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Gauges: Tach, temp, and others. Recommendations?

MarcusOReallyus

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I need some gauges! I can't stand not knowing what's going on. I don't want to drop $500 on some fancy gauge cluster, but I'd like to have things looking somewhat uniform.


I know about the TinyTach, and may go that route, but I'd really prefer an analog tach. Auto Meter has a diesel tach that looks interesting. The only downside is that it would force me to buy another tool to measure the engine speed for the initial calibration, which takes the price up a bit.

Will one of you guys please talk me into that? :mrgreen:

Or show me an alternative?


I also want to get a voltmeter for each battery. I haven't decided if I'll leave the stock one as is, and add to it, or replace it. I guess the ideal thing would be a dual voltmeter, sitting next to the stock one. Any thoughts?


Then there's a temp gauge to consider. I'm open to suggestions.


I'll probably put a dual voltmeter next to the existing one, and then the temp gauge and tach in the panel where the radio would live on a civvy truck.


Whatcha tink?
 

tim292stro

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Basics:
  • Road speed
  • Tach
  • Fuel (one for each tank if equipped with multiple)
  • Volts (one for each voltage if 12/24, or dual circuits)
  • Oil pressure
  • Engine cooling water temperature

At a minimum :)

Then go nuts if you have any children or body parts left to sell:

  • Engine oil temperature
  • Transmission temperature
  • Transfer-case temperature
  • Differential temperature (one for each axle)
  • EGT (dual for v-type engine, one per manifold)
  • Cylinder head temperature
  • Alternator ammeter (one for each if equipped with multiple)
  • Turbo speed (if equipped)
  • Intake air temperature
  • Engine air filter restriction
  • Flux capacitor
  • Clock

Might need a new dashboard to fit all of that... :jumpin:

I like the ISSPro stuff - all mechanical/industrial versions.
 
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MarcusOReallyus

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Oh, thanks! I had spaced out the oil pressure. That's a must-have.

I just looked up the ISSPro stuff. 'Spensive!

Too much for me! Nice, but not in the budget.
 
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Recovry4x4

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I'm all for knowing but much against clutter. I see little reason for a tach. With road speed, tire size and gear ratio, it can be calculated. It doesn't vary like engine temp or pressure. Westach is a US gauge mfr that makes one off custom and dual and quad gauges. The current project truck will get a dual volt gauge (dual needles) in place of the factory gauge and another dual next to it with oil pressure and coolant temp. All idiot lights will stay in place and operational and there willbe zero clutter at the dash.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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dual volt gauge (dual needles) in place of the factory gauge

That's what I have been looking for, with no success. Is this being built to your specs? If so, may I ask how much? Not sure I want to know! :mrgreen:

A tach will tell you things that calculations won't, like a TC that is slipping too much.
 

Recovry4x4

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The last time I had one made was probably 15 yrs ago and it was over $100. Not ordered yet as I am far from ready for gauges. Gotcha on calculating converter slip.
 

tim292stro

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Uses:

Basics:
  • Road speed <-- Keeps you from getting speeding tickets, also a trip meter is handy for estimating remaining range
  • Tach <--
    ...A tach will tell you things that calculations won't, like a TC that is slipping too much...
    Or a clutch. For diesels, it'll tell you how close you are to the governor (if you know where it starts cutting fuel). This info combined with a EGT gauge will tell you if you're in the wrong gear (both auto/manual) and lugging the engine (bad). Also this can be had with an Hour meter built-in

  • Fuel (one for each tank if equipped with multiple) <-- keeps you from being on the side of the road with your thumb out - and keeps you from screwing up an injector pump (they don't like being run dry)
  • Volts (one for each voltage if 12/24, or dual circuits) <-- early indicator you lost a belt, or that you are minutes or hours away from having no lights, or no running engine
  • Oil pressure <-- lets you know if you lost a hose (potential fire issue) or your filter is leaking. Running the engine at speed with no pressure will do damage, this can tell you if you need to add oil urgently
  • Engine cooling water temperature <-- water leak (hose, radiator, freeze plug), bad fan motor/relay (if electric)

...

