red
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You might not have the red paint to mark the gear, mine was unpainted. I could see the mark on the gear by looking over the driver side tire, through the vent slots in the wheel well.
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Fuel Issues - No Start
- Thread starter 7Dust
- Start date
Well what do you know? The button and clip fell off. :/
Fished it out and put it back on. Thought I was done breaking stuff but the fuel cut off cable snapped for good measure while I was moving the cover out of the way.
Questions for tonight:
1. WHY??? WHY??? WHY did the clip and button fall off and what can I do to keep it from happening again? Will a new HH help or a new clip for the button or?
2. Is it possible to put the HH on wrong or off a tooth or??? If it can go bad, I'll find the way.
3. This is what I broke, where can I get these parts?
- Fuel shut off cable
- clip for fuel cut off rod
- Hard line for number 2 injector
- soft return line from number 1 injector - need sleeves and ferrules also
Fished it out and put it back on. Thought I was done breaking stuff but the fuel cut off cable snapped for good measure while I was moving the cover out of the way.
Questions for tonight:
1. WHY??? WHY??? WHY did the clip and button fall off and what can I do to keep it from happening again? Will a new HH help or a new clip for the button or?
2. Is it possible to put the HH on wrong or off a tooth or??? If it can go bad, I'll find the way.
3. This is what I broke, where can I get these parts?
- Fuel shut off cable
- clip for fuel cut off rod
- Hard line for number 2 injector
- soft return line from number 1 injector - need sleeves and ferrules also
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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- Cincy Ohio
What year is your deuce? Any spring will wear out given enough time and flexing. I have new Ambac button retaining clips if you want to replace yours, just PM me.
Last edited:
rustystud
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OK, number 1: ClintoGf sells "fuel shutoff" cables in the classifieds. Number 2: ? Number 3: "White Owl" or I forgot the other guy ! He and his wife run a business that specializes in Hercules engines. Anyone remember there names ? Number 4 : "Parker" hydraulic sells the "exact" fittings needed. The ferrule is part of the nut and when you install it the ferrule will snap off at the right amount of torque. If your really interested in getting the right fittings I will look it up for you.Well what do you know? The button and clip fell off. :/
Fished it out and put it back on. Thought I was done breaking stuff but the fuel cut off cable snapped for good measure while I was moving the cover out of the way.
Questions for tonight:
1. WHY??? WHY??? WHY did the clip and button fall off and what can I do to keep it from happening again? Will a new HH help or a new clip for the button or?
2. Is it possible to put the HH on wrong or off a tooth or??? If it can go bad, I'll find the way.
3. This is what I broke, where can I get these parts?
- Fuel shut off cable
- clip for fuel cut off rod
- Hard line for number 2 injector
- soft return line from number 1 injector - need sleeves and ferrules also
1971. PM Sent!
I have located a number 2 injector hard line.
Ive sent a query to ClintoGf for the fuel shut off cable. The old one was always a pain so a new one will be a real treat.
If you could be so kind as to tell me the parts and a source for the soft line from the number 1 injector to the HH (and the fittings), then I should be set!
Jeepsinker
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It is just 1/4" Dot air line and fittings, available at any truck parts supply place. The air line ferrules work too. All of us use these without issue.
Jeepsinker
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You can get it a tooth off, but it is hard to get it wrong. Should go back in just as it came out. It should just fall in.
I think I screwed up. When I pulled the head it didn't come straight up but kind of up and then I had to rotate it just a bit to get it out.
Then, I couldn't resist and I played with the wheel that has the notch in it that the teeth on the head drop into. In my curiosity I might have spun it once trying to figure out how it works.
Dammit.
Then, I couldn't resist and I played with the wheel that has the notch in it that the teeth on the head drop into. In my curiosity I might have spun it once trying to figure out how it works.
Dammit.
welldigger
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Did you spin the gear on the head or did you roll the engine over? Cause if you spun the gear on the hh that's no big deal. Just spin the gear until the red tooth is about right and set it in and see where your at. You might have to do this a couple of times but you will get it.
If you spun the engine over your in for some real fun.
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Look down in the hole that the Hyd head goes in. At the (lets say) 2 O'clock position there will be a gear with a washer on top of it. This is the gear that spins the hyd head(Its called the quill shaft). There should be a notch in that washer so that a gear tooth is exposed. If not you'll need to rotate the motor. I can get a pic if needed.
Thats the gear I was messing with. I was curious why my HH didn't lift STRAIGHT out like everyone says it should.
My HH actually turned a bit and then came out.
I can spend the quill shaft easily both directions by hand. It just seemed weird that if this is what times the HH that it spins so easily.
Is there more stuff broken than just the button falling off the head?
RAYZER
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Yes.
welldigger
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Do you have a diesel injector shop nearby? I know there's a few in Houston. They can rebuild it. Don't know if that would be cheaper than a new one. In my case it was but that's not every case.
RAYZER
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This is the quill shaft gear.
If this gear spins freely in your IP it's time for a new pump or part.
There's a plate with a half moon cutout that's spot welded to the top of the quill gear,if the half moon cutout is not in the right spot when pulling the HH the HH won't come out and if forced the quill shaft can break or the half moon plate welds can break leaving the plate itself to spin freely and
leaving the quill gear with no reference point.Possibly you can find a good takeout IP.
Changing out the IP can be difficult and not for the faint of heart!
I sugest that you do some exstensive study before attempting this.
Good luck.
welldigger
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I agree with everything but the swapping ip part. It's not so much difficult as it is time consuming. Once you get the marks lined up its just a matter of unhooking fuel lines and unbolting the ip.
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Make sure your advance unit is timed BEFORE you pull the IP.
There is a window with 4 bolts holding in place. You can just barley see it in Rayzer's pics. Under that window is a disk that spins. It will have a slot in it, that slot needs to line up to the "spear" that sticks out from the right. You'll know your good when the timing mark on the motor's dampener pulley is lined up to TDC.
At that point I usually loosen the 3 bolts holding the drive gear in place and pull the IP.
There is a window with 4 bolts holding in place. You can just barley see it in Rayzer's pics. Under that window is a disk that spins. It will have a slot in it, that slot needs to line up to the "spear" that sticks out from the right. You'll know your good when the timing mark on the motor's dampener pulley is lined up to TDC.
At that point I usually loosen the 3 bolts holding the drive gear in place and pull the IP.