MEP-831a Troubleshooting

[DieselAddict]

The low fuel alarm is from a switch secondary to the sending unit. As Dewie points out the first thing is to check K12 and see if its lit up. If it is you'll need to find the source of alarm. Even with K12 pulled in I had AC voltage reading at the gauge. It wouldn't pull in the output relay though so no power at the terminals. The convenience outlet still had power.

It seems that the fuel level sending unit is a common trouble spot.

 

[R Racing]

Thank you Dewie !! I tried the reset push button but none of them light up ? Maybe I didn't depress it long enough? ? The low fuel 1 did light up last week. But reset . I'll check out k12 And report back !! Oh and when the RPM does drop the voltage goes to 0 that that explains that !!!!

 

[R Racing]

The low fuel alarm is from a switch secondary to the sending unit. As Dewie points out the first thing is to check K12 and see if its lit up. If it is you'll need to find the source of alarm. Even with K12 pulled in I had AC voltage reading at the gauge. It wouldn't pull in the output relay though so no power at the terminals. The convenience outlet still had power.

It seems that the fuel level sending unit is a common trouble spot.

Yes I saw there are 2 type sending units.1 for low fuel and the other for tank volume. The low fuel 1 on my gen was unscrewed and all but 1 screw was missing. So maybe that's telling me something.

 

[DieselAddict]

Could be a clue there.

 

[R Racing]

Ok for some odd reason this AM it started up and stayed running ? LOL the governor is hunting bad ! and the exhaust is really sooty but its running and making AC the engine from time to time winds up pretty high with the arm on the magnet ? like its running away. but then it drops back down. I noticed a small oil drip from the injector pump . I'm wondering if it slightly over filled with oil? My MEP-531a units hunt when they are just a tad over filled ?

 

[R Racing]

Ok it's running smoother. But the arm is solid on the magnet. Had to move the knob around to the stop position for it to turn off. So I'm thinking something Is out of adjustment? It's getting there lol

 

[DieselAddict]

I also found that the 831 won't run smoothly if overfilled. I now fill it just till the oil level touches the bottom of the threads. That is about 2/3s up the dipstick.

 

[R Racing]

Any idea why it runs with the arm at speed flat against the magnet?

 

[DieselAddict]

You mean in the shutdown position?

 

[R Racing]

Yes when it is in shut down position it running hard and strong !! It didn't even flinch when I flipped the switch off !

 

[R Racing]

So to add information when the engine was running a good hour and smooth out it was running at speed and the governor arm was flat against the magnet and running strong.RPM sounded higher than my other unit.

 

[DieselAddict]

If the gap is zero with the engine running the vertical rod between the actuator arm and the engine governor needs to be lengthened. To get to a decent starting position adjust the length of the rod with the engine off until the gap between the magnet and the target is about an inch.

 

[R Racing]

I will give that a try thank you !!!!!

 

[cdre]

Hi guys! I'm working over the 831s I picked up from Albany and have 2 that are giving problems. One isn't putting anything out at the terminals on the inverter. Voltage on the governor controller is low at around 110vAC (troubleshooting sheet shows should be showing 170+). I'm guessing the inverter isn't turning on because the generator isn't putting out enough... Likely?

Second trouble unit is putting out voltage but the governor control arm is surging uncontrollably.. That said, it's putting out good voltage - successully driving a 1.5kW heater. Here's the video. Appreciate any help!

https://youtu.be/jOHnDfOtOTw

 

[R Racing]

That's the way mine was this am. I have seen them do that if you have the crank case too full of oil. Or you have air in your fuel system. After a hr of running mine got much smoother and stopped osolating.

 

[cdre]

When you saw that previously did the governor arm move? I should probably disconnect the input cable to isolate it.

 

[R Racing]

Mine flopped around just like yours. After a good hr of running it settled down and the arm stuck to the magnet but didn't hunt anymore. But my RPM was much higher than my other unit.

 

[R Racing]

If the gap is zero with the engine running the vertical rod between the actuator arm and the engine governor needs to be lengthened. To get to a decent starting position adjust the length of the rod with the engine off until the gap between the magnet and the target is about an inch.

Ok I checked mine its between 1/2 and 9/16 inch like my other 1. If I take it to a inch I'll have to shorten the rod. so I'm thinking the gap should be less.

 

[DieselAddict]

Hi guys! I'm working over the 831s I picked up from Albany and have 2 that are giving problems. One isn't putting anything out at the terminals on the inverter. Voltage on the governor controller is low at around 110vAC (troubleshooting sheet shows should be showing 170+). I'm guessing the inverter isn't turning on because the generator isn't putting out enough... Likely?

Second trouble unit is putting out voltage but the governor control arm is surging uncontrollably.. That said, it's putting out good voltage - successully driving a 1.5kW heater. Here's the video. Appreciate any help!

https://youtu.be/jOHnDfOtOTw

Lengthen the rod between the actuator and the engine and see if that helps. Make it about 1/2" longer and try it again.

 

[Dewie38]

The magnet may be mal adjusted, if the magnet is to strong then it will keep pulling in.
The 5/16 gap setting is for a properly adjusted magnet strength that should be factory set and never adjusted.
I believe the magnet pull off weight should be about 5Lbs.
With the actuator rod out of the black lever seat, pull up on the actuator arm with a weight scale.
Diesel has done this on one of his sets.