Then go nuts if you have any children or body parts left to sell:

  • Engine oil temperature <-- oil over 200°F will fail faster than oil run at about 185°F this can be due to numbers of issues
  • Transmission temperature <-- can tell you if you're overloading the transmission - especially susceptible if you have an over-drive transmission and you tow.
  • Transfer-case temperature <-- can tell you if you're overloading the transfer case
  • Differential temperature (one for each axle) <-- can tell you if you're overloading the differential
  • EGT (dual for v-type engine, one per manifold) <-- can tell you if you are over fueling your engine for the revs (lugging) Black smoke from a diesel is also a good indicator of this
  • Cylinder head temperature <-- can tell you if you've overloaded the engine and need to give it a break excessive high temperatures over time will char your oil and clog your filter.
  • Alternator ammeter (one for each if equipped with multiple) <-- will tell you if you're overloading the electrical system, or if you're alternator is outputting at all, or if your battery is taking a charge (bad batteries will drop to low amps quickly due to a "surface charge" only)
  • Turbo speed (if equipped) <-- can tell you if you smoked your turbo bearings - low or no power would be an indicator too
  • Intake air temperature <-- fun
  • Engine air filter restriction <-- good for extending service intervals, or shortening them if you ran through a very dusty place and clogged up your air filter
  • Flux capacitor <-- good for going back in time and making sure that Biff doesn't end up with your mom
  • Clock <-- good for telling you how late you are to that meeting, or how early you are for that recovery
...
 
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Barrman

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I went through this when I put a 6.2 in my M715. I already had a full set of Auto Meter gauges on that truck since it was switched over to 12 volts before I got it. MPH, RPM, oil psi, temp, volts, fuel and fuel psi.

I took a complete CUCV dual alternator set up and put it in the M715. (I like the 24 volt starter.) I had the already installed 12 volt volt meter. I just added a CUCV volt meter wired in just like the stock CUCV set up. Now I have a 12 volt and 24 volt display.

You can do the same basic thing on your CUCV. Leave the stock gauge alone and add another 12 volt gauge off the drivers side alternator. If the stock gauge is in the yellow and the add on gauge is showing 14.4 volts. You will know it is the passenger side alternator at fault.

Besides a double pointer set up like Kenny mentioned, I think a volt meter wired into the drivers side will be your fastest, cheapest and easiest way to monitor both alternators.
 

truck1

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Tiny Tach or some other way to monitor RPM's in my opinion is one of the most important upgrades for the 6.2 engine . I installed a Tiny Tach and never looked back. Trying to monitor RPMs by sound is a crap shoot to say the least , and if you want your engine to last, keep the revs below 2400 . I put a gear vendor OD in my 1028, and at 70 mph I am at 2310 RPM's with surplus 37" MTRs . Without the tach there is no way to know for sure . Water temp, and oil pressure gauges are also important, but the Tiny Tach or the equivalent is a must for me.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Not if your torque converter is not locked up, or your clutch is slipping.

Bingo. Calculations only tell you what it SHOULD be. They don't tell you what it IS. TCs and transmissions have been known to slip, and sometimes, just sometimes, automatic transmissions don't shift when they should.


Calculations can tell me what the water temp and oil pressure should be too, but I don't go by calculations on those, either.
 

Recovry4x4

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I would be interested in hearing what formula is used to calculate water temp and oil pressure. Speaking from experience, I can tell with reasonable certainty when my clutch is slipping. As far as converter slip, you got me on that one. I admit it must be an up and coming problem. I searched the site and only got this thread as a hit. My honest opinion on having an arsenal of gauges is that monitoring all of them would be tantamount to texting and driving. Think Eastern flight 401.
 
Does a tiny tach really work by reading the impulse/ pressure spikes off of the IP? Is it a 1/4" or. 6mm transducer for the 6.2? I wonder if it could be adapted to help a stand alone shift controller for a 4L80E trans? I know the controllers are supposed to work well enough off of a TPS, but a tach signal might really help.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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1.Does a tiny tach really work by reading the impulse/ pressure spikes off of the IP? 2.Is it a 1/4" or. 6mm transducer for the 6.2? 3.I wonder if it could be adapted to help a stand alone shift controller for a 4L80E trans? I know the controllers are supposed to work well enough off of a TPS, but a tach signal might really help.

1. Yes, that's my understanding.
2. 1/4".
3. I have no clue!
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Have you looked into Speed Hut? They arnt the cheapest, but they are made in America, they have a GPS speedo w clock, compass, 0-60, 1/4 time, trip meter, they also have diesel tachs, dual and quad gauges. They get alot of good reviews.

http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/

I looked, but they are out of my price range, and they don't have a diesel tach that doesn't require a major effort. I'm looking for something that's pretty much plug-n-play.

So far, that's the TinyTach or the Auto Meter tach.
 
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