I Need a Voltmeter Gauge for a CUCV M1009 1985

[cucvrus]

That is not an original gauge. And the original ones did not have numbers. I think they eliminated the numbers so people could not see the rate of charge. They just used red yellow and green to keep it simple. I have a similar gauge and it is always pegged out like you say and I never have any issues with the M1009 it is in. So if it were mine and everything was working I would not worry about it. I have the similar gauge for the past 8 years in my Crown of Thorns M1009 and never had a any adverse conditions caused by it. Others may feel differently. If you had a stock one you could really put it to the test. I did and mine was fine right on the small upper notch of the green.

 

[jawalter]

It looks like a 24V gauge based on the scale. From what you described, the gauge appears to read the dual in-series 12V battery voltage okay before starting. Once the truck is started and the alternators are turning, you appear to have more voltage than the gauge can handle. Disconnect the wires from the back of the gauge and read the voltage across those wires coming out of the dashboard with a multimeter while the truck is running.

 

[marchplumber]

Ok, finally had a spare minute after work and before more work. Pulled screws back out of dash panel and inserted digital multimeter into wiring clip. Fired up truck. Had approx 24.3 volt with engine running and glow plugs cycling...in between cycles would jump to approx 28.9v...after GPs were done and she came off fast idle, I had 29.3volt. Flickered between 29.3 and 29.4volt......So, figure I will install a new twenty-four volt gauge and light off of egaY. I'll let ya know how it turns out.....

 

[82ABNMP]

Question:

The original voltmeter installed in CUCV's is 12v with a resistor to knock down the 24v power source, correct? Then can I use a 24v NOS military voltmeter like ones from Saturn Surplus with the one wire boot connection? If so where can I get a connector to splice into the old 2 wire 12volt gauge? Ideas?

 

[cucvrus]

Not that I am aware of. They are 24 volt voltmeters in the CUCV not 12 volt.

 

[82ABNMP]

You might be able to fix your voltage gage. The gage is actually a 12V voltage gage. On the back of the gage there are 3 threaded studs. A rectagular ceramic resistor connects two of the threaded studs together. The 300 ohm ceramic resistor is part of a voltage divider circuit that reduces 24V to 12V for the gage. This resistor can burn out an go "open". Remove the resistor from the back of the gage and check its resistance with a digital voltmeter. If it is "open", replace it and the gage will probably work again. You can get a new resistor from www.mouser.com (part number 660-MOS5C301J). This resistor is a different shape than the original. You can leave the old "open" rectangular resistor on the back of the gage and install the new 300 ohm resistor in parallel with it. The old rectangular ceramic resistor will act as an insulator to keep the new resistor leads from touching the metal case of the gage.

Jeff

Not trying to argue but this was posted earlier. I am just trying to clarify.

David

 

[marchplumber]

You might be able to fix your voltage gage. The gage is actually a 12V voltage gage. On the back of the gage there are 3 threaded studs. A rectagular ceramic resistor connects two of the threaded studs together. The 300 ohm ceramic resistor is part of a voltage divider circuit that reduces 24V to 12V for the gage. This resistor can burn out an go "open". Remove the resistor from the back of the gage and check its resistance with a digital voltmeter. If it is "open", replace it and the gage will probably work again. You can get a new resistor from www.mouser.com (part number 660-MOS5C301J). This resistor is a different shape than the original. You can leave the old "open" rectangular resistor on the back of the gage and install the new 300 ohm resistor in parallel with it. The old rectangular ceramic resistor will act as an insulator to keep the new resistor leads from touching the metal case of the gage.

Jeff

I was using this thread and post for info on the gauge. I figure mine had been changed out in a prior life time, hence when I tried to do the resistor repair, it didn't work for me. I do believe mine is 24volt. That's what I get at the wiring harness going to the gauge. New gauge should arrive today and I'll let ya know how it turns out.

