Just did the Doghead conversion… but

[roveroverme]

The truck was running before. I got a New Napa relay and wired it like in the conversion thread.
When I reconnect the battery and turn to start the truck all it does is that the lights go dim. the relay clicks , the voltage on the voltmeter drops to yellow.
no turning over of the starter. When I release the key the voltage comes back on. I can hear the relay click. There is voltage going in.
Can I jump the relay from one fat 24v post to the other on the relay? and when I do that shouldn't it turn the starter?

 

[roveroverme]

I unbolted the starter and I put voltage on the plus of the starter and it turns , and it clicks when I put voltage to the starter solenoid.
So I assume the starter is working. The solenoid on the firewall… does it have anything to do with the starter?

 

[Recovry4x4]

Solenoid on the firewall is only for the glow circuit. Any chance of getting a pic of the mod so we can see what you did?

 

[roveroverme]

Solenoid on the firewall is only for the glow circuit. Any chance of getting a pic of the mod so we can see what you did?

Yes, I'll run outside and take a photo.
Be right back

 

[roveroverme]

SO here are some pictures
Not the best so I'll write up the wiring
Black wire on the small left terminal
Purple white stripe wire on the right small terminal
Purple wire stripe, on big left terminal
red on big right terminal

 

[roveroverme]

Now if i bypass the red wire to the purple wire with an ample sized wire, shouldn't that turn the starter?

 

[tmbrown08]

Yes Jumping the red Wire to the Solid Purple Wire will Supply 24v to the Starter Solenoid. If the solenoid is working the starter should turn over.

 

[roveroverme]

I was trying to find some info on what fusible link I fin where and how to test them in the TM , also something about what wires are connected to the jumper panels on the firewall.
I don't know, but the TM really frustrates the heck out of me. I don't ever know what to find in which TM and where. :-/

 

[roveroverme]

So, I've jumped the two terminals and nothing… some click and sparks when I take it back off

 

[tmbrown08]

did you do this with the key on? I believe the key has to be on to do this.

 

[roveroverme]

I found this piece of metal that was sort of kinda connected to the engine block. where was the other side connected to?
I may have a found problem here??? The piece is 4" long so it can't connect too far.

 

[Warthog]

Have you ever had this truck running since you got it? You have so many threads I have lost track of where we are at in the project.

 

[roveroverme]

Have you ever had this truck running since you got it? You have so many threads I have lost track of where we are at in the project.

Any idea where the other side of this ground strap went to? I assume it's a ground strap… melted off at the sides
Yes, she ran just before I changed the starter relay. Ran like a charm actually...

Yeah… I admit I'm kind of omni-present on this forum

 

[roveroverme]

So I replaced that strap. -didn't help
I took out the starter disassembled it cleaned - didn't help

When I turn the Key the lights go out, it clicks , voltage drops, like there is a short or a ground problem
I am getting really frustrated with this, since the truck ran before this
Doghead , can you give me a hint what it could be?

 

[Warthog]

I found this piece of metal that was sort of kinda connected to the engine block. where was the other side connected to?
I may have a found problem here??? The piece is 4" long so it can't connect too far.

My first thought is that it is the noise suppressor that goes between the 24v Positive terminal block and the the Negative terminal block behind the rear battery.
If it is then it is not needed unless you are running the military radios. But I could be wrong. 4" makes it too long.

What type of material is it? Is it braided wire? Is that a rubber covering? Is it flat?

 

[Warthog]

I found this piece of metal that was sort of kinda connected to the engine block. where was the other side connected to?
I may have a found problem here??? The piece is 4" long so it can't connect too far.

My first thought is that it is the noise suppressor that goes between the 24v Positive terminal block and the the Negative terminal block behind the rear battery.
If it is then it is not needed unless you are running the military radios. But I could be wrong. 4" might make it too long.



What type of material is it? Is it braided wire? Is that a rubber covering? Is it flat?

What is the part number for the relay? Just like anything, sometimes parts are bad from the factory.

Nice job on your wiring connections. You did a great job on the shrink tubing. Also from your description it is wired correctly.

 

[cucvrus]

Question? If these factory relays are so bad. Why did they last the entire 30 year stay in the military and only require replacement now? And wouldn't putting a maxi fuse in line with the hot wire complete the same results if and when you were concerned that the relay would fail? Just a question? The replacement relays are only $12.99 and are warranted for life. This is only a question. As I never cut one of these harnesses. I have replaced the relays after they were cranked dead or with low voltage. Remember before the hate mail this is only a question.

 

[Warthog]

Question? If these factory relays are so bad. Why did they last the entire 30 year stay in the military and only require replacement now?

Please do not take this as argumentative.

I know that I have had a couple of the stock relays fail in this manner. Along with many other people. A fellow member posted this picture. I guess you are just a lucky son of a gun to have never had a failure. Yes there are thousands of the originals out there and a few failures. Maybe it is like the current GM ignition switches. Not all of them have failed.

Also there are many ways to "fix" the issue. The DH Relay modification is just one way.

 

[roveroverme]

If the Relay is bad, shouldn't it start when I bypass the two large posts?
I just took this piece out that was between the two posts and was going to ask what it is.
So that isn't a fusible link or so? just a noise surpressor? I'll put it back then

 

[roveroverme]

My relay had a resistor (?) inside what had one connector melted and it was bent upward. Not sure if that could have caused an issue. But it's a 30 year old part.
And a new one is fairly cheap. I have a photo here of what mine looks like (sorry for the dirty fingernails)