Injector return hose side by side comparison. Tygon/silicone/Viton etc...

[Chaski]

View attachment 556119So last weekend I had a injector return hose fail. It was less than two years old and it was one of the cloth sheathed 3mm_1/8" "german" style hoses purchased from a vendor on eBay specifically for that use. So I went on McMaster Carr and went nuts ordering different style hoses. All have an "A" rating for diesel fuel, except for the Yellow Tygon fuel hose which is a "B" rating. I wasn't willing to use the tygon because of the lower reaction rating with diesel and it's low temperature rating. The blue stuff is really soft and very expensive fluorosilicone which is rated for very high temperatures but is way too soft for return hose. The green stuff is kinda expensive Viton, and the yellow stuff is inexpensive Tygon fuel hose. I know a bunch of people have run the Tygon with good results, but this firm Viton stuff seems to be the cat's meow. My pull scale maxes out at 16 pounds force, and even with 16 pounds force the 5/16" OD Viton tube would not pull off the injector nipple. So, if anyone wants to give it a whirl one 5' section will work if you are very thrifty with your hose lengths. Measure twice and cut once to make sure you don't short yourself. The part number is 5119K81.








View attachment 556119

 

[NDT]

Thank you for the information. Follow up question, what is the telltale sign of a hose blowing off? Smell, smoke, fuel gauge going down as you watch? I have never had this happen. Also, did you use the little clamps with the Viton?

 

[gringeltaube]

.... what is the telltale sign of a hose blowing off? Smell, smoke, fuel gauge going down as you watch?.......

I'd say smell - long before anything else. But that is with our locally refined, dirty, sulfur-rich diesel fuel...


G.

 

[Chaski]

For me the hose split where it was pushed onto a nipple. The ones on the injectors seem to be fine, but the tube that connects the left bank to the right bank and return is a little larger. That larger hard line nipple was where my hose failed.
Symptoms of failing hoses include Exxon Valdez like action, weeping diesel leaks, air leaks, hard starting after sitting...etc

 

[Skinny]

I've got 3 years on the yellow Tygon which I used on my fuel tank connections. So far no issues and is great when purging air, I can see what is going in and coming out of the tank. I personally would not use it in the engine bay for the heat ratings as discussed. I'm glad another SS member pointed that out to me before installing it on my filters.

Why not go with the standard replacement carbon hose rated for diesel? Seems like 20-30 years is a good life span for them.

 

[panzerwillie]

Where did you get the Viton from
ty

 

[Skinny]

McMaster Carr

 

[panzerwillie]

thnkx

 

[cucvrus]

Last week I changed the nozzles on my M1009 and I went and bought 16 of the GM return line pinch clamps and 8 ft of the GM rubber hose. The hoses I removed were the original ones and they were still in excellent shape. I just did not want to put them back on again. So the clamps were .53 each and the hose was $6. The end caps were .80 each. The whole bill was less then $20. I think that is a fair price for the OEM hose and pinch clamps. If they last 10 years I will think the rest of the truck will be long gone. I want it to last but can not predict the rust of the body. That rust is relentless and never sleeps. I vote for the original hose for cost and longevity. I had a roll of the clear yellow hose that was on the HMMWV's and it was no where to be found when I needed it. So Black rubber won the vote for me.

 

[scottladdy]

I had the exact same issue just happen to me. That special made in Germany hose split on the return tube barb on each side of the front of the engine. Temporary fix was to cut 1/2" off the end of each hose and re-install. Long term will be to go back to the original parts.

Symptoms were diesel smell, engine wet with diesel below and behind the return tube. Dripping fuel on pavement. Pretty serious fire hazard.

 

[Chaski]

So bad news on the viton hose. Yesterday I experienced another hose failure. It was the same place as last time, drivers side where the return hose connects to the crossover pipe from the front drivers side injector. The crossover tube is larger in diameter than the injector return fittings. I'm going to keep the Viton for the injector to injector hoses, but I will be going back to OEM with spring clips for the hose to the crossover line. The viton hose split along its length just like the fancy German stuff. I think the viton would be fine it it wasn't for the large diameter of the fitting on the crossover tube.

Again.... The Viton failed.

Take it easy!

 

[Chaski]

Wanted to follow up to this since it is 2019.

The Viton hoses on the injectors are holding up well. No new failures. The only issue was that one that connected to the larger diameter crossover tube.

 

[Chaski]

Update- It has been 5 years with the viton hoses and everything has held up well.

The only one that failed was the hose that had to be stretched considerably larger to fit on the steel “crossover” return pipe, and that happened years ago.

 

[jcollings]

Last week I changed the nozzles on my M1009 and I went and bought 16 of the GM return line pinch clamps and 8 ft of the GM rubber hose. The hoses I removed were the original ones and they were still in excellent shape. I just did not want to put them back on again. So the clamps were .53 each and the hose was $6. The end caps were .80 each. The whole bill was less then $20. I think that is a fair price for the OEM hose and pinch clamps. If they last 10 years I will think the rest of the truck will be long gone. I want it to last but can not predict the rust of the body. That rust is relentless and never sleeps. I vote for the original hose for cost and longevity. I had a roll of the clear yellow hose that was on the HMMWV's and it was no where to be found when I needed it. So Black rubber won the vote for me.

OK what was hose part number and clamp part number please. My gm parts guy quoted $120 just for hose.

Thank you.

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[cucvrus]

OK what was hose part number and clamp part number please. My gm parts guy quoted $120 just for hose.

Thank you.

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I don't know. But I have return hoses in the GM packaging and know I didn't pay that for it. I will go look and see if I can find a part number.
14066395 gets you one hose packaged. About 10" long
14066301 gets the caps. 10 in the bag. I don't know if that part number is for 10 or just 1. I tend to think 1 and they are just packaged 10 in a bag.
12338007 get the squeeze clamps. They are packaged 5 to a bag. Sure the price of that part number is each. I have enough to last me thru the CUCV era of my life. 2 more M1009's and then the going out of business sale. I hope that helps. But nothing special about the hose. I used GM stuff because a dealer was at 451 Jonestown Road and I live at 523 Jonestown Road. That dealer went out of business during the 2008 GM realignment. I also have a #10 can full of parts fuel lines caps and clamps. Just buy the kit I mentioned and all will go well. https://dieselcare.store/collection...2l-6-5-6-5l-injector-install-installation-kit

 

[jcollings]

The only thing that is bothering me is my truck is a 86.
Looks like oem smooth fuel rubber return lines. The new line are Woven fiber outer In I presume rubber inside.
I'm heard or read people having failures with this new design.
Am I reading wrong?
After the truck is 34 years old with looks to be OEM with no problems why would you change
The design. Just asking. Probably will go with what you recommended with.

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