 

[82ABNMP]

Ok, thanks. However, all the original style CUCV voltmeter gauges I have seen have had the ceramic resistor installed on the 2 posts on the rear of the gauge. If the gauge is 24 volt what's the need for the resistor? (original style gauge) Thus, my question: Is the power source (orange wire) from the pig tail on original style CUCV gauges a 24 volt power source? If it is then can you use a 24 volt military voltmeter...like the ones sold from Saturn Surplus? Or I am confused

 

[cpf240]

Ok, thanks. However, all the original style CUCV voltmeter gauges I have seen have had the ceramic resistor installed on the 2 posts on the rear of the gauge. If the gauge is 24 volt what's the need for the resistor? (original style gauge) Thus, my question: Is the power source (orange wire) from the pig tail on original style CUCV gauges a 24 volt power source? If it is then can you use a 24 volt military voltmeter...like the ones sold from Saturn Surplus? Or I am confused

The original voltmeters are 12v gauges, with a resistor on the back to form a voltage divider circuit to drop the voltage to 12v for the gauge, similar to the way the resistor bank on the firewall works with the glow plugs to provide 12v to the glow plugs.

 

[82ABNMP]

The original voltmeters are 12v gauges, with a resistor on the back to form a voltage divider circuit to drop the voltage to 12v for the gauge, similar to the way the resistor bank on the firewall works with the glow plugs to provide 12v to the glow plugs.

Ok. that's what I am saying. The original gauge is 12v and the resistor drops the supplied power to 12v so the gauge works. Like the 24 volt supply going to the GP resistor bank on the fire wall.

My question is: What's the CUCV voltmeter supply..24 volts? If so then can I use a 24 volt military voltmeter gauge? Like the ones in the Deuce, sold by Saturn Surplus.

 

[cucvrus]

Then why is that i put 24 volt gauges in and just use the 2 wires to hook them up and they work perfectly? I am just asking because I do it all the time. Just use the same 2 wires and the same plug and they work. Same gauges I use on other 24 trucks. No ballast or resistor on the back of the replacement gauges.

 

[82ABNMP]

Then why is that i put 24 volt gauges in and just use the 2 wires to hook them up and they work perfectly? I am just asking because I do it all the time. Just use the same 2 wires and the same plug and they work. Same gauges I use on other 24 trucks. No ballast or resistor on the back of the replacement gauges.

Because the supply to the original CUCV 12v voltmeter gauge is 24 volts... hence you can install a 24 volt gauge. That's the info I was looking for conformation on.

 

[cucvrus]

WOW I am sorry I responded. I am now dumber about this issue then when i started. Why would it be 12 volts before it hits the resistor/ballast and turn into 24 volts? And then if i hook it up directly to the bare wires it is 24 volts again? I will just keep quiet on this subject. i just know that 24 volt replacement gauges work. And that is all I need to know. I hope that helps someone.

 

[82ABNMP]

WOW I am sorry I responded. I am now dumber about this issue then when i started. Why would it be 12 volts before it hits the resistor/ballast and turn into 24 volts? And then if i hook it up directly to the bare wires it is 24 volts again? I will just keep quiet on this subject. i just know that 24 volt replacement gauges work. And that is all I need to know. I hope that helps someone.

I am not trying to offend. Thank you for your response. I think the reason the 24 volt gauges you install work, is because of the power supply being 24v...not that the original gauge is 24 volts.

The fuse for the gauge on the fuse box is 28v. I think.

 

[rsh4364]

Its a 12v gauge supplied with 24v,hence the resistor on back of gauge to reduce to 12v,that way both batts.are still monitored.If you replace with a 24v gauge you will be good.

 

[marchplumber]

Alrighty then, installed the new gauge today between service calls. I "Love" being on "Call",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,not! Oh well. Install went well. Gauge is a 24v gauge off of popular auction site. It even has a light! Which I never had before, so that's a plus. Reads just fine, and that'll ease my mind going down the road.

 

[rsh4364]

Looks good.

 

[CycleJay]

Voltmeter gauge.

Hello,

I need one to.
Do you have a link or part number for this one?

Thanks,

Cj

Stupid IPhone won't let me post a picture... I Just got a new 24v gauge from egauges dot com it's the VDO series. It's a true 24v gauge, I like numbers better than colors. It works great, looks like it belongs there too! Black face, white numbers and orange/ red needle.

 

[CycleJay]

Hi Tony,
When you installed that gauge, did you need to add a resistor? And what's the link to the site? I need a voltmeter gauge to.

Thanks.

Cj

 

[Tinstar]

I also installed a 24v gauge.
No resistor, just plug in and play.
Works perfect!

I never could find an original gauge that was in good shape.

Ebay will have the gauges or any surplus vender that runs ads on this site.