What do I need for a rear axle seal replacement?

[socom688]

Ok guys, I have a busted inner seal on my rearmost rear end. I'm going to order parts to replace all seals on the rear end, so driver and passenger side (figured what the heck while I'm at it
might as well do the whole thing).

so correct me if I am wrong but I will need:
2x shaft gasket
2x lock washer
2x inner seals
2x outer seals
2x cork plugs

is this all correct before I make the purchase? I know I will need to inspect the bearings, and will repackage them if they are good.

thanks!

 

[gimpyrobb]

While in there, check brake lining and have a wheel cyl rebuild kit handy!

 

[Floridianson]

The locking tab ring might be cheap but sometimes they have more than one tab that can be used. Just don't use the same one you bent over.

 

[ATPTac]

While in there, check brake lining and have a wheel cyl rebuild kit handy!

Agreed. While you're in there you might as well either rebuild or replace the wheel cylinder.

Do you have all the tools needed to do the job? Mostly basic standard size tools, but the 3" 8 point socket makes life so much easier.

 

[doghead]

Have you inspected and cleaned your axle vent lately?

I'm not understanding what a busted seal is. Did you physically damage it? Did it fall out? Or, is it simply leaking oil?

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

I'll be doing this soon too.... Both right side seals leaking pretty good

 

[welldigger]

The cork plugs are useless. Just use rtv in the key slot. Or if you do use the cork plugs use rtv with it.

A 3" pvc coupling with about a foot or so of 3" sch. 40 pipe glued to it works wonders for driving those inner seals on.

 

[rtk]

VERY IMPORTANT !!! Don't forget to have a BIG BOWL of WHEATIES before you commence repairs .

 

[steve6x6x6]

The best inner seal driver is the old inner bearing with the cage cut off.

 

[CARNAC]

There is a post/thread about making a seal installer consisting of PVS pipe and a pipe coupling. I posted it but I think the thread might have been started by Heavysteven and is about 3 years old.

Good advice from everyone about doing everything you can while in there. It sure help me having Heavysteven doing mine.

 

[welldigger]

There is a post/thread about making a seal installer consisting of PVS pipe and a pipe coupling. I posted it but I think the thread might have been started by Heavysteven and is about 3 years old.

Good advice from everyone about doing everything you can while in there. It sure help me having Heavysteven doing mine.

I can't remember the title of that thread but thats where I got the idea from. Also, if you have/find a piece of 3" pvc pipe with a bell you can use that. The bell is close to the same size as a coupling. In sch. 40 at least. I glued a cap on my tool to give me a striking surface. I can seat a seal in no more than 3 hits. Usually 2.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Do what Welldigger said and ditch the cork pieces. Just use good grey rtv silicone. I did all four of my rears recently and used rtv, no leaks now as of yet. Already put over 1000 miles on the truck since. And as the others said, either have two replacement wheel cylinders on hand, or have rebuild kits. You will almost certainly find at least one wheel cylinder that needs replaced or rebuilt. Go ahead and do all the rear hubs if you have the time. I only had two leaking, but when I pulled them apart I found all of them needed packed and resealed. You most likely don't need new seals, just the cork goes bad. You need almost a pound of grease per hub by the way.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Oh, and you need a case of brake clean per axle if they are as bad as mine were! Brakes don't like grease!

 

[m715mike]

While in there, check brake lining and have a wheel cyl rebuild kit handy!

I had to replace a wheel cylinder on my M35A2 last week and was able to purchase a new one at NAPA (part number UP 4419) for less than $40.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

So if gear oil is coming out from behind the drums and laying in the wheel that's bad seals correct? The cork gaskets are what seal the hub covers.

 

[steve6x6x6]

Gear oil in the wheel bearings means the outer ( flat seal ) seal has failed, if it is the seal or in the keyway slot. The inner hub seal is not designed to keep the oil in the hub but to keep the environment out, that is why it will leak.

 

[Merc1973]

Would the combination of these work for everything needed in a rear axle seal replacement (not counting differential gaskets)?

http://www.bigmikesmotorpool.com/collections/m35a2-parts/products/rear-axle-hub-seal-kit-for-m35a2


http://www.bigmikesmotorpool.com/co...-nut-and-lock-washer-set-pair-for-m35a2-m35a3

 

[sandcobra164]

Those look good. I'm not sure about the outer seal in that kit as I've never used it. All the one's I've used have lines going through the outer seal almost like tick marks on a compass but the length of the rubber from the middle outward. I've still got a few of those and they are New Old Stock still in original packaging. No they are not for sale as they are getting harder to find but they work very well. I second the people who recommended having a few wheel cylinders or rebuild kits on hand. Quick way to tell is a visual inspection of the wheel cylinder. If it's dry, it might be good but go one step further and press the boot on both sides of the wheel cylinder. Any dampness or dripping brake fluid is a no-go and needs to be corrected.

 

[ATPTac]

Those look good. I'm not sure about the outer seal in that kit as I've never used it. All the one's I've used have lines going through the outer seal almost like tick marks on a compass but the length of the rubber from the middle outward. I've still got a few of those and they are New Old Stock still in original packaging. No they are not for sale as they are getting harder to find but they work very well. I second the people who recommended having a few wheel cylinders or rebuild kits on hand. Quick way to tell is a visual inspection of the wheel cylinder. If it's dry, it might be good but go one step further and press the boot on both sides of the wheel cylinder. Any dampness or dripping brake fluid is a no-go and needs to be corrected.

Its actually better to pull the boot back and make sure that way, if you have a cylinder that's starting to leak it might not always have filled the boot up yet. You can use a small pocket screw driver (or something similar) and gently pry to boot back towards the bottom to check for any dampness.

 

[welldigger]

Or just grab it and pull it back. Check both sides of the wheel cylinder.