Multi-Fuel Engine won't start - Compression??

[kooldadd]

I never thought about it but, the "T" in the front of the head(hyd head) should have a check valve in it. If not, starting can be problematic. Has it always been trouble to start? Or was it just after you monkeyed with it?

It had no fuel to injectors when I got it. I was trying to "bracket " down the cause by checking how far it got through the system. I pulled an injector line... no fuel. Next was the fuel delivery valve... a.k.a. whoops. Finally pulled the hh and found broken clip and dropped button. Back together... won't start. That's where I stand now. Like I've said though... once started, runs perfectly.

 

[DavidWymore]

Aha! And there's one up on the filter housing too. Sometimes junk gets stuck under the seat and holds them
open. My 70 doesn't start as good as my 62, I checked the one on the filter, but forgot the one at the HH.

 

[Floridianson]

I never thought about it.

So what do you think about? Teacher want's too know.

 

[kooldadd]

Changed the overflow valve. Runs better, but still won't start without help. The spring for the delivery valve looks broken, but it might have been cut to size for hh calibration. Seems that, if it runs fine, it opens the injectors. That would mean the problem is elsewhere.

 

[DavidWymore]

Droop screw?

 

[kooldadd]

Should I just open it up all the way and see if it starts? I'll count the turns in case it doesn't help. If it starts, just back it off til it doesnt?

 

[DavidWymore]

Pretty sure I read that if you open it up too much she can run away and kerboom. 1/4 turn at a time

 

[kooldadd]

But, how will I know the fine line between futility and kaboom?

 

[DavidWymore]

Work up slow. I think you just don't want to go crazy with it too much at once.

I I went a turn and a half I think. 1/4 at a time.

Might be be your issue or might help mask it or might not.

 

[kooldadd]

Can't hurt to try... unless, kaboom, of course

 

[Floridianson]

Droop screw would not affect anything about starting. When the motor is off the fuel control is in full fuel position anyway. The only way this motor will run away is people to lazy to remove two screw's on shut down cover and check for fuel control being free.
You can remove the shutdown cover and check the fuel control and with your finger. As said it should be in 7 o"clock position and move back to 4 0"clock position with light finger pressure but snap back to 7 when you let it go.
You can also start the truck with shut down cover off and if everything is correct you can rev it up or shut it down with you finger.
You could turn up the fuel to the 9 o"clock position and it will not hurt anything as long as it is not driven this way and no load is applied. Sounds like you did not get the new delivery spring or check to see if you lost the inside piece.

 

[kooldadd]

Correct. I did not get the spring. From what I understand, the spring is sized for length and tension when calibrating the hh when building and testing. I could be wrong, but , I would need the length on the old spring. I have part of it that I could match up for tension and diameter. Now, would that be the only thing left that would cause a no start?

 

[Katavic918]

To the question of turning up fuel. Factory setting for the fuel screw is I think 1\8 inch protruding. Mine won't even start warm at that setting. When I got mine the screw was about a half inch out and started\ran fine. So I just leave it there. Just remember that your foot is the final fuel delivery system if you decide to turn it up.

 

[Floridianson]

I am not trying to tune his motor. We are trying to find out why it does not start without help. If the fuel sleeve is riding to low then to much is spilling out the spill port and it does not get as much fuel per shot. We need to know if the spring has been damaged / rusted out as he said he thought it was in two pieces. Yes if the sleeve rides to low it might cause a hard start. If we can just get it to start without help then he should install a pyro and we can tune to the max.
As I said he could bottom out the fuel wedge for a test and make the sleeve ride as high as possible for the test and then back it off. Not drive with it like that. Going by the amount of threads showing is not the correct way to tune.

 

[kooldadd]

WOOHOO!!!!!!! went ace and got a 55 cent spring... installed in fuel delivery valve STARTS ON IT'S OWN NOW. That put me at 2k for the truck, 1.02 for the hh clip, 45.00 for the overflow tee I probably didn't need, and 55 cents for the spring. I'm into this truck for 2046.57. Tagging it monday. Thank you, everyone, for the advice and assistance. I have never worked on anything diesel before and whipped this bitch's ass. Air pack was also fixed with no part cost.

 

[71DeuceAK]

Congrats! Gonna be a daily driver now?

 

[DavidWymore]

WOOHOO!!!!!!! went ace and got a 55 cent spring... installed in fuel delivery valve STARTS ON IT'S OWN NOW. That put me at 2k for the truck, 1.02 for the hh clip, 45.00 for the overflow tee I probably didn't need, and 55 cents for the spring. I'm into this truck for 2046.57. Tagging it monday. Thank you, everyone, for the advice and assistance. I have never worked on anything diesel before and whipped this bitch's ass. Air pack was also fixed with no part cost.

WHOOP!

Congrats! I know how you feel. I've been wanting a deuce since being around my dad's '53 (he called it a 6-by) as a kid. I was stoked when I got my '62 beater running, and when I got my '70 on the road. Can't wait to get a trans built for it and get it back on the road.

 

[kooldadd]

False joy on the air pack. Not working. Found one for 409. Need it going by next weekend, so I don't have time to try a rebuild and scramble for a unit if rebuild doesn't work.

 

[kooldadd]

But, yes, it will be tagged and driven. I'll be putting my 85 wagoneer in the bed and trailering one of my commandos behind it for trips to the woods and camping. Main reason for getting the deuce was because I have 4 jeeps to move around. 97 wrangler is tagged and driven, but if I break something, I need to be able to cart it home.

 

[M543A2]

Good advice for anyone working with fuel systems in ways that might cause a run-away is to have the intake hose off the turbo and an assistant ready with a piece of sheet metal to quickly cover the turbo intake to shut it down by shutting off the air supply if it tries to run away. This has saved motors for us several times. The Detroit Diesel two strokes are very nice in that they have an air shut-off shutter valve in the intake elbow that can be activated to shut off the air supply, shutting them down in case of emergency. The owner just has to be sure to check its operation as a PM check to be sure it works if needed. This has saved an 8V-71 for us once.
Regards Martin