]

Thanks Hasdrubal- I'm putting in a rebuilt Remy GR now- once it starts and runs, I'm selling it- tough to have one of these vehicles as the only one

 

[Hasdrubal]

Mine's been my daily driver since 2004. Apart from the occasional mechanical issue. its been very reliable. Sure have learned a lot about CUCV's.

 

[kabar1]

Thanks Hasdrubal- I'm putting in a rebuilt Remy GR now- once it starts and runs, I'm selling it- tough to have one of these vehicles as the only one

I wouldn't give up yet, I tend to like mine the more I work on it and learn.

 

[3panther]

Third starter was a charm. Reman. Remy GR- after turning the ring gear, it free-wheels momentarily (is this normal?). Hoping that the starter is done for now. Two alternator rebuild kits are waiting. I won't give up yet. I looked for the photo tutorial on alternator rebuild that was posted by CUCV electric & couldn't find it- is there a permanent link w/photos to rebuilding the 27SI anywhere on this site or online? From what I gather the tough part involves some springs. At least it starts and runs well. Thanks guys for your help.

 

[Warthog]

The TM 9-22320-289-34 tech manual has a step-by-step procedure for the alternator rebuild. While it doesn't have pictures it does have diagrams.

Just take pictures as you take each piece off. And when you replace the bearing in the rear case, use some support for the case.

 

[Barrman]

Switching from direct drive to redux to direct drive on the starter brings up another question. Do you have the proper support bracket for each starter? They are different and could be why the original nose cone cracked.